Kizashi Club

Your Kizashi Owners Club and Forum 

Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
NOTE: Any car related technical question can be posted here.
 #23197  by SamirD
 Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:15 pm
KuroNekko wrote:Here's a photo of my new rear bump stopper. You can see the groove (marked with a red arrow) that is part of the new design to prevent water from collecting and corroding the shock piston rod. Shocks were also replaced as old ones were faulty.
007.JPG
I looked at both my rears struts while changing the wheels yesterday to the snow set and didn't notice the notch. I thought I've heard some clunking coming from the passenger rear for some time now, and now I'm really going to listen carefully for any signs. I tried to look for any fluid, but there was so much salt and water there from the drive back from the tire place that I couldn't tell.

But looking at the stock design, it doesn't look like a very hard thing to replace. I think the worst part is the upper perch as it must be accessed via the trunk/rear seats. I wonder if they'll put in a polyurethane bushing in the lower shock housing if I were to provide one?
 #23212  by KuroNekko
 Sat Jan 04, 2014 9:06 pm
I don't think you need to access the trunk to remove the rear shocks. If I recall correctly, the TSB shows exactly what and how to do it for the mechanic at the dealership. I don't recall reading about trunk access to remove anything.
I have no idea if they will install a polyurethane bushing on the shock, but it may void the parts and labor warranty for whatever stupid reason they come up with.

Symptoms of the issue to be attentive to include a creaking noise from the rear. You will hear them at low speeds over speed bumps and potholes. It's not a clunking but a creaking noise. It was very similar to my Mazda's when its rear shocks went out too.
It will get worse over time. As it gets worse, you will notice that the ride quality of the car will go down. It won't be as comfortable over rough roads. This was when I knew something was really wrong as the car felt different from how it used to be.

I strongly advise all Kizashi owners to pay close attention to their rear shocks as the failure is due to a design flaw of the bump stopper that was installed on ALL Kizashis regardless of model year or trim. Try to get this covered under warranty if you can. This will very likely be an issue to people who live in regions with a lot of snow.
 #23216  by Ronzuki
 Sat Jan 04, 2014 10:25 pm
On my 2010 GTS this was done completely externally. They had to drop the inner plastic wheelwell liner to access the upper myg. bracket bolts of the shocks.
 #23217  by SamirD
 Sat Jan 04, 2014 10:31 pm
KuroNekko wrote:I don't think you need to access the trunk to remove the rear shocks. If I recall correctly, the TSB shows exactly what and how to do it for the mechanic at the dealership. I don't recall reading about trunk access to remove anything.
I have no idea if they will install a polyurethane bushing on the shock, but it may void the parts and labor warranty for whatever stupid reason they come up with.

Symptoms of the issue to be attentive to include a creaking noise from the rear. You will hear them at low speeds over speed bumps and potholes. It's not a clunking but a creaking noise. It was very similar to my Mazda's when its rear shocks went out too.
It will get worse over time. As it gets worse, you will notice that the ride quality of the car will go down. It won't be as comfortable over rough roads. This was when I knew something was really wrong as the car felt different from how it used to be.

I strongly advise all Kizashi owners to pay close attention to their rear shocks as the failure is due to a design flaw of the bump stopper that was installed on ALL Kizashis regardless of model year or trim. Try to get this covered under warranty if you can. This will very likely be an issue to people who live in regions with a lot of snow.
You're absolutely correct. I read the full tsb today and it showed how everything can be done by just removing the wheel and fender well. In fact, there's a part of me that wants to do it myself since dealerships will tend to reuse those 'do not reuse' nuts and bolts.

You're probably right about the warranty as I forgot it would still be covered. I'm so used to cars that have no warranty and being reliant on myself to make sure everything is working. 8-)

I'm listening for it quite attentively, and it's still more of a clunk than a creak--almost like something is loose. I just realized it could be an almost empty oil container in the trunk. I'm going to remove that and see if the noise continues.

After seeing the repair instructions, I'm not too concerned if ours fail outside of warranty as the work is something I feel comfortable doing. Besides the fact that it would just cost money for the parts.

One thing I was thinking was if the bump stop could be replaced on good shocks as a preventative measure? I'm sure it wouldn't be covered under warranty, but I'm sure the part wouldn't be that much and doing the labor yourself could just save a trip to the dealership for those out of warranty, but not experiencing the problem yet.
 #23250  by ipaqxman
 Sun Jan 05, 2014 5:31 pm
KuroNekko wrote:Here's a photo of my new rear bump stopper. You can see the groove (marked with a red arrow) that is part of the new design to prevent water from collecting and corroding the shock piston rod. Shocks were also replaced as old ones were faulty.
007.JPG


For technical clarification. What is the bump stopper? The yellow housing? And the "shocker" is inside? Sorry for thr ignorance.

