Kizashi Club

Your Kizashi Owners Club and Forum 

Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
NOTE: Any car related technical question can be posted here.
 #48622  by BarkMarker
 Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:14 am
old tech wrote:Did you find and fix the noise maker ? If you need a part to repair it, I have it I'm sure.

unfortunately no, I am thinking clogged oil passage (s) and unfortunately the noise is getting nothing but worse. Doing another change to see if I can get anymore gunk out. I'm really pleased to hear you have parts, but I'm afraid I need this car as a daily, so my work has been focused on minimal disassembly. I think it is likely a clogged oil passage to the lifters. As for the appropriate way to clear that, I am completely clueless. Throwing more snake oil in it probably isn't going to fix anything, but it's the best I can do right now. When I had the valve cover off I sucked the sludge with a shop vac and a little tube. I was weary about opening up the pan in fear that I would be asking for a liquid gasket leak when I tried to seal it back up. Has anyone taken pics in the crank case? I'm thinking about sticking an inspection cam in there, and it would be nice to compare
 #48626  by Ronzuki
 Tue Jan 08, 2019 5:11 pm
High oil pressure would indicate a clog (or clogs) in the system. Guessing there's a clog and confirming there's a clog.... Don't know about the Kiz's engine, but the Samurai's engine had a plug in the side of the block, accessing the pressure journal, for bleeding air to prime the oil pump (a procedure in the FSM after installing a new oil pump). Also made for a nice place to tie in a mechanical pressure gauge. I'm sure the Kiz's FSM would list min-max pressure limits for reference. If one of these plugs accessing a pressure journal wasn't engineered in the the Kiz's engine block, then the next best place to attach a gauge would be there port where the low pressure sender for the idiot light is located. The FSM may even have info on where/how to mechanically test oil pressure, or, a similar procedure as the Sami's for replacing an oil pump..

Also, you can try the low-tech approach of pulling the valve cover off and firing it up to see if you are getting oil up to the cam/rockers.
 #48627  by BarkMarker
 Tue Jan 08, 2019 6:14 pm
Ronzuki wrote:Also, you can try the low-tech approach of pulling the valve cover off and firing it up to see if you are getting oil up to the cam/rockers.

I will look into checking oil pressure. I had the head off and when turning it over it definitely was oiling them, I'm not sure if enough, but each was getting wetted.

I'm getting more and more worried that my problem may have spread now. I am getting a noise that I would say sounds a lot like rod knock. I tried disconnecting each spark plugs and while the engine was running to see if any cylinders made the problem better or worse, and unfortunately nothing definitive. That makes me think that either all the rods are shot (possible, but not likely) or the problem is still something else all together.

Anyone want to buy a 2012 kizashi with 146000? A beautiful body and interior, transmission seems tight, just a nasty engine problem. Make an offer :facepalm:
 #48628  by KuroNekko
 Tue Jan 08, 2019 6:27 pm
Honestly, try Auto-RX. It was literally made for the purpose of removing sludge and isn't snake oil given it's probably the highest praised product over on BITOG, right up there with Amsoil motor oil. Go visit BITOG if you need some legitimacy on the site and the product.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

You claim you want to remove sludge from oil passages. Auto-RX is probably the best thing made for that purpose and better than anything you can find on shelves in stores or concoct yourself. I even recall a review written by a guy with a Suzuki Sidekick with the same issue: bought car used with sludge issues. He ran Auto-RX and it cleaned out the sludge better than he imagined, quieting the engine and restoring performance beyond expectations.

While the engine could have other issues, you know from removing the valve cover that sludge is definitely a problem. I'd start attacking the known problem first. Really, what's there to lose other than the nominal cost of Auto-RX compared to offloading the car at a much bigger loss now that the engine issue is obvious to anyone?
 #48642  by Camel
 Thu Jan 10, 2019 1:21 am
I had a similar problem with a Kia, ex-rental low-mileage but oil was never changed. The oil had become a treacle-like sludge and caused blow-by. Had to remove it mechanically. I also build a lot of Hayabusa engines, if there's oil issues, the first thing to let go is the big-end. My suggestion (for what its worth) is to try and pin point the sound using a stethoscope (a large screwdriver will suffice), if it's near the valves it could be valve clearance, it it's low, could be big-end. Best way to confirm is to do an oil pressure test. If it's low and doesn't rise appreciably with revs, then I'd be pulling the engine down before it becomes catastrophic. Good luck!
 #48643  by Camel
 Thu Jan 10, 2019 1:23 am
Don't run the engine with kerosene, the big ends and mains will definitely fail. Not straight away, but you'll loose too much metal, the oil pump won't generate sufficient pressure to lift the crank off the bearings.
 #48654  by LPSISRL
 Thu Jan 10, 2019 4:36 pm
What is the "big-end"? Please enlighten the ignorant.
 #48655  by Ronzuki
 Thu Jan 10, 2019 6:54 pm
LPSISRL wrote:What is the "big-end"? Please enlighten the ignorant.


Bottom end...short block assembly....block casting, crank, rods, bearings, pistons.
 #48658  by Camel
 Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:46 pm
Sorry, Aussie vernacular. Big-end means that part of the connecting rod which attaches to the crankshaft, i.e. the 'big end' of the conrod.