Kizashi Club

Your Kizashi Owners Club and Forum 

Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
NOTE: Any car related technical question can be posted here.
 #45916  by Ronzuki
 Sat Dec 09, 2017 9:06 pm
That's fine for the feedback circuit, but an emulator can't fix the lock actually failing in the locked position....unless one has torn the column apart to completely remove the locking mechanism, which is no small, uncomplicated feat based upon what I saw in the manual.

Sad state of affairs when you have to have to dismantle your steering column and purchase additional techno-gadgets just to fool a damn car in to starting.
 #45919  by BLyons
 Sun Dec 10, 2017 8:09 am
KuroNekko wrote:
Kizzy13SLSAWD wrote:Has anyone looked for a suitable steering lock emulator? I know Nissan and Mercedes owners have used these with great success.


If it works for something like a Nissan Altima, it should work for a Suzuki Kizashi. They have the same parts maker for components related to vehicle security from what I can tell.


Maybe, maybe not. Ours is definitely wired differently. The Nissans could just pull the fuse to disable the lock entirely and the car didn't care. Ours won't allow that.
 #45940  by IA_Kizashi
 Wed Dec 13, 2017 3:48 am
I showed my daughter how to tap the module with a wrench when it won't start and she's able to get it to start as soon as she does that, every time. I have a very good mechanic who is fully capable of replacing the module. However, it was previously mentioned that the car might not start afterwards because the FOB may need programmed to the new module, which he can't do. So I'm not sure what the heck I'm going to do. I'm guessing the ex-Suzuki dealer here would charge a small fortune. The car only has 60,000 miles but maybe I need to think about dumping it for something different. :-(
 #45941  by Ronzuki
 Wed Dec 13, 2017 2:13 pm
Depends on which "module" you're referring to. The steering lock module that she's banging on then I'd say no, unless is needs to be paired somehow to the Ignition Module. Didn't see anything like that in the manual. If you are talking about replacing the Ignition Module (electronic black-box) then yes, I'd expect the FOBs would need to be paired with that.

Good news, at least, she knows what to do to get the car to start and it appears reliable for the time being.
 #46027  by BLyons
 Wed Dec 20, 2017 1:29 am
On Friday, my missing bolt finally came in the mail. Apparently the unit sensed that it's days were numbered, because even though it had been mostly problem free lately, it decided to leave me completely stranded Friday night and I had to Uber home. First time that's happened. When I went back for the car, it started right up on the first try.

It was replaced today by a local shop. No programming necessary. Time will tell if this fixes the problem or not. I did keep the old unit, so if someone would like to tear it apart or experiment with it, let me know.
 #46393  by ken.cope
 Tue Feb 06, 2018 1:14 am
Has anyone found a solution or bypass as of yet that it tried and true. This was happening last year. I replaced my fob batteries and never had the problem again. Just recently though in the last 2 weeks I have had this problem multiple times a day. I would turn the car off then without even opening the door try to start again and the "turn steering wheel to release lock" error would come back up. If someone knows how to replace the part or anything please let me know.

This is on a 2010 Suzuki Kizashi.
 #46592  by fyrbry25
 Sat Mar 10, 2018 6:04 pm
I have a 2010 SE and I have not been able to drive it in a month. I took it to an ex-dealer and was told that the steering wheel lock mechanism was faulty. I was then told that it would be 5 weeks until the part was shipped from Japan to PA in the United States and cost just under $300 part only. I decided to try another method, I found a salvage yard that had a donor vehicle on the PA/Ohio border that was willing to pull parts and send them to me to replaced mine in a weeks time instead. Well the entire steering column was pulled from the junked car and shipped to my for 170.00 and I ordered the breakway bolts with a lead time of 1.5 weeks. Well i took the steering lock off the junked steering column by using a cold chisel on the non removable bolts, then took the functional part up to the dealer with the new and old bolts for comparison. Two days later go the call that new part installed, but wont work with my existing key, they are "mismatched" and I need to try to find/acquire the key that was married to the replacement steering lock and i should get the keyless entry module (black box) that goes with it. Another week goes by and those two items show up and i take them to the dealer. They install the matching keyless entry module and use the junked car keyfob and the car starts. they move it 30' and it shuts down and gives them an ECM/ECU car brain doesnt match code. I am now trying to figure out my next step, can we just put the old lock mech back on after we grind down the pin so it doesnt engage? Do i purchase the other brain from the donor car and hope that is all i need and that it doesnt then check with another piece of electronics and shut down bec i need that part to from the donor? Or maybe it runs but the doors dont open or worse....I am also figuring that buying a "NEW" steering wheel lock would work because it would be blank electronically and learn the codes without have to be flashed or programmed.
Not sure what to do, but wanted to share my experiences so far.....I will let you all know what ends up being the ultimate solution or that I gave up and let it at the dealership for all of eternity....

thank you for taking the time to read this and i welcome any and all thoughts and opinions, other than "you should have done this..." I want solutions" not what i did wrong, bec i clearly didnt solve the problem at this point, but i still love the car, just wish i could drive it.

OH yeah, the biggest issue is that the dealer can not (doesnt have tools anymore) to code or reprogram keys/fob/ or flash the cars, so if anyone in PA knows of dealer that can still do so please let me know


Bryan Bassett
Allentown Pa
 #46597  by Woodie
 Sun Mar 11, 2018 12:51 pm
fyrbry25 wrote:OH yeah, the biggest issue is that the dealer can not (doesnt have tools anymore) to code or reprogram keys/fob/ or flash the cars, so if anyone in PA knows of dealer that can still do so please let me know

I think this is the root of your problem. With the proper tools they should be able to match that new unit to the car (and fobs) in seconds. We're getting competing stories about this steering wheel lock unit. Some say just put it in, there's no matching or programming needed. Others are saying that it's mated to the car/fob.
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