Rear Shock failure issue and TSB & Warranty Repair

Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
NOTE: Any car related technical question can be posted here.
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KuroNekko
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newworld2004 wrote:Thx, will do. I belive rear shocks part number for rear is 349141 KYB Excel-G Shock, and as mentioned above for bump stopper is KYB SB113.
on shockwarehouse.com , for rear is only one part# however front is two separate ones.

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index.cfm ... _year=2010
The KYB SB113 looks to be the correct bump stopper but you'll want to make sure. The design looks similar to the Suzuki OE "countermeasure" bumper stopper, but given the issue was specific to the Kizashi, I'd be wary about using an aftermarket bump stopper just in case the design is different, even slightly. The OE part was redesigned to prevent the corrosion issue as it specifically applied to the Kizashi. Like I said, the KYB part does look similar (like with the slots across the top) but I'm not certain if it's identical to the OE part which was designed to prevent the corrosion issue with the rear shocks.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
BlackK
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Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2016 12:57 am

This thread covers a lot of material and the answer might lie within the 27 pages - I'm wondering if this issue is a problem with most owners or just a few. I've owned my Kizashi since new (2011) and do not have a problem yet. If the problem is a matter of when it will happen and not if it will happen, I'm thinking I should buy the shocks and new stoppers now in case they become impossible to find down the road.
I'd like to hear from others that are not having an issue with their rear shocks (after 3 to 6 years) and if the consensus is that this failure issue is more relevant to those who live in humid/wet conditions or if it's just a matter of time before we all have a problem. Would appreciate hearing your feedback
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Ronzuki
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I would say if you have the original non-'fix' bump stops, it's a matter of time depending upon your geographic location (climate). Salt used here during the winter months in the NE is a major undercarriage parts killer. My Wrangler, which I've using instead of the K in winter last couple years, is a 2014 and has just over 15k miles on it. EVERYTHING, and I mean everything, underneath is corroding already.

The noise I heard before having my K's rear shocks replaced (with the new style bump stop) was very slight and only perceivable a very low speeds while entering my work's parking lot over those curved/sloped concreter curbs. Basically a speed bump more or less. I'd mentioned this to Suzuki service center one afternoon while I was passing by and they checked them and replaced them on the spot since I would have been out of warranty for a free fix/replacement within less than 200 miles.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
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KuroNekko
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BlackK wrote:This thread covers a lot of material and the answer might lie within the 27 pages - I'm wondering if this issue is a problem with most owners or just a few. I've owned my Kizashi since new (2011) and do not have a problem yet. If the problem is a matter of when it will happen and not if it will happen, I'm thinking I should buy the shocks and new stoppers now in case they become impossible to find down the road.
I'd like to hear from others that are not having an issue with their rear shocks (after 3 to 6 years) and if the consensus is that this failure issue is more relevant to those who live in humid/wet conditions or if it's just a matter of time before we all have a problem. Would appreciate hearing your feedback
Well, it's already been factually determined what causes the rear shocks to fail: trapped moisture from the older bump stopper design. However, moisture is very much a factor of environment and climate. In the East Coast or other regions with a lot of rain and snow in the winter, the issue will certainly lead to accelerated rear shock failure. For other regions like the Southwest, rain itself is rare and snow isn't a reality so the rear shocks are unlikely trapping much moisture at all as there is little of it in the ambient surroundings.
Although I live in Maryland, I'm originally from Southern California and can certainly say that the two regions are very different in climate and it has a direct impact on the longevity of vehicles. Cars in California barely have any rust anywhere. This is why there are so many vintage and older cars still on the road there. Some are obviously not cherished in terms of care, but without much rain, snow, or humidity, the cars don't suffer from rust and corrosion so they simply last longer. Even in the California mountains with winter snow (where my hometown is), you don't have corrosion issues because salt isn't used. They use what looks to be fine gravel for a number of reasons. First, they don't want the salt affecting the salinity of the lakes up there which provides drinking water. Also, because it's the mountain, the gravel like substance erodes off the road after the winter and blends with the dirt on the side of the road. It essentially doesn't lead to pollution or clogged sewer systems because the mountain doesn't have an urban sewer infrastructure. However, for the reasons the gravel-like substance is suitable for the mountains, it's not suitable for urban regions like most East Coast cities. This is why they use salt which also actually melts the snow and ice. However, salt is very corrosive to untreated metal and promotes rust. Add in the humidity of the East Coast climate in the summer and you simply have corrosion issues which vehicles and machinery in dry climates don't experience. A car with 20K miles north of North Carolina will have more rust and corrosion than a car with 200K miles in Southern California. That's certainly my personal experience.

