rpm drop too low after replacing a new battery, pls help!!

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LPSISRL
Posts: 991
Joined: Tue Jun 18, 2013 12:49 pm
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia

tan jc wrote:Mr. LPSISRL
yes, you are right,
when i made Longer and smoother stop, it feel much better.
so, should i let the car RE-LEARN for another 1 or 2 weeks before i take further action?
I think that is reasonable to wait a couple of weeks.

I've noticed that the transmissions seems to be integrated with the braking in the CVT models. You'll notice a completely different braking experience if the you brake in neutral as opposed to in drive, especially noticeable when you get below 20 MPH. Watch the RPMs drop as the car slows. You'll see that the transmission is locked with the engine until the RPMs drop well below 1000. When braking hard, the transmission doesn't seem to "let go" of the engine until the RPMs have dropped too low and the engine stumbles before the transmission finally release it.
2011 Kizashi SLS CVT (silver)
2005 Honda Odyssey
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2009 Suzuki SX4 Cross AWD 5-speed Tech package (vapor metallic blue)
tan jc
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Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2016 7:12 am

:D :D :D
My problem solved,

i would like to thank Mr.KuroNekko, Mr. G13b and Mr. LPSISRL

I went for a scan, first the mechanic disconnected the battery, after 30 minutes he reconnected and pluged in a device into a vga socket below the car sterling, the reading shown no error except a sensor malfunction, it read sunload sensor malfunction, i google-ed and learned that sensor is related to auto aircond, so we neglected it. He then did some reset. My kizashi was better then.

However,
on the next morning when i restarted my car, i found the problem became worse than before scanning, so i contacted the mechanic, i also called my friend, i told him my car problem,

they both adviced me to check the " throttle body"

so i went to workshop again,

Again the mechanic disconnected the battery, after 10 minutes, he detached a big hose that connected to the "throttle-body" portion, the other end of the hose he did not detach but he opened the air filter box,
another mechanic just sat in the driver seat keep depressing and releasing the accelerator,
he brought a chemical can and sprayed into the "throttle-body" and cleaned with a cloth,
later he restarted the engine, depressing the accelerator and doing a few procedures,
it takes around half hour my car was back to tiptop condition again.

So the real problem is "throttle"
Doing some cleaning SOLVED the problem..

Thx everybody
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Woodie
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Location: Laurel, MD

MAF sensor cleaning.
Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
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LPSISRL
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Joined: Tue Jun 18, 2013 12:49 pm
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia

Funny. Mine (and many others) had the same problem but mine went away without any servicing. Coincidence maybe?
2011 Kizashi SLS CVT (silver)
2005 Honda Odyssey
Priors:
2009 Suzuki SX4 Cross AWD 5-speed Tech package (vapor metallic blue)
dnh808
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu Sep 12, 2013 3:08 pm

im currently having the same issue as well. gonna dig in there and clean out the throttle body and maf sensor ... and take her for a spirited stop and go drive,
SamirD
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Wow, what a timely thread. I just replaced the battery yesterday and am seeing the same low-rpm issues. No biggie I thought as the car has to relearn...

Until this morning when a 'SERVICE ENGINE' came up big bright and yellow. :( Any ideas? I did disconnect the maf connector and open the air box to move it a bit out of the way and make the battery change easier. But I thought I felt it clip back into place properly before I started the car.
SamirD
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Forgot to note that we drove the car about 10-12mi yesterday after the battery change without the 'SERVICE ENGINE' message ever popping up. It just did it this am when my wife started it to go to work.
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Ronzuki
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Location: Lancaster County, PA

I'm getting the distinct impression that it is best to replace the battery before it, more or less, completely craps itself. If not, it would appear that not having a continuous minimum amount of available power scrambles the eggs pretty good in our cars. I replaced mine after noticing it's crank didn't seem to have its usual umpfh following a winter season and before entering the next. Never had any warning lights pop up of any kind. The only oddity was an extended crank a couple times prior to the battery swap (here's your sign kinda thing). Have never had that happen since the new battery was installed. When swapping, my electrical system was disconnected for no more than 5 minutes, probably much less. Essentially the time it took to lift the old one out and put new one in. It's also probably noteworthy that I still have all factory installed control module flashes (ie no dealer flashes) and I have done zero electrical modifications of any kind to the car aside from headlamp bulb replacements and the non-Kenwood RF amp being replaced under warranty for the fluctuating volume issue early on.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
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LPSISRL
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Codes don't always don't show up immediately upon a failure, depending on the code. Often the issue has to be there for a number of things like start cycles before a code is thrown. Maybe it does have to the the MAP being unplugged. Have you re-seated it? It would also be good to know what code is being thrown. Some codes are permanent and will not go away unit you reset the MIL even if you fix the problem. That's what happened with my dirty throttle body.
2011 Kizashi SLS CVT (silver)
2005 Honda Odyssey
Priors:
2009 Suzuki SX4 Cross AWD 5-speed Tech package (vapor metallic blue)
SamirD
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So I had exactly 8hrs to fix this and I think I somehow did--but unfortunately it amounts to a 'close all the windows and try again' type of solution.

I checked the airbox for any bad seals, inspected the maf connector for proper contact and checked one other thing I can't remember. I got back in and checked to see if the 'service engine' showed in acc mode. It did.

I then proceeded to remove the battery in the same manner I did before, also disassembling part of the airbox and disconnecting the maf. I had forgotten to add the riser to the bottom of the interstate battery, so I really was doing all this for that purpose, but looking back I wouldn't do it again as the negative terminal comes close to the body and could contact it if the battery isn't tied down tight and jumps a bit.

I reassembled everything, double checking everything as I went. I not only plugged in the maf, but plugged/unplugged it a few times and moved it back and forth to allow the contact surfaces to rub on each other inside the connector. This time when I started, the idle was very close to normal until it warmed up. Then it was low, but not too bad.

I drove the car about 50 miles or so to return the factory battery as a core. The two times I started the car after stopping it, it would start and almost immediately die. I would turn it off and restart it for it to restart and have a low idle, but it never died the 2nd time. I observed this until I had to leave.

The wife had to drive it today and she said it's perfectly back to normal. I have no idea how, but I am completely relieved!
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