Car Jumping when switching into Drive or Reverse Gear

Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
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KuroNekko
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Woodie wrote:I guess I'll have to check before making such a rash claim, but there has been for the past 40 years or so.
I'm quite sure it's still there. I noticed it recently but don't recall if it was on my Kizashi or another vehicle I was looking at.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
bdleonard
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:39 am

KuroNekko wrote:
Woodie wrote:I guess I'll have to check before making such a rash claim, but there has been for the past 40 years or so.
I'm quite sure it's still there. I noticed it recently but don't recall if it was on my Kizashi or another vehicle I was looking at.
The emission sticker is on the underside of the hood in the Kizashi, however it does not list any idle RPM. Presumably due to being fully computer controlled. The sticker only states "no adjustments needed". There are idle specs in the service manual, but no indication of what the cold idle / warmup curve looks like.
Warmed up:
A/C OFF: 600 – 700 rpm (IAC throttle opening: 10 – 20%)
A/C ON: 700 – 800 rpm (IAC throttle opening: 15 – 25%)
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Woodie
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bdleonard wrote:The emission sticker is on the underside of the hood in the Kizashi, however it does not list any idle RPM. Presumably due to being fully computer controlled. The sticker only states "no adjustments needed". There are idle specs in the service manual, but no indication of what the cold idle / warmup curve looks like.
Warmed up:
A/C OFF: 600 – 700 rpm (IAC throttle opening: 10 – 20%)
A/C ON: 700 – 800 rpm (IAC throttle opening: 15 – 25%)
Oops, my bad. Sticker is still there, just no longer carries the information I was referring to.

Thanks bdleonard
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Ronzuki
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bdleonard wrote: The sticker only states "no adjustments needed".
Kinda like the transmissions and "no service required" huh? That's just what the gov-gods want everyone to be brain-washed in to thinking :roll: ...say it often enough and it must be fact. Funny how when one has the tools and ability to get in to an ECM and play around, dyno-proven gains can be had.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
bdleonard
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:39 am

Ronzuki wrote:
bdleonard wrote: The sticker only states "no adjustments needed".
Kinda like the transmissions and "no service required" huh? That's just what the gov-gods want everyone to be brain-washed in to thinking :roll: ...say it often enough and it must be fact. Funny how when one has the tools and ability to get in to an ECM and play around, dyno-proven gains can be had.
Its not really like the transmission it all. The "no maintenance transmission" has physical things (filters / fluids / clutches / gears / etc) that degrade over time in a way that simply can't be compensated for mechanically/electronically beyond a certain point, and is basically a line manufacturers use to reduce projected service costs during the warranty and initial ownership period (and if you're a touch sleazy, maybe you project to increase sales / service revenue after the warranty period).

What they are saying here is that the ECM monitors and manages the idle rpm and ignition timing in real time as necessary, and there are physically no under hood adjustments. There is no air bleed screw to adjust the idle, there is no distributor to rotate to change the ignition timing. So there is no need for the mechanic (or owner) to adjust these things to spec, since the ECM keeps them in spec all of the time. I am slightly surprised they don't put the spec for those under the hood so they can be readily checked (basically 700+-100 RPM for the idle, 5+-3 degrees BTDC at idle for the timing).
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Ronzuki
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bdleonard wrote: ...since the ECM keeps them in spec all of the time. I am slightly surprised they don't put the spec for those under the hood so they can be readily checked (basically 700+-100 RPM for the idle, 5+-3 degrees BTDC at idle for the timing).
Exactly my point, and, very much like the transmission. black box, don't need to touch it or do anything, right? Automation never fails, it's magic and it just happens. When any of it fails (out of warranty of course, or even in warranty) then we know nothing about any of it. Mission accomplished...one way or another, spend lots more money either buying another car or throwing it at solving the problem.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
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KuroNekko
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:08 pm
Location: California, USA

I recall seeing the idle and advance timing specs in the owner's manual.
Having messed around with an old school distributor for idle and timing adjustments in the VW bus, I strongly prefer modern systems. In fact, a common upgrade in old air-cooled VWs is to replace the distributor's points with an electronic ignition module for more accurate and reliable ignition which results in more consistent power and better fuel efficiency.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
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