2011 kizashi awd drops RPM and won't accelerate

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Jfge8618
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 11:54 pm

Hi, I bought recently a 2011 kizashi I lo very the thing but I've had a few episodes where the car while driving will drop rpm and won't accelerate but if I shift it on neutral I can go full rpm. If I shut the car off for a couple of minutes and restart the problem goes away. Has this happen to any one. If so what have been the solutions.

Thanks in advance
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

You will need to have the trouble codes read for both engine and transmission. It sounds like car is falling into limp mode . Im suspecting you have purchased someone elses problem and possibly transmission is failing.. How many miles are on it ?
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Ronzuki
Posts: 2382
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

Unfortunately, that was my first thought as well...
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
Jfge8618
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 11:54 pm

old tech wrote:You will need to have the trouble codes read for both engine and transmission. It sounds like car is falling into limp mode . Im suspecting you have purchased someone elses problem and possibly transmission is failing.. How many miles are on it ?
She has 150xxx km, this my first car with cvt and i have not noticed the usual auto problems it's got pretty much good take off and have not noticed the usual slipping and or lack of power. When the fail happens it just won't accelerate it won't go over 2000 rpms approx. In an older car I would think it's the pump or fuel pressure regulator, I had it scanned but I believed the scanner did not have capability to scan the trans I just gave us a code for CPS circuit "a" p0335 I believe and I replaced the sensor but still have the issue. Of power loss and I have noticed it happening more often on hot days or long traffic jams.

And other thing the engine was pressure washed before the issue appeared. I want to believe that could have been part of the issue tomorrow she is going to the suzuki dealer to have it diagnosed. let's hope for something not as bad as a tranny as they are stupid hard to come by here in chile where am living at the moment.
bdleonard
Posts: 268
Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:39 am

Jfge8618 wrote:
old tech wrote:You will need to have the trouble codes read for both engine and transmission. It sounds like car is falling into limp mode . Im suspecting you have purchased someone elses problem and possibly transmission is failing.. How many miles are on it ?
She has 150xxx km, this my first car with cvt and i have not noticed the usual auto problems it's got pretty much good take off and have not noticed the usual slipping and or lack of power. When the fail happens it just won't accelerate it won't go over 2000 rpms approx. In an older car I would think it's the pump or fuel pressure regulator, I had it scanned but I believed the scanner did not have capability to scan the trans I just gave us a code for CPS circuit "a" p0335 I believe and I replaced the sensor but still have the issue. Of power loss and I have noticed it happening more often on hot days or long traffic jams.

And other thing the engine was pressure washed before the issue appeared. I want to believe that could have been part of the issue tomorrow she is going to the suzuki dealer to have it diagnosed. let's hope for something not as bad as a tranny as they are stupid hard to come by here in chile where am living at the moment.
Well, bad readings from the crank sensor will certainly result in the car going in to limp mode. If you have already replaced the crank sensor with a new one, I would take a close look at the wiring or connectors for damage (particularly water intrusion given the pressure wash), including the ground wires on the car and the connectors to the main ECU. I would also suggest testing the battery / alternator to make sure that they are functioning within factory specifications.
Jfge8618
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 11:54 pm

Update!!! The dealer here could not diagnose the problem they had it for 7 days, so I took it with me and once home I started looking thru this forum and came up with a post that stated that if the oil in the cvt was bad and it heated the car could present this symptoms so I removed the oil in the pan and filled her up and the difference is huge. I'm going to do it again a couple times more to get cleaner oil in the system as i don't feel comfortable doing a flush on it plus i had to order the filters from the states and the o-ring as well.

I got 12 quarts of oil yesterday I replaced 3.7 which is what came out of the pan, I'm going to run it for 200 km and do a second run and then a third by the 4th I should have the filters to replace them hopefully that will solve my issue.

And as far as the differences the wining noise disappeared and the car is way more responsive and smooth in auto and with the paddles.

