Hello !
Thanks goodness for this forum. New to it, but love my Kizashi.
I've got a blown Fosgate Subwoofer in my 2010 SLS. Any acceptable replacements people can offer are appreciated or should I just go back to the dealer? I took it to an audio store and they couldn't match the sub up without putting in another amp? Didn't sound right to me.
I live in the middle of nowhere (Missouri) and the closest dealer is 1.5 hours away.
Any and all input is appreciated.
Hookiss
2010 RF Subwoofer
I'd call Suzuki USA and see what they say. You're probably out of warranty, but it won't hurt to talk to them. They might probably refer to you a dealership that will do discounted work in 'good faith'.
The other option would be to simply source the subwoofer yourself once you have the part number and switch it out yourself using the various documents here on this site. You'll probably save quite a bit in labor and know a bit more about your car too.
The audio shop not being able to replace it sounds about right. The RF system in our cars is a custom set of amps and speakers designed for our cars (much like a bose system in a car), so you either have to get the same parts or a lot of custom stuff to patch in other parts.
The other option would be to simply source the subwoofer yourself once you have the part number and switch it out yourself using the various documents here on this site. You'll probably save quite a bit in labor and know a bit more about your car too.
The audio shop not being able to replace it sounds about right. The RF system in our cars is a custom set of amps and speakers designed for our cars (much like a bose system in a car), so you either have to get the same parts or a lot of custom stuff to patch in other parts.
I'm calling bullshit. The wiring is probably a special plug, but that could easily be traced, cut, and soldered onto a new speaker.
For subs, I have been a LONG time fan of JL Audio ... Helped me to 5th in the world back in the day ... This is what will be going in my Kizashi when I redo the system:
http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-subwoo ... vers-tw5v2
For subs, I have been a LONG time fan of JL Audio ... Helped me to 5th in the world back in the day ... This is what will be going in my Kizashi when I redo the system:
http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-subwoo ... vers-tw5v2
2011 Sport SLS with nav Black Pearl Metallic
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- Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 12:41 am
- Location: Hawaii
I contacted RF via their website for info on my sub cutting out after long periods at max output. They were helpful to me. Maybe they can provide you with a part # or where you can get a replacement?
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/support/rftech.aspx
two
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/support/rftech.aspx
two
2012 SLS
Azure Grey
FWD CVT
Azure Grey
FWD CVT
For sure.~tc~ wrote:I'm calling bullshit. The wiring is probably a special plug, but that could easily be traced, cut, and soldered onto a new speaker.
Here's some relevant info : http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products ... 13-kizashi - 8" dual voice coil subwoofer.
Judging by pics on the internet it's not an "off the shelf" RF model
eg.
and
The first pic shows the connector - it would be easy to fit that to a new sub. The second pic the four mounting holes required. The hard bit will be removing the rear parcel shelf to change the speaker over inside the cabin.
David
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- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:31 pm
Changing the sub out would be easier than you think. The hardest part is removing the old sub. After that, take an Ohm meter and read the resistance of the voice coils. If you have 2-2 ohm voice coils (wired to a 4 ohm load) which is what I'm guessing it is, pretty much anything with 2 ohm coils will work. As stated before, just cut the old wiring from the RF sub and attach it to the new one and walah! new sub!
The OP mentions the sub is "blown" - so possibly the voice coils are open circuit/ burnt out?
The multimeter might give a useful result on a functioning speaker, but technically you'd be measuring the Resistance - which is a DC measurement. Speaker's are rated for Impedance- which is an AC measurement. Speaker impedance ratings are also averaged over the frequency response range of the speaker. (The speaker's impedance varies with the frequency of the voltage being fed to it and is also affected by the enclosure design.)
Bottom line- it might not give you the speaker's true impedance. You'd also want to short the multimeter leads out first and check if the meter display really reads zero Ohms for a short circuit- most don't.
The multimeter might give a useful result on a functioning speaker, but technically you'd be measuring the Resistance - which is a DC measurement. Speaker's are rated for Impedance- which is an AC measurement. Speaker impedance ratings are also averaged over the frequency response range of the speaker. (The speaker's impedance varies with the frequency of the voltage being fed to it and is also affected by the enclosure design.)
Bottom line- it might not give you the speaker's true impedance. You'd also want to short the multimeter leads out first and check if the meter display really reads zero Ohms for a short circuit- most don't.
David
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- Posts: 485
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:31 pm
yeah yeah... Impedence scmimpedeance... LOLmurcod wrote:The OP mentions the sub is "blown" - so possibly the voice coils are open circuit/ burnt out?
The multimeter might give a useful result on a functioning speaker, but technically you'd be measuring the Resistance - which is a DC measurement. Speaker's are rated for Impedance- which is an AC measurement. Speaker impedance ratings are also averaged over the frequency response range of the speaker. (The speaker's impedance varies with the frequency of the voltage being fed to it and is also affected by the enclosure design.)
Bottom line- it might not give you the speaker's true impedance. You'd also want to short the multimeter leads out first and check if the meter display really reads zero Ohms for a short circuit- most don't.