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 #52158  by old tech
 Fri Sep 25, 2020 4:06 pm
I had purchased a 2010 Kizashi se awd with 110,000 that needed an engine replace due to an overheat caused by a failed belt tensioner . I wanted to refresh the transmission while the car was down. The common trouble spot , the primary pulley balls mainly. I drained and the gently lowered pan to inspect for debris on the pan floor . I found three interesting things. The vin tag on trans doesn’t match cars vin so we are probably on number two tranny . The 0 ring for pickup screen must have been lost and deemed unnecessary by the last person here,and the amount of silver heavy ball shavings in the pan .Image
At this point I’m just hoping I caught it in time to save the primary shaft and drum. With the Tran out and on a tray on the floor I pull the torque converter out and then lay bell housing side down,take note of the position of 3 special length bolts indicated by the drill marks on the bolt head. Then remove all the 14mm headed bolts. Now remove 2 out of the six 12mm and screw in 2 long 8-1.25 studsImage
You are using these at this point to make sure the internals are staying down while you pry and tap the lid off. This must be kept very square and evenly gapped as you lift it off or damage will occur. Next remove pulley follower , shaft and spring. Next hold belt tension by using two chisels shoved between secondary pulley and case. Image
Now you can stuff magnets and rags around the primary pulley and remove the 55mm nut then you’ll need a puller to pull drum side of primary up slowly till bearing and piston are barely free, no further. Image
Have your buddy hold drum still and remove puller , bearing and retainer , and piston . Using a pocket magnet pick out the balls as you tip the drum slightly Image
The rags and magnets you placed earlier will help with any runaways. You should have 6 in total . These are the ones I pulled from this trans .Image
Only one of them was still in decent form . I have no way to be exact on miles but an educated guess would be 75-90k. The drum and shaft are still perfect. The piston Teflon seal ring is in two pieces. These can be purchased separately but probably only at a few places and to make it tougher there is two thicknesses . Either one was used from factory . They cost about $20ea. The piston is reusable after smoothing it up a bit on the wire wheel Image
The drum slides nicely on the shaft and time to remove the ball retainer and throw it away if you are going to covert to long pin like I do . The pins I use I cut myself to 1.4 in long from bearing grade steel 6mm rod and the dress the ends on a valve stem grinder. Image
Sometimes these drop in and sometimes I have to sand the pins using a drill and emery cloth but the drum needs to slide freely on the shaft.Image
Now ready to reassembe after fitting new sealing ring on piston and sliding it into drum then the steel plate retainer and bearing. On the retainer plate, it is just the opposite of the secondary side on which way it faces. I use a large socket and hammer to drive the bearing back on .Image
Now reinstall big shat nut with a little blue locktite. Tighten this nut using a half inch impact. There is no listing on a torque spec but it needs to be tight. Now feel how smooth the plunger works on the ratio control valve. Image
If this is silky smooth that’s a very good indication that the Trans hasn’t been exposed to enough wear particals to need a flow control valve replacement yet. Re insert the follower system and shift trans to park position extending park shaft. After cleaning mating surfaces, use a small trail of anatomical sealer . Make sure secondary wear washer is seated properly in lid . Using the 2 long studs as guides start them through the lid,then start park shaft , then follower shaft . Make sure 0 ring is in place then lightly tap with wood or plastic hammer to get all shafts to align in lid . Move shifter to reverse. Do not use bolts to pull it together. Just tap all over and keep it square with case. Start your 6 12 mm bolts in using silicone sealer to dress up the O-rings. Torque these to 14 foot pounds then you can reinstall the 14 mm bolts and torque those to 33 foot pounds. The torque converter0 ring is usually pretty flat . I always put a new one in.Image


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Last edited by old tech on Fri Sep 25, 2020 4:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
 #52165  by Quimicax
 Tue Sep 29, 2020 3:15 am
This Pin Is Ready Coming In JF016E