Cheap fix 05 rear tire wear

Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
NOTE: Any car related technical question can be posted here.
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

After years and miles these cars have a tendency to settle in the rear suspension leading to a little more negative camber and also toe out. The toe out causes pretty bad tire wear on the inside of the tire tread.Image First you’ll need to get a total measurement. Take a tape measure from one side to the other , pick out a certain tread then,as high from the floor as you can without interference on the front side of the tire take a measurement then go to the back side of the tire at the same height at the same tire groove, take another measurement. The front side is supposed to be a 16th of an inch shorter distance. With 130,000 miles I’m finding these things to be out sometimes nearly a half of an inch of where they should be. We will use that number right now for illustration purposes. Now raise the car to working height and you can measure across the front side of the tire again which will have changed drastically just by lifting the car and write that measurement down. If we want to change the total toe a of a half an inch then what we’re going to be looking to change on this measurement is half of that so a 1/4 of an inch difference is what we’re looking for . Now you divide that between the two wheels to keep your centerline or thrust angle so an 1/8 of an inch correction on each wheel . This type of adjusters are usually frozen by rust but by loosening the nut on the rear side of the arm (use heat if you have to just make sure you don’t snap it off)then going to the front side using a new 6 point 17 mm socket and the longest breaker bar you can come up with you can force it to turn .Image On the right rear you’ll be turning it counterclockwise . It will a bit of strength to turn and will most likely make a loud crack noise . I find that 2 of the crack noises and it will be just about right. I live in a very high salt use area and have yet to see one of these adjusters that isn’t froze but yet as little as you need to move them it can be done. Now do the same on the left rear only you will be turning that one clockwise. Don’t forget to retighten your jam nuts. Now lower to the floor and roll it back-and-forth a few times and re-check your measurements . You want to end up with 0 to 1/16 of an inch toe in. The adjusters on the square aluminum control alarms is used for adjusting camber or tilt Unless the camber is obviously out just by looking at it I don’t suggest moving it due to the risk of breakage. Camber itself is not a wearing angle if camber is adjusted it must be done before the toe adjustment. Alignment shops like all these adjusters to work like new but it will get very expensive really quick . If the toe adjusters really can’t be forced to move anymore , a turn buckle unit can be scarfed from an old camry and welded into the arm but I haven’t had to do this yet Image


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. I recently had to use this method of repair on the right rear of a Kizashi where the toe adjuster was maxed out and needed more toe in . I cut 6 inches out of lateral link and welded a turn buckle swiped from a worn out Camry link . This worked fantastic Image
Doing this as a customer repair would cost a total of $100 for one side done and adjusted
Last edited by old tech on Sun Feb 23, 2020 2:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
Ronzuki
Posts: 2382
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

Is this adjustment SOP for an alignment tech to correct on a commercial (Hunter) alignment rack, or, is this one of those many things you've discovered during your plethora of experiences w/ the Kizashi? And, are you implying the bolts in the steel arms are in fact cam bolts? I'd have to pull out old alignment specs, but I don't recall a rear toe spec, and therefore, I'm guessing that this is something you've noticed, analyzed the situation, and came up with your own correction to the issue. Maybe I'm thinking of a different alignment parameter the rears don't have an adjustment for.

I ask because a) I just put the new tires on and had an alignment done (did not receive print-out this time), and b) I have always had this rear tire wear you are describing, as most folks here have experienced.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

The toe measurement I listed is within factory spec . The procedure is barbaric but effective . I hear of many trying a professional alignment only to get a “ can’t do it , adjusters are froze” response. Yes the bolt gets froze to the steel sleeve of the bushing but it can still be turned just enough . This does wind up the bushing but just slightly because the cam adjustment is coarse. The only risky thing is getting the nut loose which may require heat . Here is alignment specs right from Suzuki Image Here is the stuff I’m running into. Image Alignment shop tried to loosen but without using heat and snapped it off . ...Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
User avatar
Ronzuki
Posts: 2382
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

That pic right there reminds me of when I removed the stock leaf packs on my 91 Samurai in 2003. Bolts were all rusted (siezed) to the bushing sleeves. Bushing sleeves wer one with the bushings of course. Heat did absolutely nothing (bushings were nearly aflame). A Sawzall and much cussing was involved. The absolute worst part of any of the mods I'd done to the thing. No lift and up on jack-stands, lying on the floor for what seemed like hours.

So what's your plan/remedy for that busted arm bolt?
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

Already fixed .This was for the camber which was close enough. Someone tried to fine tune it I guess. I welded a washer to the nub and then tacked that to the subframe on both bolt and nut side. The operation could be reversed at any time but would be part pricey and just not necessary.
GBan
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2021 12:43 am

If the toe adjusters really can’t be forced to move anymore , a turn buckle unit can be scarfed from an old camry and welded into the arm but I haven’t had to do this yet Image


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. I recently had to use this method of repair on the right rear of a Kizashi where the toe adjuster was maxed out and needed more toe in . I cut 6 inches out of lateral link and welded a turn buckle swiped from a worn out Camry link . This worked fantastic Image
Doing this as a customer repair would cost a total of $100 for one side done and adjusted
[/quote]

I am going to have to do this. I could not get the toe alignment to budge at all and the right rear is mega off and is wearing through tires quickly.

So here is my question. does the "Turn Buckle from a Camry" have a specific name. I am not knowing exactly what it is that I need to look or ask for when going to a salvage yard?
GBan
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2021 12:43 am

Also when I did my measurement My front tire measure was 57. 4/10ths" My back measurement was 56. 9/10ths, So that seem that my toe is already about a half inch out and I need to adjust it in. So do I still seek to turn the nut counterclock wise for right rear? Doe that move the toe in?
GBan
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2021 12:43 am

Ok I went back and re read it. I understand that the norm is toe out, which is what I am dealing with. Cannot move the adjustment bushing at all, even with a breaker bar. I must go the "turn buckle from a Camry route, is that what it is called?
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

I have had the rear of these cars be toed out a half an inch before. When they’re that far out they are destroying the tires fairly quickly. The turn buckle that I am using in the the picture is from a 94 Camry I believe, but any Camry from 92-2001 will do . This is taken from the most rear control arm. My suggestion would be a U-pull it yard and take a battery powered saws-all. You could purchase a new Camry arm on E bay for only $28Image
I hope this helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
GBan
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2021 12:43 am

old tech wrote: Tue Feb 25, 2020 2:27 pm The toe measurement I listed is within factory spec . The procedure is barbaric but effective . I hear of many trying a professional alignment only to get a “ can’t do it , adjusters are froze” response. Yes the bolt gets froze to the steel sleeve of the bushing but it can still be turned just enough . This does wind up the bushing but just slightly because the cam adjustment is coarse. The only risky thing is getting the nut loose which may require heat . Here is alignment specs right from Suzuki Image Here is the stuff I’m running into. Image Alignment shop tried to loosen but without using heat and snapped it off . ...Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
THANK YOU SO MUCH this is very helpful!
Post Reply