Kizashi Club

Your Kizashi Owners Club and Forum 

Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
NOTE: Any car related technical question can be posted here.
 #51187  by old tech
 Sun Feb 23, 2020 2:26 pm
After years and miles these cars have a tendency to settle in the rear suspension leading to a little more negative camber and also toe out. The toe out causes pretty bad tire wear on the inside of the tire tread.Image First you’ll need to get a total measurement. Take a tape measure from one side to the other , pick out a certain tread then,as high from the floor as you can without interference on the front side of the tire take a measurement then go to the back side of the tire at the same height at the same tire groove, take another measurement. The front side is supposed to be a 16th of an inch shorter distance. With 130,000 miles I’m finding these things to be out sometimes nearly a half of an inch of where they should be. We will use that number right now for illustration purposes. Now raise the car to working height and you can measure across the front side of the tire again which will have changed drastically just by lifting the car and write that measurement down. If we want to change the total toe a of a half an inch then what we’re going to be looking to change on this measurement is half of that so a 1/4 of an inch difference is what we’re looking for . Now you divide that between the two wheels to keep your centerline or thrust angle so an 1/8 of an inch correction on each wheel . This type of adjusters are usually frozen by rust but by loosening the nut on the rear side of the arm (use heat if you have to just make sure you don’t snap it off)then going to the front side using a new 6 point 17 mm socket and the longest breaker bar you can come up with you can force it to turn .Image On the right rear you’ll be turning it counterclockwise . It will a bit of strength to turn and will most likely make a loud crack noise . I find that 2 of the crack noises and it will be just about right. I live in a very high salt use area and have yet to see one of these adjusters that isn’t froze but yet as little as you need to move them it can be done. Now do the same on the left rear only you will be turning that one clockwise. Don’t forget to retighten your jam nuts. Now lower to the floor and roll it back-and-forth a few times and re-check your measurements . You want to end up with 0 to 1/16 of an inch toe in. The adjusters on the square aluminum control alarms is used for adjusting camber or tilt Unless the camber is obviously out just by looking at it I don’t suggest moving it due to the risk of breakage. Camber itself is not a wearing angle if camber is adjusted it must be done before the toe adjustment. Alignment shops like all these adjusters to work like new but it will get very expensive really quick . If the toe adjusters really can’t be forced to move anymore , a turn buckle unit can be scarfed from an old camry and welded into the arm but I haven’t had to do this yet Image


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Last edited by old tech on Sun Feb 23, 2020 2:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
 #51188  by Ronzuki
 Mon Feb 24, 2020 2:34 pm
Is this adjustment SOP for an alignment tech to correct on a commercial (Hunter) alignment rack, or, is this one of those many things you've discovered during your plethora of experiences w/ the Kizashi? And, are you implying the bolts in the steel arms are in fact cam bolts? I'd have to pull out old alignment specs, but I don't recall a rear toe spec, and therefore, I'm guessing that this is something you've noticed, analyzed the situation, and came up with your own correction to the issue. Maybe I'm thinking of a different alignment parameter the rears don't have an adjustment for.

I ask because a) I just put the new tires on and had an alignment done (did not receive print-out this time), and b) I have always had this rear tire wear you are describing, as most folks here have experienced.
 #51192  by old tech
 Tue Feb 25, 2020 2:27 pm
The toe measurement I listed is within factory spec . The procedure is barbaric but effective . I hear of many trying a professional alignment only to get a “ can’t do it , adjusters are froze” response. Yes the bolt gets froze to the steel sleeve of the bushing but it can still be turned just enough . This does wind up the bushing but just slightly because the cam adjustment is coarse. The only risky thing is getting the nut loose which may require heat . Here is alignment specs right from Suzuki Image Here is the stuff I’m running into. Image Alignment shop tried to loosen but without using heat and snapped it off . ...Thanks


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 #51199  by Ronzuki
 Wed Feb 26, 2020 1:15 pm
That pic right there reminds me of when I removed the stock leaf packs on my 91 Samurai in 2003. Bolts were all rusted (siezed) to the bushing sleeves. Bushing sleeves wer one with the bushings of course. Heat did absolutely nothing (bushings were nearly aflame). A Sawzall and much cussing was involved. The absolute worst part of any of the mods I'd done to the thing. No lift and up on jack-stands, lying on the floor for what seemed like hours.

So what's your plan/remedy for that busted arm bolt?
 #51201  by old tech
 Thu Feb 27, 2020 2:38 pm
Already fixed .This was for the camber which was close enough. Someone tried to fine tune it I guess. I welded a washer to the nub and then tacked that to the subframe on both bolt and nut side. The operation could be reversed at any time but would be part pricey and just not necessary.