Kizashi Club

My 2012 Kizashi Sport AWD (Canadian / Automatic version) with 140 000 km did not want to start this morning. Could not boost it. Towed it to Canadian Tire. Was told by tech. manager that it's probably the timing chain that needs to be replaced (after they did some compression testing). I was advised that they have to remove the motor engine to check the timing chain visually. Is that true? I basically did not have any issue with this car since I bought it new and all of the sudden it will cost me 4000-5000$ if I need to change the motor and the timing chain...I am kind of panicking here...lol any advice???

If needed , the timing chain can be changed in the vehicle. The chain condition and timing can be checked with just the valve cover off. I , myself havent needed to replace one yet but the usual indication of chain stretch is an engine code for cam-crank correlation. These engines are near bullet proof with proper oil changes and your mileage is too low for me to buy in to that scenario. Have you changed oil regularly and often enough? Did you have a check engine light on with engine running before this no start ? Were the engine codes read ? Did you try holding accelerator pedal down 1/4 while attempting to start ?I It could be that the throttle body is so built up with gunk that its making a perfect seal and not letting any air in to make compression and the tech is hearing a low compression situation , wrongly blaming an innocent chain. This is a drive by wire so if it doesnt start by moving the pedal, you may want to look for blade movement while someone moves the pedal with key on.If you still have trouble, give me some codes.... Hope this helps.

Agree with old tech. To go from running fine to not running at all and blaming the chain doesn't sound right. See if there are any codes or pending codes although I'd think the shop would have done that first. Add the fact that they didn't know that the chain could be changed without pulling the engine and not even checking with the valve cover off wouldn't instill a bunch of confidence in the shop that has it.

Thanks for the quick reply guys! Really appreciated. That's what bugs me...there was no sign of anything the previous day when I drove it. No code or anything when it would not start. I am going to the shop today to check what they have done exactly. I'll print what you guys said and go from there. I had oil change every 5-6000 km since the beginning with genuine Suzuki filters and the right oil for my specs provided by Midas.

So do you guys know how to replace the timing chain without removing the engine ? Or is it possible to check if the engine needs to be replaced without removing it completely?

So attended the shop....they completed both dry and wet compression test. All tested at around 50 psi therefore the motor is possibly fine. Nothing was flooded with gas and the throttle would not be clogged. The first thing to do in the service manual is to remove the engine to access the timing chain and be able to remove it... they will then perform a leak test and determine if I need to change the engine... According to the service manager, they cannot do otherwise than removing the engine first to check the timing chain....we did not talk about codes at all.

Im scared for you. Checking codes should be on the top of the list after verifying complaint. The valve timing can most certainly be checked by a valve cover removal and the front cover can be removed in the car after removing 2 studs. Ive replaced or repaired cylinder heads on 2 kizashi engines after overheat, in the vehicle, both having serious miles on them and on both I reused the chain. Im talking 160k miles or more. In a case of chain stretch, it should have logged a cam / crank correlation code and poor running long before a chain will jump on one of these engines . Also, the tensioner for the chain is a rachteting type that further protects your wallet against chain jump. The throttle body should be propted open during the compression test. Also it should be checked that there is air is being expelled out the tail pipe during the test also. One good take away from their wet/ dry compression test is your rings are great and there is no bent or burned valves.

FrankoLaMoya wrote:All tested at around 50 psi therefore the motor is possibly fine.

I'm not understanding this. Compression is supposed to be 200 psi.

The compression is supposed to be between 100 and 150 psi depending on the vehicle apparently.

So is there a way to replace the timing chain without removing the motor?? It's not clear sorry I am not mechanically inclined at all lol

I am for sure the chain replacement can be done in the car. As far as the compression readings, its being reported that they are all even with no prior concerns such as oil useage and little to no difference wet and dry so the rings are great. You know the valves are not burned or bent because again compression is even. If we can trust the compression gauge reading and the engine is able to freely breathe in out ( no clogged cat , ice cube or potato shoved up the exhaust) then it would have to be a slip in the cam to crank timing. I would verify all this with using a different compression gauge and blocking open the throttle body blade. If its still just 50psi then pull the valve cover and inspect the chain movement while turning crank bolt back and forth . Check to see if variable cam timing gear is locked where it should be and also the actual cam timing can at least be checked or compared to a good one . As far as the actual compression
number , there isnt really a spec but I would expect and hope to see all even and between 120 -180