Kizashi Club

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Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
NOTE: Any car related technical question can be posted here.
 #26767  by ~tc~
 Fri Mar 28, 2014 2:13 am
I have heard using PB on header bolts is a disaster. If it doesn't work, and then you heat the bolts up, it practically welds them together.
 #26775  by LPSISRL
 Fri Mar 28, 2014 1:55 pm
Wow. I never thought that LW would work better than PB. For practically my whole life I've used LW. Then I had to borrow some PB from a friend. My impression was that it worked better. A lot better so I've been using PB ever since. I still have a couple of cans of LW. Maybe I should try it again? I also wonder if they would test the same using torque instead of pressing.
 #26791  by SamirD
 Sun Mar 30, 2014 1:33 am
A lot of the penetrating fluids work in similar ways. I only got PB because Kryol (sp?) was not available anywhere. It did a really good job. You just have to be smart about using it, like anything else.

As far as welding together--I could only see that if PB had a high enough boiling/flash point that the metal would actually start to melt and fuse. Otherwise, it just might allow the metal to get a lot more comfy together (more surface friction) and not break free as easily.
 #52239  by AirRideFan
 Tue Oct 20, 2020 9:29 pm
Bringing this post back from 2014, guys...because this is all such great info. I am deciding between coating all the metal surfaces under the Kizashi with my (used) motor oil--- or just spending $50 or so on a lubricant like Liquid Wrench and spending like 30-40 mins coating everything. I HATE the salt. I want the Kizashi to last another 100k !
 #52241  by SamirD
 Wed Oct 21, 2020 2:46 am
The best stuff I have found for this type of treatment is fluidfilm--I would spray it on stuff that showed any sign of corrosion every 6 months when swapping over to the winter/summer tires. I saw nearly zero rust on the car while it spent most of its time in the midwest. As soon as it came back to the south after the last winter in the midwest, it actually rusted solid in a month and wouldn't even move. :( Since then I've had to spray almost everything to try to keep the rust at bay. :(
 #52242  by LPSISRL
 Wed Oct 21, 2020 3:23 pm
The biggest question for me would be evaporation. How long does the stuff stay put before it evaporates and then loses any effectiveness? Seems like WD-40, PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench are penetrating oils and not designed to stay on surfaces a long time. (yeah, I know WD is water displacement but it's often used for stuck parts) Years ago my brother in law who lives in Canada would spray the underside of his car every fall with used motor oil. He'd then drive down a dirt road so the dust and dirt kicked up would cling to it and pretty much protect it the entire winter.
 #52246  by Ronzuki
 Thu Oct 22, 2020 12:06 am
LPSISRL wrote: Years ago my brother in law who lives in Canada would spray the underside of his car every fall with used motor oil. He'd then drive down a dirt road so the dust and dirt kicked up would cling to it and pretty much protect it the entire winter.


How'd ya like to be the guy that has to work on that car? First order of business, pressure wash the underside of the car before any kind of service? That won't happen. The guys I'd mentioned earlier in the thread that would 'pre-treat' their rigs w/ WD40 would always wash off the mud and grime within a day or two after an outing...not leave in on there for months, or forever.

A word of caution...pretty sure it's not a great idea to be spraying used oil randomly underneath modern (electronics packed) cars and leaving it there for months on end. I don't know what spec general purpose automotive wire is, but you can be sure they're not wasting pennies per foot on oil resistant wire where it isn't needed. I can tell you oils (hydraulic, gear, whatever, (very likely used engine oil with diluted fuel in it) is corrosive to wire insulation, electrical connections, and electrical enclosure rubber sealing parts in my world. All of these items must be rated for resistance to oil exposure and oily mist. Non oil resistant wire and cable quickly turns soft and gummy when used in the wrong environments. The worst stuff I've ever encountered is the grease they spay into commercial bakery bread pans as the release agent (buttering the baking pan). That stuff used to cause all kinds of electrical grief back in my bakery automation days.
 #52247  by LPSISRL
 Thu Oct 22, 2020 1:32 pm
This was an old Pontiac Bonneville. Probably like a ate 70s? So probably very little wiring going on there. Especially on the undercarriage.
 #52249  by Ronzuki
 Thu Oct 22, 2020 10:31 pm
;) Figured it was and oldie...my caution is for someone reading this here and heading out to the garage and spraying away on whatever it is they're driving today.
 #52250  by Ronzuki
 Thu Oct 22, 2020 10:32 pm
Ronzuki wrote:;) Figured it was and oldie...my caution is directed at someone reading this here, and then heading out to the garage and spraying away on whatever it is they're driving today.