Kizashi Club

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Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
NOTE: Any car related technical question can be posted here.
 #50294  by SSHREST4
 Thu Aug 15, 2019 1:40 am
Hello Everyone,
I have a 2012 Suzuki Kizashi AWD and I have some serious issues with the car recently. I posted for help in another group but nobody responded. So I am hoping to get some help here.

ISSUE: The car was having a jerk effect on ideal (everting is fine while driving). I could notice it and so did the person on the passenger side. This was happening for a few days and I searched online and found that high humidity and hot weather can sometimes mess up with sensors, which I was convinced of as I recently moved near the ocean and the summer is like 100F with 80 to 90% humidity sometimes. Also, there was no check engine light on and the OBD2 reader gave no errors.

But, today I had some serious trouble. I was driving the car and then suddenly the front cabin lights, all went off and back on again. Every record about my average miles remaining, average speed and others were gone and they started again. The clock got reset to 12:00. After I parked the car and hit the lock button on my key, the car did not lock at all. I then start the car (start is good), the check engine light came on. I scanned with OBD2 reader and I got this (Detected Problems: Control Module- Code: P062F). I checked online after coming home and saw that this can be one of the expensive repairs for the car. I also found that this code can come by not replacing a car battery. I checked the car battery and it was manufactured in 2005. My question is, do I change my battery or what? I changed my air filter yesterday thinking it might solve the issue, as I was thinking the jerk on the car was because of less airflow which did not help.
The reason I am worried is that I have a trip coming soon for which I must use the car. The trip is around 1200 miles and I just want to be out of trouble before I take it to drive.

Please everyone can you advise me anything. This is my first car and I really love it. It would be not good for me to sell it if its a minor issue.

The car currently has 128K miles on it.
 #50295  by KuroNekko
 Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:16 am
It does sound like you have a bad battery but when the car engine is on, the alternator should provide enough electricity to keep the vehicle powered. Perhaps your alternator is failing too. However, you should probably replace that battery before worrying about the alternator. In my experience, the Kizashi's electrical power at idle is underwhelming thus I had to install capacitors for my LED and HID headlight bulbs to keep them from flickering at idle, especially with the stereo on and a dash cam installed. A strong new battery should supplement the electrical needs of the vehicle at idle so I'd try replacing that first.
 #50302  by Woodie
 Thu Aug 15, 2019 12:07 pm
5 years is a pretty common lifespan for a car battery, but the sudden nature of your problem does not sound like battery to me. When the car is running the battery isn't really doing much as KuroNekko suggested.

If everything went off and you lost all memory that's a total power failure, sounds more like a bad electrical connection somewhere.
 #50304  by LPSISRL
 Thu Aug 15, 2019 9:01 pm
Most auto parts stores will do an electrical system check for free and let you know the condition of both the battery and charging system.
 #50308  by bdleonard
 Fri Aug 16, 2019 4:08 am
SSHREST4 wrote:I just checked my battery and it says 11 Volts on rest. That's an issue right cause standard is 12.xx volt. I tested using an OBD2 reader


Battery voltage at rest should be 12.5 or so volts. You can check that with a voltmeter at the battery itself, with the car off. With the care running the voltage at the battery should be around 14 volts. If voltage at the battery is OK in both cases, look for corrosion on the battery cables and terminals that would reduce the voltage getting in to the car (and clean appropriately if needed). A load test of the battery would also be telling, but you'll need a load tester or a parts store / shop to check it for you.

All that said, if the battery has never been replaced it is probably overdue at this point. The factory battery in the Kizashi was not particularly long lived.
 #50322  by KuroNekko
 Sun Aug 18, 2019 5:11 pm
SSHREST4 wrote:I just checked my battery and it says 11 Volts on rest. That's an issue right cause standard is 12.xx volt. I tested using an OBD2 reader


11 volts is a zombie battery. Dead, but somehow functional. So yes, you need a new battery.
"12 volt batteries" are largely called that for their nominal voltage. One in great condition should have more than 13 volts when read with a multimeter.
 #50325  by bdleonard
 Mon Aug 19, 2019 2:08 pm
KuroNekko wrote:
SSHREST4 wrote:I just checked my battery and it says 11 Volts on rest. That's an issue right cause standard is 12.xx volt. I tested using an OBD2 reader


11 volts is a zombie battery. Dead, but somehow functional. So yes, you need a new battery.
"12 volt batteries" are largely called that for their nominal voltage. One in great condition should have more than 13 volts when read with a multimeter.


My only hesitance would be that they read the voltage using an ODB2 adapter, and not with a meter at the battery itself. A corroded wire or terminal could cause the voltage in the rest of the vehicle to be low, even if the battery itself is nominally OK. Though I agree with you and strongly suspect the battery even without double checking.
 #50326  by KuroNekko
 Mon Aug 19, 2019 2:37 pm
bdleonard wrote:
KuroNekko wrote:
SSHREST4 wrote:I just checked my battery and it says 11 Volts on rest. That's an issue right cause standard is 12.xx volt. I tested using an OBD2 reader


11 volts is a zombie battery. Dead, but somehow functional. So yes, you need a new battery.
"12 volt batteries" are largely called that for their nominal voltage. One in great condition should have more than 13 volts when read with a multimeter.


My only hesitance would be that they read the voltage using an ODB2 adapter, and not with a meter at the battery itself. A corroded wire or terminal could cause the voltage in the rest of the vehicle to be low, even if the battery itself is nominally OK. Though I agree with you and strongly suspect the battery even without double checking.


Yes, I agree about the OBD2 part, but I really think that the battery is at fault due to condition.
 #50327  by Ronzuki
 Mon Aug 19, 2019 3:43 pm
bdleonard wrote:
KuroNekko wrote:
SSHREST4 wrote:I just checked my battery and it says 11 Volts on rest. That's an issue right cause standard is 12.xx volt. I tested using an OBD2 reader


11 volts is a zombie battery. Dead, but somehow functional. So yes, you need a new battery.
"12 volt batteries" are largely called that for their nominal voltage. One in great condition should have more than 13 volts when read with a multimeter.


My only hesitance would be that they read the voltage using an ODB2 adapter, and not with a meter at the battery itself. A corroded wire or terminal could cause the voltage in the rest of the vehicle to be low, even if the battery itself is nominally OK. Though I agree with you and strongly suspect the battery even without double checking.


I agree, battery. These cars are still to young to be experiencing electrical corrosion issues of the sort that would cause the OBD-II to read 11V unless, of course, the car was a victim of a flood or very poorly repaired damage due to an accident.