Hence, if you live in an arid region like Southern California, Arizona, Utah, Nevada, etc. then I think the likelihood of the rear shocks going out due to the rear bump stoppers is significantly lower than regions with snow and/or humidity. I think even in Florida and Georgia (where snow is really not a reality for most people), the humidity may promote the rear shocks to fail. For those in the Northeast and the Midwest, the rear shocks will likely fail due to yearly winter snow and salt use (the worst combo for corrosion). Canadians don't stand a chance, IMO.

Mine failed very quickly and I was well under the 36K mile warranty period when both of my rear shocks were out. I got them replaced under warranty when I took the Technical Service Bulletin print-out to the Service Dealership. A mechanic drove my car as I sat in the passenger seat and he quickly concluded and that my rear shocks were gone and likely due to the reason in the TSB. I then got new OE Sport shocks in addition to the revised "countermeasure" bump stoppers. My rear shocks have been problem-free since and I now have a little over 59K on my Kizashi.

I'd also love to hear how the Kizashi in arid regions are faring with the original rear shocks, but I think the revised rear bump stoppers would be beneficial for any Kizashi. If you ever have to replace the shocks for any reason, it would be wise to install the revised bump stoppers.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
fjroman2
Posts: 171
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:15 pm
Location: Upstate, NY

Hi all...I have a 2013 SLS and my rear shocks have failed - which really bugs me because I have been asking my dealer about this TSB for quite a while now. They now want almost $500 to replace them. Based on this post, it looks like I can buy these parts and I would be all set - can anyone confirm?

Rear Boot SB113 - http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/prod ... wagen-Cars
Rear Shock 349141 - http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/prod ... el-G-Shock
The shock says FRONT - but then it says REAR also, I just want to make sure I have the correct parts.

Thanks in advance.
Frank
2013 Suzuki Kizashi SLS AWD - Premium Silver
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2007 Mazda 3S GTS
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NiteRider
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Well, after 5 years it appears my rear shocks on my 2012 GTS are starting to leak. I'm still on OE everything so I suppose I'll buy some revised bum stoppers first on amazon. Or do you think I'm too late and might as well buy new shocks?
'12 Kizzy GTS - Azure Gray
'10 Jeep Liberty
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KuroNekko
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Location: California, USA

fjroman2 wrote:Hi all...I have a 2013 SLS and my rear shocks have failed - which really bugs me because I have been asking my dealer about this TSB for quite a while now. They now want almost $500 to replace them. Based on this post, it looks like I can buy these parts and I would be all set - can anyone confirm?

Rear Boot SB113 - http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/prod ... wagen-Cars
Rear Shock 349141 - http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/prod ... el-G-Shock
The shock says FRONT - but then it says REAR also, I just want to make sure I have the correct parts.

Thanks in advance.
Frank
After looking at some actual photographs of the KYB SB113, I'm not convinced these are the "countermeasure" design that Suzuki calls for to prevent the issue. You're best getting the OE part from a Suzuki parts website. Related to that concern is the fact that your 2013 SLS actually has different shocks than the KYB replacement parts. While the Excel-G KYBs will fit, they won't perform the same way as the OE Suzuki shocks despite them also being made by KYB.

NiteRider wrote:Well, after 5 years it appears my rear shocks on my 2012 GTS are starting to leak. I'm still on OE everything so I suppose I'll buy some revised bum stoppers first on amazon. Or do you think I'm too late and might as well buy new shocks?
If they are leaking, you need new shocks. They will only get worse so they need to be replaced. When you do that, you should replace the rear bump stoppers with the newer design to prevent the issue from reoccurring.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
fjroman2
Posts: 171
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:15 pm
Location: Upstate, NY

kuro,
Are you suggesting I would need the OEM Shocks? Or is there another aftermarket solution?

Thanks
2013 Suzuki Kizashi SLS AWD - Premium Silver
Priors:
2007 Mazda 3S GTS
2004 VW Passat
1997 Nissan Pathfinder
2013 Honda Pilot (wife's vehicle)
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NiteRider
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Location: State College, PA

fjroman2 wrote:kuro,
Are you suggesting I would need the OEM Shocks? Or is there another aftermarket solution?

Thanks

From what I understand, the KYB's are the aftermarket Solution but may not be as intended due to the lower suspension specs. So it's either those or the OEM's AFAIK.
'12 Kizzy GTS - Azure Gray
'10 Jeep Liberty
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KuroNekko
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fjroman2 wrote:kuro,
Are you suggesting I would need the OEM Shocks? Or is there another aftermarket solution?

Thanks
Like Niterider said, your options are very limited. The only aftermarket shocks readily available seem to be the KYB Excel-G. These will fit any Kizashi. However, these aren't direct replacements in terms of shock characteristics to the OE Suzuki shocks for the Sport models. Some members have stated that there is a noticeable difference in that the KYB shocks aren't as good when it comes to spirited driving, but suffice for everyday driving. So basically, the KYBs will work, but you'll be apparently sacrificing some handling.
Regardless of what shock you choose, get the new bump stoppers that have the better design to prevent corrosion.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
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