They don't in Australia. From what I've seen most Suzuki dealers where I live seem to favour Castrol Magnatec (spelling?)
And I doubt it's because the quality of that particular oil is the best!
Recommended Brand of Motor Oil?
Bumping an older thread, but it's a good discussion. 
Now I just use my ears and stethescope more than anything to determine engine wear and oil-related wear.
From what I read in our service manual, we have flat tappet shims for our cams. Is this the same thing?Ronzuki wrote:...check out any Jeep site regarding the 4.0l and flat tappet cams!
I was using Blackstone for oil analysis on all my cars with every change to keep an eye on mineral contents for any pending catastrophic failure. I lost faith in them when I discovered a slight rod knock in one of my cars during an oil change and their reports didn't indicate anything wrong.KuroNekko wrote:Sounds like no one has gone nuts and done a used oil analysis or cared to argue about the best oil.
Now I just use my ears and stethescope more than anything to determine engine wear and oil-related wear.
Jeep's 4.0l I6 has a conventional old-school valve train (a cam, lifters and push rods). The Jeeps grind on the cam/lifter bottoms is completely flat. Without the slight angle in the grind to rotate the lifter in the bore as the lobe contacts the bottom, you can (and do) develop excessive wear over time. The I6 does better with an older spec oil containing the high levels of the pre-catalytic converter days additives for lube (zinc?) that modern oils no longer contain (or enough of).SamirD wrote:Bumping an older thread, but it's a good discussion.From what I read in our service manual, we have flat tappet shims for our cams. Is this the same thing?Ronzuki wrote:...check out any Jeep site regarding the 4.0l and flat tappet cams!
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
) 1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)Very interesting. The Porsche guys also have this as a heavy discussion point since the more modern oils have gone away with higher levels of zinc. Seems like it would be a wear issue no matter what car you have. 
I'm reviving an old thread on motor oils.
The main reason is because I switched to Mobil 1 5W-30 at my last oil change from Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30. Since the change, I've actually noticed more engine noise at idle, a rougher idle, and higher oil consumption than with PU. It looks like this engine may prefer PU over M1.
I recall SamirD (where did this guy go, anyway?) once complaining about a noise while idling. This was when his car had Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 oil filter from the previous owner. His dealer guy blamed it on the oil filter and recommended the Suzuki OEM filter. However, I've used a Mobil 1 oil filter all along and I've not heard these idling noises nor had the rougher idle before using Mobil 1 motor oil. Things were always smooth and quiet with the Pennzoil Ultra motor oil + Mobil 1 oil filter combo.
While I still think Mobil 1 is a great oil, I'm thinking maybe there are better oils for the Kizashi's J24B engine. Not sure if anyone did an used oil analysis, but I was curious about other people's experiences with different motor oils.
I've had my favorites depending on the car and the mileage. I've used Valvoline Max Life shortly after it hit the market in my 1995 Subaru Impreza. It really did help with gasket leaks and curbed oil burn-off in this car with well over a 100,000 miles.
In my Legacy and Mazda3, I used Pennzoil Platinum and then Pennzoil Ultra when it came out. When I got the Kizashi, I started using Pennzoil Ultra and liked the results, but switched to Mobil 1 at the last oil change due to the convenience of buying it over PU.
There's also talk of Mobil 1 changing their formula recently. It supposedly followed a claim Mobil made against Castrol about the definition of "Synthetic Motor Oil" to the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau. Without getting too technical, my understanding is that Castrol was using lower grade Group III stock that did not meet what Mobil considered ingredients for proper "synthetic" oil. However, when the BBB decided in favor of Castrol, Mobil then decided to follow suit and also use lower grade Group III stock in Mobil 1. Apparently, their true synthetic formula can now only be found in their Extended Performance Mobil 1 motor oils.
Here's some discussion on it on BITOG:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=2548209
Word is that "German Castrol", or what's called the European Formula with Castrol Syntec, is actually a true synthetic. The reason why is because Germany has higher standards of what is considered a true synthetic motor oil than the US and those with Group III blends don't cut it. Much like with beer, they are more particular with the quality of motor oil. Basically, Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra, Mobil 1, American Castrol Syntec, and many others aren't considered true synthetics in Germany. About the only ones are "boutique" oils like Royal Purple and Amsoil. This European Formula Castrol Syntec is called German Castrol because it's made in Germany. It's apparently sold in Autozone and available in the weight of 0W-30. This makes it appropriate for our cars. Anyone here using German Castrol?
