Typical Acceleration

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hillboy73
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2020 4:02 am

Does anyone else notice that their car accelerates perfectly the very first leg of driving from a cold start? If I start my car and drive down the road, it will hit around 2000 rpms and hold. Once I hit the stop sign and go again, it's a completely different program? It will climb to around 2000, then drop to 1600 and climb again. Sometimes it drops to 1000-1200, and it really lags when that happens. Any ideas?
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

Ive noticed that and its how its programmed. Cold its keeping the engine from lugging for emission reasons probably. Warmed up its trying to get into high gear quick for fuel mileage.
hillboy73
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2020 4:02 am

Is it normal to hear a light clicking from cvt belt when first accelerating? What I originally thought was a cv axle click I am starting to think is coming from the trans.
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

Im impressed that you came to this conclusion because that is it. The belt and or pulleys have become imperfect . This noise doesnt necessarily mean it needs a repair. If the primary has known good balls or long pins then this can be ignored. If trans has 75k + miles and then Id suggest checking pan floor for what look like small peelings of chrome . This would indicate the balls wearing away letting the primary pulley wobble which could be the cause of the noise. In most cases though no noise is noticed.
hillboy73
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2020 4:02 am

I did change the fluid and filters the other weekend and there was some typical fur on the magnets but nothing that looked concerning. The pan filter was very clean, the cartridge filter was a dark color like most I have seen posted. There is 91k on the car, but the state of the internals is unknown. I only hear the noise when the car very first starts to move (as in like 1-3 mph). Is there a repair that can be made to save the whole transmission from going out or at that point do you just rebuild the whole thing?
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

A preventive repair or modification can certainly be done. The trans has to be pulled though. If you brought the trans to me and you wanted the stock balls replaced in primary , I can do that at a cost of $130. If you want long pin $150. Either could be done while you wait. I now stock the other parts to fix should it need anything else, Im pretty sure you could get away with just this though.
hillboy73
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2020 4:02 am

Does anyone happen to know the relation between the throttle position sensor and the torque convertor lockup on these cars? Is the lockup adjustable via the TPS is what I am getting at or not related at all? I ask because my TPS voltage on my truck directly affects lockup of the convertor
bdleonard
Posts: 268
Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:39 am

hillboy73 wrote:Does anyone happen to know the relation between the throttle position sensor and the torque convertor lockup on these cars? Is the lockup adjustable via the TPS is what I am getting at or not related at all? I ask because my TPS voltage on my truck directly affects lockup of the convertor
With the electronic "drive by wire" throttle in the car, there is not a TPS as such. The pedal sensor is used as in input for the computer in the car to control the throttle. The accelerator pedal position does impact when the torque converter lockup is allowed to occur, however any change to that would impact the way the accelerator pedal itself works. For those who are curious, attached is the data table from the service manual
TCC Table.png
TCC Table.png (4.86 KiB) Viewed 4541 times
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