Service engine, hill hold disabled & ESP error messages FIX

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Oleksandr
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue May 14, 2019 3:09 pm

Brief:
3 error messages on dash: service engine, hill hold disabled & ESP disabled (error codes C1122, P2119, C1091) are signs of voltage drop. Replace your battery.

Full story:
Hello.
Recently I had an issue with Kizashi when engine started as usual and I received 3 error messages on dash: service engine, hill hold disabled & ESP disabled.
I couldn`t find any information on this set of issues anywhere online so I started asking mechanics about possible cause but no one seems to know what to do exactly in this situation and how easy it actually is to fix.
Car drove just fine, engine worked flawlessly so I decided to keep driving (night, outskirts of a city that I don't now much about, 150 km away from home). Dropped off my friends at a train station and then I couldn't start the engine. Car was cranking just fine, engine started for a moment and then turned off automatically. It repeated multiple times. After letting car cool down a bit (around 20 minutes) it started again (with same errors on dash). I drove it home and left it there for a night.
Next day car wouldn`t start. I connected diagnostic adapater (ELM327) and found 3 main DTCs:
C1122: Engine speed signal circuit failure; Engine Speed Signal Malfunction - Current
P2119: Throtle actuator control throttle body range/performance - Current
C1091: ECM data in CAN line failure; CAN invalid Date from ECM - Current

At that moment I tried reaching for throttle body and ensuring that it is not stuck, checking wiring for throttle body and crankshaft sensor, ordered new crankshaft sensor.
A few more start attempts later car started acting like it was not getting enough current from battery, just a moment of engine cranking and then everything goes dark for a couple of seconds. I checked battery, it was 12.8V which should be enough for start. I tried loading it with headlights, radio, A/C and voltage was not dropping so I assumed it was fine. Next thought was shorted starter motor which consumed too many amps. Reaching starter motor looked like a job for next day.

Next morning I decided to test battery hypothesis again by jump starting it from another car. I connected good battery in parallel with cables, car cranked a little bit longer but still no start. Wires got warm so I thought it was a sign that high current went through but something had even higher current consumption (possibly shorted starter motor).

Two mechanics came to look at a car but couldn`t point out at actual cause, only offered wiring checks, replacement of throttle body, crankshaft sensor and possibly ECM.

Desperate and with bad mood I left car for one more day.

After some rest and research I found that very rarely car batteries encounter an issue called internal circuit break (micro crack in one of connections between battery banks). This issue makes car battery work fine under low and medium loads (capacity remains high) but under high current load this crack spreads and connection suddenly interrupts, voltage drops to 0V. Right after the load is removed (cranking stops) voltage comes back to normal and battery is ready to be tested with simple handheld tools and pass.

This was the cause of an issue in my case. New battery and clearing of stored error codes brought car back to life.
Car used genuine SUZUKI battery manufactured by Moratti (produced in 2015).

Now I know that Kizashi requires very good battery as it not only cranks the engine during start but also performs many tests during this brief period when battery load is at its peak.

P. S.: You might ask why jump starting didn`t help and honestly saying it bothered me too. Explanation was found when I looked at jumper cables crimping. Conductor turned out to be copper coated aluminium of small gauge (but thick insulation) and it was crimped so badly that it couldnt transfer more than a few tens of amps. I guess that chinese manufacturers worry about users so much that they don't want you to share with anyone else too many amps when someone asks for a jump start.
User avatar
KuroNekko
Posts: 5170
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:08 pm
Location: California, USA

Thanks for the details but this topic has come up before. The Kizashi can be very dramatic when the only issue is a weak, dying battery. I've seen this happen myself and when the car fails to start properly more than once in a short duration, I suspect the battery immediately despite any of the other lights or codes. Simple things first. My 2011 Kizashi has 107,000 miles and it's on its third battery. The 2nd crapped out early and was replaced under warranty.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
Oleksandr
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue May 14, 2019 3:09 pm

This issue happened to me again yesterday. Brand new battery, 5 months since manufacturing date, only been used for 1 month. Battery voltage is 12,7V. Same errors, same issues (engine cranks but slowly shuts off after a moment). Car came back to life after 20 minutes of disconnecting negative cable from car battery terminal. Cleared error codes with ELM 327 and now car starts just fine. Still can't find the cause.
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

The cars electrical system should be checked for a draw and alternator output. The battery needs fully charged and then load tested.
Oleksandr
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue May 14, 2019 3:09 pm

Found one more Kizashi that is having same issue. This post was recently published in one of facebook's groups:
Image

I guess its time to install new crankshaft position sensor and if that wouldn't help - bring it to electrician to perform alternator and draw tests.
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Woodie
Posts: 1167
Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 10:09 am
Location: Laurel, MD

That's not the same problem in any way, his car is stone dead with a P0335 code.

