Help Please With My Cylinder Misfire Issue

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User avatar
Woodie
Posts: 1167
Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 10:09 am
Location: Laurel, MD

DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION AND PROCEDURES
COMPRESSION CHECK
1. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature.
2. Stop engine after warm-up.
3. For CVT model, place select lever in "P" and apply parking brake.
For M/T model, place gear shift lever in "Neutral" and apply parking brake.
4. Remove engine cover.
5. Remove all ignition coils and spark plugs ,see SPARK PLUG REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION .
6. Disconnect all fuel injector connectors.
7. Connect special tools together and install then into spark plug hole.
8. Depress accelerator pedal all the way to fully open throttle.
9. Crank engine with fully charged battery, and read the highest pressure on compression gauge.
NOTE: For M/T model, disengage clutch to lighten starting load on engine, and
depress accelerator pedal all the way to fully open throttle.
NOTE:  For measuring compression pressure, crank engine up to at least 200
rpm with fully charged battery.
 Check resting position of special tool if measured compression
pressure is lower than the limit.
 If the measured compression pressure of particular cylinder is lower
than the limit, add a bit of engine oil into the cylinder through the
spark plug hole, and then repeat the compression check.
 If the compression pressure increases after adding engine oil,
the following may be the cause:
 Pressure leakage due to worn piston rings or worn
cylinder
2010 Suzuki Kizashi SE
2010 ENGINE Engine Mechanical - Kizashi
Compression pressure
Standard: 1,400 kPa (14.3 kgf/cm2 , 203 psi)
Limit: 1,100 kPa (11.2 kgf/cm2 , 160 psi)
Max. difference between any two cylinders: 100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2 , 14.5 psi)
10. Carry out Steps 7) through 9) on each cylinder.
11. Install spark plugs and ignition coil assemblies, see SPARK PLUG REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION .
12. Connect fuel injector connectors.
13. Install engine cover.
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SSHREST4
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2019 11:00 pm

Hello Everyone,
Thank you so much for your help so far regarding my issue in the car. I did a compression test yesterday as per suggestions and the results don't look it. Please advise me to go forward from here on, I will really appreciate it.

Engine Compression Test Results (Performed Twice)
The compression was performed after I drove car for 6 to 7 minutes.

Cylinder 1: 150 psi (1st Time Reading) 150 psi (2nd Time Reading)
Cylinder 2: 148 psi (1st Time Reading) 149 psi (2nd Time Reading)
Cylinder 3: 154 psi (1st Time Reading) 151 psi (2nd Time Reading)
Cylinder 4: 10 psi (1st Time Reading) 10 psi (2nd Time Reading)

I have attached image of the compression test.

The cylinder 4 has 10 PSI which is very very low. What might be the issue and is it worth fixing it?

Also, can I drive the car without fixing it? I know it will cause an issue on the catalytic converter later on because of the gas but I am thinking about disconnecting the power to the 4th fuel injector so that no fuel gets sent to the forth cylinder and drive the car till its end.

Any suggestions will be highly appreciated.

The images are here:
cylinder 1.jpg
cylinder 1.jpg (92.47 KiB) Viewed 3744 times
Attachments
cylinder 2.jpg
cylinder 2.jpg (92.24 KiB) Viewed 3744 times
cylinder 3.jpg
cylinder 3.jpg (96.29 KiB) Viewed 3744 times
cylinder 4.jpg
cylinder 4.jpg (92.04 KiB) Viewed 3744 times
User avatar
KuroNekko
Posts: 5170
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:08 pm
Location: California, USA

Air, fuel, spark; those are the components needed for combustion. Sounds like you got the spark part covered with new parts and the problem persisted. Time to move onto fuel. Have you tested the fuel injector for Cylinder 4? It shouldn't be too hard and I think any auto shop could diagnose it for you. Check the wiring. I once had to fix a Toyota Sienna that misfired due to mice literally chewing through the fuel injector control wire.

The worse cause would be with air as that would mean bad valves but I think you really should rule out a bad fuel injector first.

I can't imagine running only 3 cylinders on a 4 banger is a good idea. When I had a misfire due to a failed coil a little while back, the engine was unnervingly rough at idle. Let's hope to fix it properly and have the engine running as it should.
Good luck!
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
User avatar
Ronzuki
Posts: 2382
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

10 pounds, sheesh that's all but zero...there's a valve closure problem, or, a completely toasted set of rings on piston #4 (hard to imagine that). hard to believe the head gasket is the culprit either. Did you add oil to the cylinder and run the compression test again to rule out the rings?
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

Most likely your problem is a burned exhaust valve. I have spare valves for the cost of shipping, if you want.

That said, if you want to run it as-is, this might help. I usually don’t endorse mechanic-in-bottle remedies, but this one is a little different:






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