After I had mine replaced, I noticed the yellow housing is in different colors, previously dark yellow and now a very light yellow. Is that the same for eveyone else?
 #23251  by ipaqxman
 Sun Jan 05, 2014 5:53 pm
Looking at my service sheet, it stated replacement under warranty with stopper assembly 42250-57L01, instead of the "L03" as listed on the service bulletin. Can the "L01" possibly be the original, uncorrected old stopper? Would someone else mind sharing the service replacement part number
 #23252  by KuroNekko
 Sun Jan 05, 2014 6:41 pm
ipaqxman wrote:
KuroNekko wrote:Here's a photo of my new rear bump stopper. You can see the groove (marked with a red arrow) that is part of the new design to prevent water from collecting and corroding the shock piston rod. Shocks were also replaced as old ones were faulty.
007.JPG


For technical clarification. What is the bump stopper? The yellow housing? And the "shocker" is inside? Sorry for thr ignorance.

After I had mine replaced, I noticed the yellow housing is in different colors, previously dark yellow and now a very light yellow. Is that the same for eveyone else?


It's the part that sits on top of the shock's piston rod. It's the yellow/light yellow part you are talking about. In the photo, I marked a groove in the new bump stopper which is the countermeasure to the water retention problem that was causing the shocks to corrode and fail. The diameter inside the bump stopper was also modified so water evacuates.

ipaqxman wrote:Looking at my service sheet, it stated replacement under warranty with stopper assembly 42250-57L01, instead of the "L03" as listed on the service bulletin. Can the "L01" possibly be the original, uncorrected old stopper? Would someone else mind sharing the service replacement part number


The countermeasure part is 42250-57L03. That's what my service receipt says and it matches the part number in the TSB.
My understanding is that the shocks differ from non-Sport models to Sport models, but the other parts do not. I suggest you look at your rear bump stoppers and see if it has the grooves. If so, then they simply made an error on your service sheet as you have the L03's. The grooves are the key.

SamirD wrote:You're absolutely correct. I read the full tsb today and it showed how everything can be done by just removing the wheel and fender well. In fact, there's a part of me that wants to do it myself since dealerships will tend to reuse those 'do not reuse' nuts and bolts.

You're probably right about the warranty as I forgot it would still be covered. I'm so used to cars that have no warranty and being reliant on myself to make sure everything is working. 8-)

I'm listening for it quite attentively, and it's still more of a clunk than a creak--almost like something is loose. I just realized it could be an almost empty oil container in the trunk. I'm going to remove that and see if the noise continues.

After seeing the repair instructions, I'm not too concerned if ours fail outside of warranty as the work is something I feel comfortable doing. Besides the fact that it would just cost money for the parts.

One thing I was thinking was if the bump stop could be replaced on good shocks as a preventative measure? I'm sure it wouldn't be covered under warranty, but I'm sure the part wouldn't be that much and doing the labor yourself could just save a trip to the dealership for those out of warranty, but not experiencing the problem yet.


They ordered and replaced the nuts and bolts in my car. It's clearly stated on the service sheet. They basically replaced the bump stopper with the countermeasure version, replaced the shocks on both sides, replaced the mounting nuts, and the shock bolts. They appear to have done everything correctly.

This is my first car under warranty as well and I'm used to fixing things myself too. However, I think this is best left for Suzuki to do as it's part of a TSB. Also, trying to find these parts yourself would be difficult and is going to cost you. My dealership did not even have these parts in stock. They had to order them upon seeing the car.

Just keep a close ear to your rear shocks and look around for evidence of shock oil leaks. When you have the signs of shock failure, take it to a Suzuki service dealer and wave the TSB around. It worked for me.
 #23257  by SamirD
 Sun Jan 05, 2014 7:27 pm
KuroNekko wrote:They ordered and replaced the nuts and bolts in my car. It's clearly stated on the service sheet. They basically replaced the bump stopper with the countermeasure version, replaced the shocks on both sides, replaced the mounting nuts, and the shock bolts. They appear to have done everything correctly.

This is my first car under warranty as well and I'm used to fixing things myself too. However, I think this is best left for Suzuki to do as it's part of a TSB. Also, trying to find these parts yourself would be difficult and is going to cost you. My dealership did not even have these parts in stock. They had to order them upon seeing the car.

Just keep a close ear to your rear shocks and look around for evidence of shock oil leaks. When you have the signs of shock failure, take it to a Suzuki service dealer and wave the TSB around. It worked for me.
I've seen part numbers ordered on service orders before that never made it to the car--especially all the nuts and bolts that are 'do not reuse'. I saw brake 'specialists' never replacing the caliper slides when factory service manuals call for it. It's just too many things like this that make me wary to put my trust in anyone but myself. I mean, it's my safety, so ultimately I lose.

