Kizashi Club

In the 4 model year span of the Kizashi, there has been 3 different dipsticks . To avoid issues overheat and or whining noise the latest stick should be used or your current stick marked at the revised level. Here is a picture of all 3

The latest and greatest stick has cuts instead of holes. It’s full hot mark measures 14 3/8 down from the end of the molded section. There has been 2 pans. 2010 and 2011 got the more shallow pan , same as all years of the cvt equipped sx4s. The 2012-13 Kizashis got a little deeper pan that Jatco was already using on the Altimas. If you upgrade to the deeper pan , be sure to also change to the longer snout pickup screen/ filter . The proper filter here seems only available from Suzuki but you can use a filter listed for the 2012 Altima and it will work just fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Right Stick Is For Last Model Of Kizashi? 2012-2013?

My 2013 Have Stick With Holes, That Indicate The Transmission Was Changed For 2010/2011 Model

Quimicax wrote:The Right Stick Is For Last Model Of Kizashi? 2012-2013?

As I recall, due to the deeper pan the 2012/2013 would come with the longer stick, pictured on the left. The TSB about the pan / stick was around here somewhere. I'll see if I can hunt it down.

EDIT: See attached. The longer dipstick goes with the new, deeper, pan

bdleonard wrote:

Quimicax wrote:The Right Stick Is For Last Model Of Kizashi? 2012-2013?

As I recall, due to the deeper pan the 2012/2013 would come with the longer stick, pictured on the left. The TSB about the pan / stick was around here somewhere. I'll see if I can hunt it down.

EDIT: See attached. The longer dipstick goes with the new, deeper, pan

I Now But My Trans Have Normal Pan Maybe Original Trans Dead Around 120K Miles ~

Quimicax wrote:

bdleonard wrote:

Quimicax wrote:The Right Stick Is For Last Model Of Kizashi? 2012-2013?

As I recall, due to the deeper pan the 2012/2013 would come with the longer stick, pictured on the left. The TSB about the pan / stick was around here somewhere. I'll see if I can hunt it down.

EDIT: See attached. The longer dipstick goes with the new, deeper, pan

I Now But My Trans Have Normal Pan Maybe Original Trans Dead Around 120K Miles ~

The longer dipstick still has the holes. So without measuring it, I can't see enough in your picture to tell

Thank you bdleonard for that tsb . I knew Jatco tried to fix the over temp situation a couple times but I never had access to the tsb s . The first time it was to slightly raise level with dipstick with cuts then . So The next change was done at 2012 model year with that deeper pan and actually lowering the level with the longer stick. Hmmm. I guess I just assumed the change to deeper pan was done to add more volume thus making temp more stable. Using deeper pan, longer filter and the stick with the cuts has worked very well for me so far. I figure it gives me an extra quart.

old tech wrote:Thank you bdleonard for that tsb . I knew Jatco tried to fix the over temp situation a couple times but I never had access to the tsb s . The first time it was to slightly raise level with dipstick with cuts then . So The next change was done at 2012 model year with that deeper pan and actually lowering the level with the longer stick. Hmmm. I guess I just assumed the change to deeper pan was done to add more volume thus making temp more stable. Using deeper pan, longer filter and the stick with the cuts has worked very well for me so far. I figure it gives me an extra quart.

My understanding is that the deeper pan and longer pickup and stick were to drop the fluid level relative to the inner workings to prevent fluid aeration that tended to occur on the earlier versions. In the early version, if they were slightly overfilled, my understanding is that under certain conditions the CVT belt and pulleys had a tendency to drag through and aerate the fluid and could cause a loss of pump pressure. The deeper pan let them keep the same fluid volume, while avoiding that issue. It also means that newer version would need to be extremely overfilled (according to the newer longer stick) before there would be a possible aeration problem.

something worth to mention is that in order to measure cvt fluid level properly these conditions needed
1- CVT temp (70 – 80 °C (158 – 176 °F))
2- lever in P position
3- car parked on level ground.
3- engine should be ON and idling and AC OFF
then read gauge
CVT fluid level should between the low hot and high hot.

SAEED_KIZZY wrote:something worth to mention is that in order to measure cvt fluid level properly these conditions needed
1- CVT temp (70 – 80 °C (158 – 176 °F))
2- lever in P position
3- car parked on level ground.
3- engine should be ON and idling and AC OFF
then read Gause
CVT fluid level should between the low hot and high hot.

More Close To High Hot According To The Last TBS Transmission TS 01 07067