Hi all,
I have a 2010 Kizashi Sport with manual transmission.
I now have just over 90.000 km covered, and I notice my clutch is getting bad.
Is this normal wear? I never had a clutch replaced on my Mitsubishi Galant in 220.000km.
Here is what it does:
Driving at 120 km/h in 6th, when I push the gas pedal fiercely down the revs go up (from 3000 to 4500 rpm), but no gain in speed at first. Then it speeds up a little, revs come down a bit, and then it 'acts normal.
Also when accelerating from stand still a little more 'powerfull' than I usually do, it happens in 1st and 2nd as well: revs go up faster than the car speeds up, then fall back.
Any ideas on cause and or costs involved?
Thanks a lot in advance!
(oh btw, it got 90.000 service two weeks ago -> can it be my dealer messed up something?)
Manual transmission: clutch replacement at 90.000 km?
Can't think of anything they could have done to cause it to not release fully, but I'd certainly take it back and get them to flush and bleed the clutch system.
Now that it has been slipping it's probably finished, there's a lot of heat generated when they're slipping like that. That's not normal wear at all, I'd expect a clutch to last 300K km.
Now that it has been slipping it's probably finished, there's a lot of heat generated when they're slipping like that. That's not normal wear at all, I'd expect a clutch to last 300K km.
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My experience on how long a clutch lasts is it depends on how it's driven. My brother-in-law on his first manual, a early 90's era Civic had to have his replaced as 40K miles. Since you have a Gallant with 220K on it, I'd say it's NOT you and it certainly sounds like clutch wear. Usually if the hydraulic systems needs bleeding, you have difficulty putting her in reverse and may get grinding between gears as the clutch is not releasing fully.
2011 Kizashi SLS CVT (silver)
2005 Honda Odyssey
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2005 Honda Odyssey
Priors:
2009 Suzuki SX4 Cross AWD 5-speed Tech package (vapor metallic blue)
Thanks both for your thoughts.
The difficulty with getting in reverse it had since I bought it ....
It was 3 years old an 40.000 km when I bought it, so I do not know what the previous owner did.
It was serviced on time, by official dealers, always.
Today, I could not reproduce the issue on the road.
I'll be monitoring this and let you know if there is any news.
The difficulty with getting in reverse it had since I bought it ....
It was 3 years old an 40.000 km when I bought it, so I do not know what the previous owner did.
It was serviced on time, by official dealers, always.
Today, I could not reproduce the issue on the road.
I'll be monitoring this and let you know if there is any news.
It sounds like the clutch is going out. It gets worse when it's heated up. My former Mazda3 had symptoms very similar to your car when the clutch was nearly out. You have to be careful because once it's out, it will really go nowhere and you'll need a tow.
As for the cause, your second post revealed that you're the second owner. This is a big factor because you don't know how the first owner drove the car. Most clutches will last at least 100,000 miles (160,000 km) with normal driving and often much longer. However, if someone doesn't operate a clutch properly, they can wear it out much faster. This is often seen with people who are driving their first manual car so they learned on that vehicle. People who ride their clutch (keep their left foot rested slightly on the released clutch pedal) burn through clutches quickly. Given it sounds like you are an experienced manual driver, I think the previous owner is the likely culprit of the premature clutch wear.
As for the cause, your second post revealed that you're the second owner. This is a big factor because you don't know how the first owner drove the car. Most clutches will last at least 100,000 miles (160,000 km) with normal driving and often much longer. However, if someone doesn't operate a clutch properly, they can wear it out much faster. This is often seen with people who are driving their first manual car so they learned on that vehicle. People who ride their clutch (keep their left foot rested slightly on the released clutch pedal) burn through clutches quickly. Given it sounds like you are an experienced manual driver, I think the previous owner is the likely culprit of the premature clutch wear.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
How many miles on your car did you change the trans oil? Im afraid to change and possibly facilitate some slippage. Im only at 11,000 right now- Is it true you never need to change the trans oil for manual transmission cars?
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Worrying about slippage after a transmission fluid change makes no sense. There are some who believe that severely neglected automatic transmissions may be better off not getting flushed due to the possibility of a clog, but that's still faulty logic.JamesFen wrote:How many miles on your car did you change the trans oil? Im afraid to change and possibly facilitate some slippage. Im only at 11,000 right now- Is it true you never need to change the trans oil for manual transmission cars?
As for manual transmissions, you certainly need to change the trans oil and the owner's manual lays out the interval.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
I took the car to 104.000 km before finally deciding to have the clutch investigated. It did not get substantially worse in the meantime, but clutch pedal stroke was very few in the end.
It turned out that the gearbox prise shaft sealing had failed, spilling transmission oil on the clutch(plates).
As it is a full set, clutch plates, pressure bearing and pressure group have all been replaced. And the seal of course.
It turned out that the gearbox prise shaft sealing had failed, spilling transmission oil on the clutch(plates).
As it is a full set, clutch plates, pressure bearing and pressure group have all been replaced. And the seal of course.
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