Osram H7 65w bulbs

[KuroNekko]

Out of curiosity, can you direct me to the type of capacitors that you are using for your LED kit.
I have a small surge issue (high load, etc) and my led kit looks like will need it.

These are what I have:
http://www.vleds.com/h7-in-line-cap.html

However, I'll warn you that at the time I got them, it was apparent that VLEDS custom-made these for me as they did not sell them until I contacted VLEDS about my DRL issues. The pair they sent me had the wrong connectors for H7 so I had to get them to send me the correct H7 female ends. I later noticed that the male ends were also not exactly H7, but I had spare connectors from HID kits so I did not bother VLEDS about it. The good thing is that the kit is modular so things like connectors are plug-and-play swappable.

That being said, if your issue is regarding surges like a high load, don't you want a resistor instead of a capacitor? VLEDS also sells resistor harnesses:
http://www.vleds.com/resistors/drl-fog- ... es-h7.html

Do you know of a place to get HIR's? I'm intrigued. Wonder if they would last longer than the stock lights.

I looked into them a while back - from memory they're only available in one bulb type (not the right type for the Kizashi.) But you might have more luck than me with Google.

I agree with Murcod. It appears that HIR bulbs are only offered in select bulb sizes (9005 and 9006) which are not compatible with the Kizashi. There are no HIR H7 bulbs. It makes sense given HIRs are rather bulbous in shape meanwhile the H7 is among the smallest headlight bulbs out there. The diameter of most H7 applications would not be compatible with a HIR version of the bulb. It appears HIR bulbs are not even an option for us.
Here's what one looks like.

[avluis]

Out of curiosity, can you direct me to the type of capacitors that you are using for your LED kit.
I have a small surge issue (high load, etc) and my led kit looks like will need it.

These are what I have:
http://www.vleds.com/h7-in-line-cap.html

However, I'll warn you that at the time I got them, it was apparent that VLEDS custom-made these for me as they did not sell them until I contacted VLEDS about my DRL issues. The pair they sent me had the wrong connectors for H7 so I had to get them to send me the correct H7 female ends. I later noticed that the male ends were also not exactly H7, but I had spare connectors from HID kits so I did not bother VLEDS about it. The good thing is that the kit is modular so things like connectors are plug-and-play swappable.

That being said, if your issue is regarding surges like a high load, don't you want a resistor instead of a capacitor? VLEDS also sells resistor harnesses:
http://www.vleds.com/resistors/drl-fog- ... es-h7.html

Thank you for those links, will help a lot narrowing down the actual problem I have.

Essentially, somewhat like the stock lamps, the brightness fluctuates according to the rpm that the car is currently producing.
In my particular case, with the stock lamps, it was very noticeable, until I switched out to LED lamps.
The only issue after that is that the actual converters (ballasts, as it is known for HIDs (they up and somewhat regulate the incoming 12-15V to 35V) suffer a bit from that variation on input power.

I'm currently looking into a better alternator, but for now an optima red top is on my shopping list, along with either a capacitor or resistor to go along with my LED kit.

How do you think I should approach this? Have you had similar issues before?

[murcod]

Avluis, your alternator output shouldn't be varying that much. I checked the head light voltage on mine a while back (there's a post on here with the details) and it was sitting at 14 odd volts at idle with the head lights on. It was higher at the battery.

It might be your battery? I ditched mine a while back and have an Optima.

[avluis]

Avluis, your alternator output shouldn't be varying that much. I checked the head light voltage on mine a while back (there's a post on here with the details) and it was sitting at 14 odd volts at idle with the head lights on. It was higher at the battery.

It might be your battery? I ditched mine a while back and have an Optima.

Ok, perfect, thanks for the info.
Then I'll forget about the alternator and go with the optima.
DId you go with a red top as well?

http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/sh ... g-battery/

[murcod]

Cut from another thread:

Did some testing today. Engine idling, low beam on - head light voltage at rear of the bulb= 13.95V ; battery voltage was 14.46V at the same time.