Hope this also helps others
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

While changing the fluid out on the cvt it is best to first drain fluid using the the drain plug then remove all pan bolts except 1 or 2 in the front of the pan letting the old fluid finish leaking out the rear. Gently lower pan and examine any debris in the pan and pickup screen. The original 2 magnets at this mileage will normally be a little furry but shouldnt look like a donut. The screen needs to be clean but I think yours is getting clogged . The very rear of the pan may have silver metallic shavings. This would indicate primary fatigue. The locating balls wearing away along with the shaft letting the drumside wobble into the piston and chewing up the black teflon sealing ring. (this is the nonmetallic stuff that you hope is not on the screen) Cleaning this screen with a can of brake clean will do. if you change it , make sure you have the correct pickup screen.There was an updated deeper pan and matching pickup screen. The later pickup screen is not listed at autozone but one for an altima will work since really the updated pan is altima . I always add 5 small magnets to the rear of the pan but space is limited in the original shallow pan.
Jfge8618
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 11:54 pm

Hey guys a little update on the issue i had. I was freaking out doing research here n there trying to figure it out because i was traveling from santiago chile to medellin colombia on suki and after i did the oil change pn the cvt no issues whatsoever in the city for a week so i decided to go ahead with the trip.

No issues until about 800 kilometers the car started doing its thing. Stopped for a bit freaking out without telling my wife the issue. I started the car and keep going. After a day traveling at an average of 130kmh no issues. Then crossed into Peru on day 2 and again no issues. Day three on the other hand got interesting.

The damm thing started loosing power to the point I had to stop and check fluids etc. And then I started to freak out, I mean I'm in Peru in the middle of a fucking dessert literally. This was near the nazca ruins in the middle of fucking no where.

I called my mechanic and told him the deal he tell me take it to the nearest dealer. I jump in it and started going to the dealer now with my wife and kid knowing and worried and me trying to keep it cool.

The nearest dealer was 300 km from where I was and the car started loosing power every 20 mins.

By the way, it at no point started slipping of making noises.

I had 300 km to think about it and then realized it might be another thing other than the cvt or tcm so I thought I might be the pump.

As i get to the dealer a day and a half later ( remember I'm having to stop every 10 mins shut it off and kept going). The guy immediately tells me it's the cvt then I tell him my theory and tells me Its possible but the equipments to do the test on the pump or injectors was in the next town 85 kms away. By the way this was on December 24 at 10 in the morning.

Now I'm on my way limping the car to the other town 10 minutes at a time. I took me about 3 hours between traffic and the situation. I got there at 2 PM the guy is at lunch, he gets there at 3 and then we go for a ride.

Immediately he says cvt and I told just keep driving it will loose power completely to what he says if that happens it's the pump so we kept driving till the car came to a complete stop but did not cut off.

Then he says we got 2 hours to take it apart and put it together wish words where "I got a cui to attend to" what's a cui well Google it lol.

So he drove back to the dealer. in less than 20 mins this 2 guys had the tank in floor and the pump in the table.

The issue: the guy who had the car before me took really good care, or he thought so he keep putting addictives to the fuel to the point the prefilter got clogged. A sprai with carb cleaner and this guy's put it all back together.

At 6pm I left the dealer on my way back to Colombia after all that brainstorm all it was just a dirty prefilter.

The funny thing is that once I got to colombia the damm thing after a full service and a new pump the cvt started making noises. My brother who was driving back to chile on it decided just to make the trip like this. 16 days later they arrived overall the car now has 169xxxkm the trip took 17xxx km in a two month period and now I am looking at this car outside my place think how in the fuck It made the trip back.

And I'm still using it as my daily notice and all. the noise is a rattle at take off or if I'm trying to take over.

Mechanic says it's the belt or the chain.

Overall after all that I agree with many here I love this fucking thing and will be attempting opening the cvt for surgery myself, some will wonder but why not? What's the worst that could happen lmao
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