But it is of some comfort to know that your service was done right even by a dealership that wasn't an 'A' in your review of them. Most of these assembelies that require replacements come with the replacement nuts/bolts, so it's not like it's an inconvenience unless the tech is lazy.

I've got a few other warranty issues that I'll be bringing up with the dealership like paint chipping on the wheels (known issue), and alignment tsb so hopefully all will go well. They seem to still believe in the Suzuki product as they keep getting inventory of used ones.

I'm going to have to wipe off the boot below the stopper and see if I can differentiate between any new road residue and oil. Hopefully, a trip to HSV will get me away from all this snow and salt long enough to see any differences. Then I'll just bring up the TSB.
 #23262  by ipaqxman
 Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:42 pm
KuroNekko wrote:
ipaqxman wrote:
KuroNekko wrote:Here's a photo of my new rear bump stopper. You can see the groove (marked with a red arrow) that is part of the new design to prevent water from collecting and corroding the shock piston rod. Shocks were also replaced as old ones were faulty.
007.JPG


For technical clarification. What is the bump stopper? The yellow housing? And the "shocker" is inside? Sorry for thr ignorance.

After I had mine replaced, I noticed the yellow housing is in different colors, previously dark yellow and now a very light yellow. Is that the same for eveyone else?


It's the part that sits on top of the shock's piston rod. It's the yellow/light yellow part you are talking about. In the photo, I marked a groove in the new bump stopper which is the countermeasure to the water retention problem that was causing the shocks to corrode and fail. The diameter inside the bump stopper was also modified so water evacuates.

ipaqxman wrote:Looking at my service sheet, it stated replacement under warranty with stopper assembly 42250-57L01, instead of the "L03" as listed on the service bulletin. Can the "L01" possibly be the original, uncorrected old stopper? Would someone else mind sharing the service replacement part number


The countermeasure part is 42250-57L03. That's what my service receipt says and it matches the part number in the TSB.
My understanding is that the shocks differ from non-Sport models to Sport models, but the other parts do not. I suggest you look at your rear bump stoppers and see if it has the grooves. If so, then they simply made an error on your service sheet as you have the L03's. The grooves are the key.

SamirD wrote:You're absolutely correct. I read the full tsb today and it showed how everything can be done by just removing the wheel and fender well. In fact, there's a part of me that wants to do it myself since dealerships will tend to reuse those 'do not reuse' nuts and bolts.

You're probably right about the warranty as I forgot it would still be covered. I'm so used to cars that have no warranty and being reliant on myself to make sure everything is working. 8-)

I'm listening for it quite attentively, and it's still more of a clunk than a creak--almost like something is loose. I just realized it could be an almost empty oil container in the trunk. I'm going to remove that and see if the noise continues.

After seeing the repair instructions, I'm not too concerned if ours fail outside of warranty as the work is something I feel comfortable doing. Besides the fact that it would just cost money for the parts.

One thing I was thinking was if the bump stop could be replaced on good shocks as a preventative measure? I'm sure it wouldn't be covered under warranty, but I'm sure the part wouldn't be that much and doing the labor yourself could just save a trip to the dealership for those out of warranty, but not experiencing the problem yet.


They ordered and replaced the nuts and bolts in my car. It's clearly stated on the service sheet. They basically replaced the bump stopper with the countermeasure version, replaced the shocks on both sides, replaced the mounting nuts, and the shock bolts. They appear to have done everything correctly.

This is my first car under warranty as well and I'm used to fixing things myself too. However, I think this is best left for Suzuki to do as it's part of a TSB. Also, trying to find these parts yourself would be difficult and is going to cost you. My dealership did not even have these parts in stock. They had to order them upon seeing the car.

Just keep a close ear to your rear shocks and look around for evidence of shock oil leaks. When you have the signs of shock failure, take it to a Suzuki service dealer and wave the TSB around. It worked for me.


thanks for the clarification. Guess I have to look for the groove later. I wouldn't be surprised if they just replaced it with a previously stocked / precorrection stopper, as the dealership here really does not care about their work.
 #23282  by murcod
 Mon Jan 06, 2014 7:27 am
Here's an MY11 Australian delivered Kizashi LHS and RHS rear bump stops.

MY11 LHS rear bump stop.jpg
MY11 LHS rear bump stop.jpg (305.43 KiB) Viewed 1321 times


MY11 RHS rear bump stop.jpg
MY11 RHS rear bump stop.jpg (1016.17 KiB) Viewed 1321 times


Clearly no drain hole compared to KuroNekko's pic

download/file.php?id=1739

Yet again, no local TSB appears to be issued. You guys get better support in the USA - even with Suzuki pulling out. :roll:
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