Suzuki Kizashi Front Turn signal problem
Did you swap the socket or the bulb? Is there a part number on it? If so, you can just look it up online.
Try here: http://suzukicarparts.com/partlocator/i ... eid=214820dotjosh77 wrote:Tried searching the part number on google and came up with nothing. Anyone have any suggestions?
The part number is typically 5 digits/letters a dash and then 5 more.
Take them both out of the car and compare the electrical contacts (metal parts) in both. Something has possibly been bent out of alignment and isn't making contact.
I'd doubt it's something that can't be fixed and requires a new part.
PS: If you can get to the contacts in the headlight (that mate with the cap) check for voltage.
I'd doubt it's something that can't be fixed and requires a new part.
PS: If you can get to the contacts in the headlight (that mate with the cap) check for voltage.
David
Did you swap them both over? (Fit the bulb/ cap that doesn't work into the working head light.)dotjosh77 wrote:I swapped the entire socket and bulb from the drivers side and it worked. Could I possibly try cleaning the contacts on the defective socket. They don't seem corroded.
David
I'd recommend some dielectric grease on the socket to bulb connection. It helps current flow and helps resist corrosion. It was the cure to my Mazda's window switch which sometimes failed. I took it apart, cleaned the contacts and then greased them. They worked flawlessly ever since.
The bulb sockets on the VW bus are so unreliable that tapping on the rear lights will have them come back on. I think the bulbs literally shake around in the sockets. I'm looking to replace the whole cluster with a LED set I've seen before. It's somewhat a safety issue given the original lights are very dim even in brake mode and bus doesn't have a high center 3rd brake light. I bought one, but have yet to wire it in. The bulbs aren't always working too due to the crappy sockets.
While there is an appeal to keeping it totally original and retro, I'm more pragmatic and want it to be safer and better performing. The headlights are awful in darkness too, so I may throw in a LED conversion kit similar to my DRL/high beams in the Kizashi. I'm giving it more time to see if the kit is really worth getting a second set for another car.
The bulb sockets on the VW bus are so unreliable that tapping on the rear lights will have them come back on. I think the bulbs literally shake around in the sockets. I'm looking to replace the whole cluster with a LED set I've seen before. It's somewhat a safety issue given the original lights are very dim even in brake mode and bus doesn't have a high center 3rd brake light. I bought one, but have yet to wire it in. The bulbs aren't always working too due to the crappy sockets.
While there is an appeal to keeping it totally original and retro, I'm more pragmatic and want it to be safer and better performing. The headlights are awful in darkness too, so I may throw in a LED conversion kit similar to my DRL/high beams in the Kizashi. I'm giving it more time to see if the kit is really worth getting a second set for another car.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
This is a really good point. It looks like a simple piece of solid state hardware. Check to see what's different between the one that works and the one that doesn't. I'm sure you'll find something bent of whatnot that you can quickly fix yourself.murcod wrote:Take them both out of the car and compare the electrical contacts (metal parts) in both. Something has possibly been bent out of alignment and isn't making contact.
I'd doubt it's something that can't be fixed and requires a new part.
