http://www.corksport.com/blog/the-dange ... injection/
All synthetic oils are not created equal. Here in America we are at a disadvantage as to knowing what oils are synthetic and which are not. Due to a loophole in regulations and advertising, companies in America can advertise their group 3 oils (which start life as gasoline and are turned to liquid via hydrocracking) as fully synthetic. Many of these oils such as Royal Purple, Castrol Syntec, Mobil 1 cannot be called synthetic in other parts of the world where these things are taken much more seriously. As such, we recommend group 4 and group 5 oils exclusively. Many oils like Redline, ELF (Total), Amsoil, Torco, and Castrol formulations from Europe are all good examples of this. These oils are so important that every Volkswagen company (VW, Audi, Porsche, Bentley, Lamborghini, etc.) REQUIRE their dealerships to use them exclusively. So when in doubt, you can always have your oil changed at one of those dealerships to make sure you are getting the best quality oil.
Why Oil Matters
Oil is important, but I don't think selecting the very best is as serious as this article makes it seem. Definitely not the case for all cars. I think Group III synthetics are fine for most cars including ours. While Group IV and V are superior, I doubt it does much good in the cost-benefit analysis for most drivers. Not to mention, a number of tests have shown that Group III oils perform nearly as good in valid measurements in how an engine is actually used.
I've heard of VW being very strict on oils, though it's the first time I'm hearing they require Group IV for something like a Jetta. I know they require synthetic, but from my reading, it's because of sludge issues in some of their earlier turbocharged engines. Rather than fix the engine's design, they blamed the oil and demanded synthetic.
It's also the first time I'm reading Royal Purple being considered Group III. I've seen it considered on other numerous sources as a Group IV.
I've heard of VW being very strict on oils, though it's the first time I'm hearing they require Group IV for something like a Jetta. I know they require synthetic, but from my reading, it's because of sludge issues in some of their earlier turbocharged engines. Rather than fix the engine's design, they blamed the oil and demanded synthetic.
It's also the first time I'm reading Royal Purple being considered Group III. I've seen it considered on other numerous sources as a Group IV.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
Agreed. The Kizashi's engine is running on old, but tried technology. It does not even have direct injection. With proper maintenance, these engines should last well into 200,000+ miles.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
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BxKizashiS
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castrol gtx synblend is what i use, works for me... thinking about going to amsoil though, synthetic
2012 Suzuki Kizashi S AWD
H&R Springs, RRM Intake, Magnaflow Custom Exhaust, NRG Bucket Seats, Takata Drift II Harness, Cypher Auto Harness Bar, 25 shot NOS(for now)
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IG: N2OKizashi
H&R Springs, RRM Intake, Magnaflow Custom Exhaust, NRG Bucket Seats, Takata Drift II Harness, Cypher Auto Harness Bar, 25 shot NOS(for now)
Facebook.com/jpreludesi
IG: N2OKizashi
That's a big jump. Amsoil is great oil, but cumbersome to get your hands on. It's either you buy from a dealer or buy directly online. Users tend to swear by it, but I'm just not the type to go out of my way for motor oil.BxKizashiS wrote:castrol gtx synblend is what i use, works for me... thinking about going to amsoil though, synthetic
Royal Purple has been long considered the main rival to Amsoil and they seem to have recently changed their business model or something. Before, it was hard to find, though not as exclusive as Amsoil. Now, you can find RP in Autozone and Walmart much like Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge, etc.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
Royal Purple isn't all that well respected in terms of reliability among those who have turbo cars.
Oil analysis results are never all that great from what I have seen.
Pennzoil Platinum and ultra are usually good.
I just ordered some Pennzoil Ultra Euro L last night. I happened to be cheaper than the regular Pennzoil Ultra.
If I can keep getting it I'll probably keep running the euro stuff. It is suppose to hold up a little better to direct injected turbos.
Oil analysis results are never all that great from what I have seen.
Pennzoil Platinum and ultra are usually good.
I just ordered some Pennzoil Ultra Euro L last night. I happened to be cheaper than the regular Pennzoil Ultra.
If I can keep getting it I'll probably keep running the euro stuff. It is suppose to hold up a little better to direct injected turbos.
I ran it in my WRX. It seemed to hold up a lot better than Mobil 1. I did spin a rod bearing with a fresh change of rotella and it was filled to the full marker.
I think it was driver stupidity and miles on the clock that did that though.
Rotella T6 does not meet the required spec for my new Forester XT. Nor is it the correct weight called for in the manual.
I'm fairly certain it would work just fine, but I don't think anyone is running it yet.
I think it was driver stupidity and miles on the clock that did that though.
Rotella T6 does not meet the required spec for my new Forester XT. Nor is it the correct weight called for in the manual.
I'm fairly certain it would work just fine, but I don't think anyone is running it yet.