The brake lights looks dim because of the angle of the camera shot. Had I been seated in a car behind the mazda, then the brake lights would appear bright and the center light, not so much. The center light is actually angled a little up.
As for the LED bulbs, I've read that it's because the LED uses less power to light up than a filament and makes the car think a bulb is out. It's why you get the faster flashing regardless of whether you have a LED bulb or no bulb at all. It's not the lower current draw of an LED that causes the faster flashing, it's the fact the the car thinks a bulb is out and is trying to notify the driver. It occurs because the LED consumes less voltage, much like using LED bulbs to replace your home's incandescent bulbs. Otherwise, how is it supposed to save you energy and therefore $?
LED tail lights
Power (Watts) = Voltage (Volts) x Current (Amps)
so, Current (Amps) = Power (Watts) / Voltage
Your typical filament rear stop or turn bulb will be around 21 Watts, an LED replacement fit bulb depending on type bought will most likely be only around 2 Watts. (These are both realistic, but generic, examples to plug into the above equation.)
The voltage to the bulb will always be 12V in this case- that's the voltage that is fed directly to the bulbs from the cars electrical system. The bulb type cannot vary the voltage - the only way it could significantly drop the voltage is in an over current situation (eg. short circuit) which would result in a large voltage drop through a huge increase in the current being drawn through the wiring.... and the result would be either a fire (from a wire burning) or a blown fuse. The only thing that will vary with a filament and LED bulb is the current drawn- LED bulbs will usually use less as can be seen putting the given examples into the equations.
For the example 21Watt filament bulb the current would be 21/12 = 1.75Amps
the 2 Watt LED bulb would drawer 2/12 = 0.17 Amps.
The current drop is what can change the flasher rate.
Older style flasher units (commonly called "flasher cans") are a mechanical design and varying the current drawn through them will cause the speed they switch at to vary. You can buy more modern "electronic flasher cans" that use only electronic componentry to do the switching- their switching frequency is not affected by the current drawn
Note- I've used 12V as the vehicle voltage, it will vary depending on alternator operation, battery state of charge etc. I've also left out the slight difference in voltage at the bulb that would be caused by the difference in current being drawn ( caused by small amounts of resistance in the vehicles wiring from the battery.)
so, Current (Amps) = Power (Watts) / Voltage
Your typical filament rear stop or turn bulb will be around 21 Watts, an LED replacement fit bulb depending on type bought will most likely be only around 2 Watts. (These are both realistic, but generic, examples to plug into the above equation.)
The voltage to the bulb will always be 12V in this case- that's the voltage that is fed directly to the bulbs from the cars electrical system. The bulb type cannot vary the voltage - the only way it could significantly drop the voltage is in an over current situation (eg. short circuit) which would result in a large voltage drop through a huge increase in the current being drawn through the wiring.... and the result would be either a fire (from a wire burning) or a blown fuse. The only thing that will vary with a filament and LED bulb is the current drawn- LED bulbs will usually use less as can be seen putting the given examples into the equations.
For the example 21Watt filament bulb the current would be 21/12 = 1.75Amps
the 2 Watt LED bulb would drawer 2/12 = 0.17 Amps.
The current drop is what can change the flasher rate.
Older style flasher units (commonly called "flasher cans") are a mechanical design and varying the current drawn through them will cause the speed they switch at to vary. You can buy more modern "electronic flasher cans" that use only electronic componentry to do the switching- their switching frequency is not affected by the current drawn
Note- I've used 12V as the vehicle voltage, it will vary depending on alternator operation, battery state of charge etc. I've also left out the slight difference in voltage at the bulb that would be caused by the difference in current being drawn ( caused by small amounts of resistance in the vehicles wiring from the battery.)
David
You should think of LEDs as rated by current, not voltage. The only reason you are concerned with voltage is to insure the driver has enough voltage compliance. Insure that the current source will work at the
maximum expected voltage.
I've had several near misses in the last few years where I've almost been rear-ended, the one driver I was able to talk to said that my rear lighting didn't really stand out from the car brakelights around me, and this was after I added the brake-only incandescent bulbs in the outer pods. Subsequently I've installed LED 1157 bulb replacements installed which are as bright as the incandescent bulbs
maximum expected voltage.
I've had several near misses in the last few years where I've almost been rear-ended, the one driver I was able to talk to said that my rear lighting didn't really stand out from the car brakelights around me, and this was after I added the brake-only incandescent bulbs in the outer pods. Subsequently I've installed LED 1157 bulb replacements installed which are as bright as the incandescent bulbs