Kizashi Club

I have 2010 All wheel drive, CVT, S, 2.4 engine. Sometimes when I press the start button, I here a click under the hood but won't cranks or won't crank in the same day., other times it starts just fine. Sometimes it takes a few days for it to start again. Sometimes it starts or not in the same day. I used a tester light to test the starter while on the car, the light lit up but the starter clicked once. The starter test fine off the car, but I have not found a professional to test it. Any ideas< I need help please.

Can you go to an auto parts store where they can test your battery, starter, and alternator for free like AutoZone, O'Reilly, Napa? If you are still on the original battery, it might need replacing.

@Triggerhappy, The battery and alternator both tested good. Advance Auto tested the alternator, it tested good as well.

I had an old ford pickup that did the same thing and it was always the starter solenoid. I would look into the starter relay or solenoid if it has one.

Also I would check the ground and positive connections on the starter and battery.

All good advice above. That said, many modern autos the solenoid and starter are sold as one unit. Luckily, or not, the solenoid itself is available...not cheap though.

https://suzukicarparts.com/parts/2010/S ... eid=214820

...forgot to mention that I would locate and replace the relatively cheap relay firing the starter solenoid to rule it out before ordering an expensive solenoid. Samurais are notorious for developing a "clicky starter". Problem w/ the Samurai is that there isn't a relay in that starter system (the ignition switch does the work), so the fix is to add a relay. I keep a spare relay in the glove box on my trail rig Samurai because the relays fail w/o warning.

Looks to be item #6 in the link below, but you'll need to ID the correct one:

https://suzukicarparts.com/parts/2010/S ... nent=Relay

I checked all the connections on the starter and battery and put the starter back on. For now the car is starting fine. I'll keep you guys posted if the problem returns. Thanks for the advice.

Great, always good to be operational again. Possibly just compromised connections. However, your relay may still be the root cause of the problem. That cleaning (simply by breaking and making the connections) bit improved current flow. This process used to work, for a while, on my Samurai. Eventually, the problem returned. The contacts in the ignition switch were not of sufficient size or quality to handle 10 years of starter coil energizing duty. Adding a cheap replaceable relay between the ignition switch and starter relieved the ignition switch of the high current draw of the solenoid. All that same ignition switch needs to do now is activate a small relay with very little current draw.

In the meantime, it might benefit you to order in a relay to have at the ready when the problem returns. If battery voltage was confirmed within spec and doesn't fade under load, then it's all about current flow and resistance. Relay contacts deteriorate over time by use, causing resistance, which reduces current flow to the solenoid's coil. That's when you get the click and no crank. The 'cleaning' you did alleviated some resistance. Enough to get it working again, for now. However, the same thing is going on inside the relay. Relay contact is closing, attempting to activate the solenoid but doesn't permit enough current to flow to the solenoid coil to create a strong enough magnetic field to do the work needed to engage the starter. Kinda like tying yourself to a tree and trying to pull it out of the ground. Your grunt when the strap tightens equals the solenoids click. Can't clean the relay contacts (back in the day you could), so you replace it.
Keep in mind that too many attempts at operating the starter's solenoid under those conditions will overheat the solenoid's windings, breaking down the winding's insulation and eventually causing it to fail. Relay is far cheaper than the solenoid, that's why it's there in the first place.

@Ronzuki 4 days in, it's still starting. I will get a starter relay before the problem happens again. I'm convinced the problem lies within the starter relay or solenoid. If it is the solenoid I'm pretty sure I would be better off buying the whole starter, for I haven't seen the solenoid sold separately.

Charles,
Post #6, first link...solenoid only: $179ish (just in case).
Good to hear it's still working for you, free fixes are always the best!