Does anybody know what size the Banjo Bolts are on the Kizashi's rear breake calipers?
Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 1:32 am
by AirRideFan
I need to order some new banjo bolts- (because I want to order the ones that have the the bleeder nipple BUILT-IN - as I snapped the exterior part of the one of the rear caliper bleeder nipples off on my car)
DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHAT SIZE THE BANJO BOLTS ARE THE KIZASH ? M10x1.25 ???
Re: Does anybody know what size the Banjo Bolts are on the Kizashi's rear breake calipers?
Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 12:37 pm
by old tech
AirRideFan wrote: ↑Wed Jun 23, 2021 1:32 am
I need to order some new banjo bolts- (because I want to order the ones that have the the bleeder nipple BUILT-IN - as I snapped the exterior part of the one of the rear caliper bleeder nipples off on my car)
DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHAT SIZE THE BANJO BOLTS ARE THE KIZASH ? M10x1.25 ???
10x1.0 for sure. I wouldnt worry about replacing though, I hold caliper with line bolt cracked and straight up while winding piston back in a little and slowly until no more air.
Re: Does anybody know what size the Banjo Bolts are on the Kizashi's rear breake calipers?
AirRideFan wrote: ↑Wed Jun 23, 2021 1:32 am
I need to order some new banjo bolts- (because I want to order the ones that have the the bleeder nipple BUILT-IN - as I snapped the exterior part of the one of the rear caliper bleeder nipples off on my car)
DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHAT SIZE THE BANJO BOLTS ARE THE KIZASH ? M10x1.25 ???
10x1.0 for sure. I wouldnt worry about replacing though, I hold caliper with line bolt cracked and straight up while winding piston back in a little and slowly until no more air.
WOW--- old tech, you're awesome! I just found this out, by checking at Ace Hardware (man, I love that store!) --- 10x1.0 indeed. Well, I just need to bleed the brakes, since I have air in the line now-- so FOR NOW--- I'm just going to put my old (REAR, left) caliper back on with it's jacked up rubber boot - and it's one bolt on the bracket that seems to be stripped (it won't get TIGHT - the one bolt that holds the caliper on just keeps turning--- so I'm going to use some locktite- so I can enjoy the bluetooth and nice stereo in the Kiz --- my old 1998 Sebring LXi coupe that I just picked up is in the middle of a big overhaul---- It wasn't too enjoyable taking too/from work and running errands with it (despite it's insanely low 49k miles!)
I'm just going to put my old (REAR, left) caliper back on with it's jacked up rubber boot - and it's one bolt on the bracket that seems to be stripped (it won't get TIGHT - the one bolt that holds the caliper on just keeps turning--- so I'm going to use some locktite on the old crappy caliper (just so I can temporarily use the car the next few days)
Sooooo quick update--- I decided to TRY THIS: and keep the caliper that doesn't have the continuously-turning bolts that keep the dang caliper ON THE CAR, instead.
Annnndddd.... the verdict is --- it DIDKIND'VE/SORT'VE work---- but not 100% ---
Never tried this method before --- but probably a lot better for a DIRT BIKE and not a street-legal car/truck, ha. I thing I took a little too long to connect the brake line and tighten the banjo bolt on the caliper (which I held sideways, like this guy said to do and had previously slowly pre-filled with brake fluid).
Before tonight, the pedal was going to the floor and I had ZERO brake power. Now it's about 75% better than it was. I just took the car around the block and it has close to the normal braking power (maybe 75%) ... however, if I SLAM them quickly -it stops as good as a perfect-example of a 1980's economy car. hah
I also didn't get the e-brake connected on the (rear left) side I had this problem with---- I need to go BACK to U-Pull-and-Pay and get another little CLIP that holds that emergency brake cable in there. What a damn nightmare. lol
Anyway--- Old Tech--- if I do order one of these banjo bolts with the built-in bleeder nipple (I also attached a photo) Here's a stainless one I found on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203431871960?h ... Sw3LxfUNFn [ instead of trying to carefully remove or drill out the broken bleeder bolt ]---- will I have to bleed all bleed each corner of the car or just the rear ?