Kizashi Club

murcod wrote: I brought it up because measuring low value resistances (with the average home multimeter) can be difficult at the best of times.

I know... I've been out of the game for almost 15 years, so I forget the terminology anymore. That, and I'm getting old.


What were we talking about again?

Thanks to all for their replies and posts. The subwoofer has a "rattling" sound which from what I was told means the coils are fried.

I'm not a real handyman, so I am going to contact RF directly and utilize the others advice who posted if I don't get anywhere with them.

Thanks again, folks.

the rattling sound may be something simpler. More than likely, the actual sound you hear is caused by the voicecoil "scraping" against the motor structure. The most common reason is the fried coils as you suggested. I have also heard this sound from a sub improperly mounted, and one more humorously with a rouge mounting screw bouncing up and down with the bass. Might want to check the sub's mounting before making any rash replacement decisions...

It could also be far simpler than that. The early subwoofers were known for the dust cap coming loose. Take out the rear deck and look at the top of the subwoofer. Mine had a plastic yarmulke covering the voice coil which was very lightly glued in place when built. Glue came loose and it was bouncing around in there. It flies fairly well as you throw it out the window of the car and proceed to re-install your rear deck.

It's been a minute. I'd be curious to know what your solution was.

The problem with replacing with aftermarket is you're 99% of the time going to need that extra amp. I don't believe they were trying to take you for a ride. I'm willing to bet the power output of the stock amp to the sub has very small power output. Only the cheapest of cheap aftermarket subs are going to "sound good" with that. It's just like if you've ever replaced an old factory stereo with an aftermarket one and found the sound to be explosively better. You upgraded to more power. DAC quality and the like help too but when you're on that low power and hit that first bump or two you really notice it. Aftermarket subs are designed with aftermarket amplifiers. They are not really a "stock upgrade" component like your other speakers can be. I would think they could become such a thing, but more and more car manufacturers are making the stereo so integrated that it's hard to replace because it's harder to make interchangable components when they're all doing it different and not a lot of people will upgrade and those parts aren't wanted by non-owners of those systems.

No power, no bass.

Thanks for the advice. It makes sense. Any suggestions on a brand to buy as a replacement subwoofer/amp combination?

Information about kizashi RockFord fostage, I gathered :
- 425W 8 channel AMP
- 50W@2 ohm Front speaker(L,R)
- 25W@4 ohm tweeter(L,R)
- 75W@2 ohm Rear Speaker with tweeter in front of speaker assembly(L,R)
- 25W@4 ohm Front center speaker
- Dual coil subwoofer 75W@1ohm-75W@1ohm makes total 150W subwoofer.