For the battery, I've got a Optima Red Top 35, here's the thread: http://www.kizashiclub.com/forum/viewto ... =12&t=2619

[avluis]

Cut from another thread:

Did some testing today. Engine idling, low beam on - head light voltage at rear of the bulb= 13.95V ; battery voltage was 14.46V at the same time.

For the battery, I've got a Optima Red Top 35, here's the thread: http://www.kizashiclub.com/forum/viewto ... =12&t=2619

Perfect. Same one I am going for as well.
Thanks for all the info!

And sorry for derailing the thread...

[KuroNekko]

Thank you for those links, will help a lot narrowing down the actual problem I have.

Essentially, somewhat like the stock lamps, the brightness fluctuates according to the rpm that the car is currently producing.
In my particular case, with the stock lamps, it was very noticeable, until I switched out to LED lamps.
The only issue after that is that the actual converters (ballasts, as it is known for HIDs (they up and somewhat regulate the incoming 12-15V to 35V) suffer a bit from that variation on input power.

I'm currently looking into a better alternator, but for now an optima red top is on my shopping list, along with either a capacitor or resistor to go along with my LED kit.

How do you think I should approach this? Have you had similar issues before?

What kind of LED bulbs do you have? What you're describing sounds a lot like the issue I had with my flickering LEDs. A capacitor harness will resolve the issue, but will pretty much disable a low-power mode if you have that.
All the details of my experience is found here:
http://www.kizashiclub.com/forum/viewto ... =32&t=2900
The last few pages detail the issues I had with the DRLs flickering and then the capacitors making them always run on full power. I ended up returning the LED bulbs because the matter could not be resolved ideally.

I also believe a stronger battery may help the issue but there could be a lot of variables depending on what you're dealing with.

[avluis]

What kind of LED bulbs do you have? What you're describing sounds a lot like the issue I had with my flickering LEDs. A capacitor harness will resolve the issue, but will pretty much disable a low-power mode if you have that.
All the details of my experience is found here:
http://www.kizashiclub.com/forum/viewto ... =32&t=2900
The last few pages detail the issues I had with the DRLs flickering and then the capacitors making them always run on full power. I ended up returning the LED bulbs because the matter could not be resolved ideally.

I also believe a stronger battery may help the issue but there could be a lot of variables depending on what you're dealing with.

These LEDs are single stage only, and replace my driving lamps. Haven't bothered with the HIGH beams yet as I got some Ultra-White or Ultra-Blue that match them fairly well.
Let's see, this describes them pretty well:
H7 LED 6000k 1800 Lumen 25W

At the time I could not find (didn't bother too much) anything brighter so settled for these.
And yes, I believe that capacitor harness should cover my issue.
I will be pairing it with the Optima Red Top just to up my chances, as I also believe the stock battery may not have that oomph anymore.
Also, my LEDs don't have a low power mode, so I'm good there.

[KuroNekko]

These LEDs are single stage only, and replace my driving lamps. Haven't bothered with the HIGH beams yet as I got some Ultra-White or Ultra-Blue that match them fairly well.
Let's see, this describes them pretty well:
H7 LED 6000k 1800 Lumen 25W

At the time I could not find (didn't bother too much) anything brighter so settled for these.
And yes, I believe that capacitor harness should cover my issue.
I will be pairing it with the Optima Red Top just to up my chances, as I also believe the stock battery may not have that oomph anymore.
Also, my LEDs don't have a low power mode, so I'm good there.

In that case, I think the capacitor harness from VLEDS would be a good solution. The capacitors are high quality. The specs on them are found in the link.
Just make sure to ground them properly.

[avluis]

In that case, I think the capacitor harness from VLEDS would be a good solution. The capacitors are high quality. The specs on them are found in the link.
Just make sure to ground them properly.

Yep, thanks again.

I had emailed them to make sure I was getting the right connectors for my H7 kit and just got this reply back:
"Hi Luis,

We will make sure it has the correct H7 male and female ends on it to work with your set up. We'll get it shipped out by tomorrow for you.

Thank you,
Customer Support"

So thanks again!