All this being said, I don't actually really care too much about using "true synthetics" vs. "Group III" synthetics. I'm not that obsessed with lubricants, but was just curious given M1's reputation yet their alleged recent changing of Mobil 1's formula. Given that I've personally noticed a change since switching to M1, I thought it may be worthy to talk about oils in our engines.
The main reason is because I switched to Mobil 1 5W-30 at my last oil change from Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30. Since the change, I've actually noticed more engine noise at idle, a rougher idle, and higher oil consumption than with PU. It looks like this engine may prefer PU over M1.
I recall SamirD (where did this guy go, anyway?) once complaining about a noise while idling. This was when his car had Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 oil filter from the previous owner. His dealer guy blamed it on the oil filter and recommended the Suzuki OEM filter. However, I've used a Mobil 1 oil filter all along and I've not heard these idling noises nor had the rougher idle before using Mobil 1 motor oil. Things were always smooth and quiet with the Pennzoil Ultra motor oil + Mobil 1 oil filter combo.
While I still think Mobil 1 is a great oil, I'm thinking maybe there are better oils for the Kizashi's J24B engine. Not sure if anyone did an used oil analysis, but I was curious about other people's experiences with different motor oils.
I've had my favorites depending on the car and the mileage. I've used Valvoline Max Life shortly after it hit the market in my 1995 Subaru Impreza. It really did help with gasket leaks and curbed oil burn-off in this car with well over a 100,000 miles.
In my Legacy and Mazda3, I used Pennzoil Platinum and then Pennzoil Ultra when it came out. When I got the Kizashi, I started using Pennzoil Ultra and liked the results, but switched to Mobil 1 at the last oil change due to the convenience of buying it over PU.
There's also talk of Mobil 1 changing their formula recently. It supposedly followed a claim Mobil made against Castrol about the definition of "Synthetic Motor Oil" to the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau. Without getting too technical, my understanding is that Castrol was using lower grade Group III stock that did not meet what Mobil considered ingredients for proper "synthetic" oil. However, when the BBB decided in favor of Castrol, Mobil then decided to follow suit and also use lower grade Group III stock in Mobil 1. Apparently, their true synthetic formula can now only be found in their Extended Performance Mobil 1 motor oils.
Here's some discussion on it on BITOG:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=2548209
Word is that "German Castrol", or what's called the European Formula with Castrol Syntec, is actually a true synthetic. The reason why is because Germany has higher standards of what is considered a true synthetic motor oil than the US and those with Group III blends don't cut it. Much like with beer, they are more particular with the quality of motor oil. Basically, Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra, Mobil 1, American Castrol Syntec, and many others aren't considered true synthetics in Germany. About the only ones are "boutique" oils like Royal Purple and Amsoil. This European Formula Castrol Syntec is called German Castrol because it's made in Germany. It's apparently sold in Autozone and available in the weight of 0W-30. This makes it appropriate for our cars. Anyone here using German Castrol?
All this being said, I don't actually really care too much about using "true synthetics" vs. "Group III" synthetics. I'm not that obsessed with lubricants, but was just curious given M1's reputation yet their alleged recent changing of Mobil 1's formula. Given that I've personally noticed a change since switching to M1, I thought it may be worthy to talk about oils in our engines.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
How many people are honestly going to keep their Kizashi long enough to wear the engine out - even if using a cheaper known brand oil of the correct ratings?
I have had engines die from timing belts snapping prematurely.
I have had engines die from timing belts snapping prematurely.
David
Why pay the same price (or more) for an inferior product?murcod wrote:How many people are honestly going to keep their Kizashi long enough to wear the engine out - even if using a cheaper known brand oil of the correct ratings?
I have had engines die from timing belts snapping prematurely.
Kuro's experience doesn't surprise me. I've been reading mediocre things about M1 for a while now. I'm a big fan of Pennzoil Platinum and Shell Rotella T6
I wasn't talking specifically about the M1 vs Pennzoil - there are a lot cheaper (but decent quality) oils out there that more than meet the factory spec of The J24B is a fairly agricultural engine (by modern standards)- it's not boosted nor high revving. That's reflected with the minimum spec of SG- which is a very old standard.Use only engine oil of SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM grade.
There are tests everywhere that show certain oils can perform better under extreme conditions, but those test conditions should never exist in your engine in the first place! So, it's a bit hard to conclusively say brand X oil will make my engine last longer because it was better at test X.
PS: Like I said - how many people on here are going to own their Kizashi long enough to wear the engine out?
David
