An update:
I have a hydraulic jack and 4 jack stands now so I did a tire rotation recently with all four tires off the ground. This is the easiest DIY method, but still a bit cumbersome.
The center jacking points on the car make it easier to install two jacks at once. Just be careful to properly locate the jacking points so you don't damage a component that isn't designed to hold the weight of the car. FWD models and AWD models have different rear jacking points. My photos shows the FWD's location.
Additionally, never get under the car with only the jack holding the vehicle up. While my photos look like I did just that, it was only my camera that was actually under the car.
The front jacking location is indicated by the red arrows. It's rather close to the front bumper and is part of the frame not covered by plastic underbody shields.
The rear jacking location is rather far up from the rear bumper. I had to really look under the car carefully to locate it. The FWD models have a bracket that comes down at the jacking point. AWD models are jacked by a different component.
On rotating the tires:
I ended up accidentally using the "RWD" tire rotation method. I was also concerned about my tread pattern on my Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 tires given they are asymmetrical but sort of look directional. I ended up calling Michelin and was informed that these tires are non-directional and that the "RWD" rotation method is suitable. Next time, I just plan to cross-swap (X-pattern) to make things easier to remember.
DIY Tire Rotation
When you raised the car using the front central jacking point, did the metal on the jacking point stay intact? Or did it bend?KuroNekko wrote: The front jacking location is indicated by the red arrows. It's rather close to the front bumper and is part of the frame not covered by plastic underbody shields.
Reason why I'm asking is because I used the same jacking point (the one you have pictured) when raising the front of my Kizashi in order to replace the swaybar bushings, and the metal ended up bending in...which made me question whether it really was the correct jacking point they illustrate in the manual.
Just went through this when changing my transfer case and rear diff fluids. The lift point is the same on AWD models, except you use the diff instead of a bracket.KuroNekko wrote:The rear jacking location is rather far up from the rear bumper. I had to really look under the car carefully to locate it. The FWD models have a bracket that comes down at the jacking point. AWD models are jacked by a different component.
If you need to raise both front and rear, I recommend lifting the rear first due to the limited clearance.
Hmmm...that's weird, I don't know why mine did then. It seriously did deform...I'll have to take a picture and show you what I mean when I get a chance.bootymac wrote:Yup, same herenytq wrote:I've jacked mine up dozens of times now at that central point with no bending whatsoever.
Haha honestly I sometimes feel like the black sheep of the Kizashi family...the regulars on here seem to have no issues with their Kizashi's, yet I seem to always have some peculiarities or problems with mine
That is a load bearing point so it really should not bend.
Could be:
1) Your just special
2) Your not actually on the jacking point
3) Your "special" and your not on the correct jacking point
But seriously, make sure your on the right spot. And does your jack have high spots on the area that touches the jacking point. I noticed mine has some high spots around a circular plate. Maybe one of those hit just right and pushed in the bracket. I'm just guessing here. I'm a bit anal about the car so even when jacking I put some kind of material between the jack and the jacking point just to avoid any unnecessary scratches and what not.
Could be:
1) Your just special
2) Your not actually on the jacking point
3) Your "special" and your not on the correct jacking point
But seriously, make sure your on the right spot. And does your jack have high spots on the area that touches the jacking point. I noticed mine has some high spots around a circular plate. Maybe one of those hit just right and pushed in the bracket. I'm just guessing here. I'm a bit anal about the car so even when jacking I put some kind of material between the jack and the jacking point just to avoid any unnecessary scratches and what not.
2011 SE AWD PLATINUM SILVER W/RRM INTAKE AND CUSTOM CAT BACK
I do this too. I made sure the frame came in contact with the flat part of the jack's plate.nytq wrote:
But seriously, make sure your on the right spot. And does your jack have high spots on the area that touches the jacking point. I noticed mine has some high spots around a circular plate. Maybe one of those hit just right and pushed in the bracket. I'm just guessing here. I'm a bit anal about the car so even when jacking I put some kind of material between the jack and the jacking point just to avoid any unnecessary scratches and what not.
Makes sense. The owner's manual made it look like it was the rear differential for AWD models. I know most other AWD, 4x4, and RWD vehicles use the rear diff as the rear center jacking point.bootymac wrote: Just went through this when changing my transfer case and rear diff fluids. The lift point is the same on AWD models, except you use the diff instead of a bracket.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)