Yours sounds like a bad battery cable.
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rohanahmed
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2022 6:31 am

Hi guys, i have a suzuki Kizashi 2011 225k km driven.
I am facing a similar issue as I am getting the same warning messages mentioned here. My codes are as followed

P0101, C1091, B1505 and B1504

The car starts well, runs and idle smooth. My question is what if the codes repeat even after replacing the battery then what's the way forward?

Note:
1. esp light gods away after restarting car. Check light goes away after 1 or 2 drives. B1505 and B1504 stays active on elm 327.
2. Check engine light and esp light both comes on in a very random pattern. Sometimes its in morning start or while during driving with speed below 70km/h
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

I think my plan of attack would be to make sure it’s not a battery issue by trying another battery if you can and making sure battery is up. If your scan tool has the ability to read data I would hook that up erase the codes and watch data on the ABS computer mainly watching speed sensor readings off of all four wheels and see if there’s one that tries to duck out. Maybe see what code returns first. The B1505 in the B1504 are both for the body air conditioning and I think these are always there on some of the cars anyway. I don’t pay any attention to them typically


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rohanahmed
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2022 6:31 am

old tech wrote: Wed Nov 02, 2022 11:20 pm I think my plan of attack would be to make sure it’s not a battery issue by trying another battery if you can and making sure battery is up. If your scan tool has the ability to read data I would hook that up erase the codes and watch data on the ABS computer mainly watching speed sensor readings off of all four wheels and see if there’s one that tries to duck out. Maybe see what code returns first. The B1505 in the B1504 are both for the body air conditioning and I think these are always there on some of the cars anyway. I don’t pay any attention to them typically


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Hi Old Tech,

Thank you for the response! I have a quick update for you. I bought a new battery from Canadian Tire and got it replaced (Motomaster Eliminator AGM 24F).

1. I felt an improvement in my ignition and the car sounds healthier and more responsive. However I did get the same warning lights and messages on second day when i was going downhill on Don Valley parkway, Toronto. ESP light went off after the next startup. I cleared the codes by using elm327.

2. Next day, It rained alll day and after a gap of 11 hours (while returning from work) all of warning messages came in again! and as usual ESP light went away after first startup and check engine light went away after 3 startups. I did not use ELM327 this time

3.Last night (after a gap of 21 hours)I kept my brake pedal depressed for like 30 seconds conitnously while starting the car. Surprisingly no warning lights or messages came. I had multiple short distance trips and everything seemed fine.

Way forward: I will keep on monitoring and try to pick the events which leads to these warning messages (donwhill driving/coasting, rain/humidity factor)and I am thinking to consult mechanic to test MAF sensor and entire ABS and ESP system.
rohanahmed
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2022 6:31 am

rohanahmed wrote: Mon Nov 07, 2022 7:18 pm
old tech wrote: Wed Nov 02, 2022 11:20 pm I think my plan of attack would be to make sure it’s not a battery issue by trying another battery if you can and making sure battery is up. If your scan tool has the ability to read data I would hook that up erase the codes and watch data on the ABS computer mainly watching speed sensor readings off of all four wheels and see if there’s one that tries to duck out. Maybe see what code returns first. The B1505 in the B1504 are both for the body air conditioning and I think these are always there on some of the cars anyway. I don’t pay any attention to them typically


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi Old Tech,

Thank you for the response! I have a quick update for you. I bought a new battery from Canadian Tire and got it replaced (Motomaster Eliminator AGM 24F).

1. I felt an improvement in my ignition and the car sounds healthier and more responsive. However I did get the same warning lights and messages on second day when i was going downhill on Don Valley parkway, Toronto. ESP light went off after the next startup. I cleared the codes by using elm327.

2. Next day, It rained alll day and after a gap of 11 hours (while returning from work) all of warning messages came in again! and as usual ESP light went away after first startup and check engine light went away after 3 startups. I did not use ELM327 this time

3.Last night (after a gap of 21 hours)I kept my brake pedal depressed for like 30 seconds conitnously while starting the car. Surprisingly no warning lights or messages came. I had multiple short distance trips and everything seemed fine.

Way forward: I will keep on monitoring and try to pick the events which leads to these warning messages (donwhill driving/coasting, rain/humidity factor)and I am thinking to consult mechanic to test MAF sensor and entire ABS and ESP system.
QUICK UPDATE / FAST FORWARD 7 MOTNHS

Replaced the following:
1. PCV
2. Valve Cover Gasket
3. Air inlet pipe
4. Mass Airflow Sensor

Throrrle Body was cleaned prior to replacing PCV and air inlet pipe (2 months as of now)

Performed a manual reset by disconnecting the battery and and the the car idle on 'Drive' for 10 minutes under operating temperature.

Long term fuel trims (LTFT) dropped from an average of -8%TO -4%

rpm idles between 600 (without AC) and gies upto 750 (with AC)

the engine stalls a few times but the amplitude of the vibration have decreased significantly

current ODO : 252k km
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