Service engine, hill hold disabled & ESP error messages FIX
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2021 9:08 am
Brief:
3 error messages on dash: service engine, hill hold disabled & ESP disabled (error codes C1122, P2119, C1091) are signs of voltage drop. Replace your battery.
Full story:
Hello.
Recently I had an issue with Kizashi when engine started as usual and I received 3 error messages on dash: service engine, hill hold disabled & ESP disabled.
I couldn`t find any information on this set of issues anywhere online so I started asking mechanics about possible cause but no one seems to know what to do exactly in this situation and how easy it actually is to fix.
Car drove just fine, engine worked flawlessly so I decided to keep driving (night, outskirts of a city that I don't now much about, 150 km away from home). Dropped off my friends at a train station and then I couldn't start the engine. Car was cranking just fine, engine started for a moment and then turned off automatically. It repeated multiple times. After letting car cool down a bit (around 20 minutes) it started again (with same errors on dash). I drove it home and left it there for a night.
Next day car wouldn`t start. I connected diagnostic adapater (ELM327) and found 3 main DTCs:
C1122: Engine speed signal circuit failure; Engine Speed Signal Malfunction - Current
P2119: Throtle actuator control throttle body range/performance - Current
C1091: ECM data in CAN line failure; CAN invalid Date from ECM - Current
At that moment I tried reaching for throttle body and ensuring that it is not stuck, checking wiring for throttle body and crankshaft sensor, ordered new crankshaft sensor.
A few more start attempts later car started acting like it was not getting enough current from battery, just a moment of engine cranking and then everything goes dark for a couple of seconds. I checked battery, it was 12.8V which should be enough for start. I tried loading it with headlights, radio, A/C and voltage was not dropping so I assumed it was fine. Next thought was shorted starter motor which consumed too many amps. Reaching starter motor looked like a job for next day.
Next morning I decided to test battery hypothesis again by jump starting it from another car. I connected good battery in parallel with cables, car cranked a little bit longer but still no start. Wires got warm so I thought it was a sign that high current went through but something had even higher current consumption (possibly shorted starter motor).
Two mechanics came to look at a car but couldn`t point out at actual cause, only offered wiring checks, replacement of throttle body, crankshaft sensor and possibly ECM.
Desperate and with bad mood I left car for one more day.
After some rest and research I found that very rarely car batteries encounter an issue called internal circuit break (micro crack in one of connections between battery banks). This issue makes car battery work fine under low and medium loads (capacity remains high) but under high current load this crack spreads and connection suddenly interrupts, voltage drops to 0V. Right after the load is removed (cranking stops) voltage comes back to normal and battery is ready to be tested with simple handheld tools and pass.
This was the cause of an issue in my case. New battery and clearing of stored error codes brought car back to life.
Car used genuine SUZUKI battery manufactured by Moratti (produced in 2015).
Now I know that Kizashi requires very good battery as it not only cranks the engine during start but also performs many tests during this brief period when battery load is at its peak.
P. S.: You might ask why jump starting didn`t help and honestly saying it bothered me too. Explanation was found when I looked at jumper cables crimping. Conductor turned out to be copper coated aluminium of small gauge (but thick insulation) and it was crimped so badly that it couldnt transfer more than a few tens of amps. I guess that chinese manufacturers worry about users so much that they don't want you to share with anyone else too many amps when someone asks for a jump start.
3 error messages on dash: service engine, hill hold disabled & ESP disabled (error codes C1122, P2119, C1091) are signs of voltage drop. Replace your battery.
Full story:
Hello.
Recently I had an issue with Kizashi when engine started as usual and I received 3 error messages on dash: service engine, hill hold disabled & ESP disabled.
I couldn`t find any information on this set of issues anywhere online so I started asking mechanics about possible cause but no one seems to know what to do exactly in this situation and how easy it actually is to fix.
Car drove just fine, engine worked flawlessly so I decided to keep driving (night, outskirts of a city that I don't now much about, 150 km away from home). Dropped off my friends at a train station and then I couldn't start the engine. Car was cranking just fine, engine started for a moment and then turned off automatically. It repeated multiple times. After letting car cool down a bit (around 20 minutes) it started again (with same errors on dash). I drove it home and left it there for a night.
Next day car wouldn`t start. I connected diagnostic adapater (ELM327) and found 3 main DTCs:
C1122: Engine speed signal circuit failure; Engine Speed Signal Malfunction - Current
P2119: Throtle actuator control throttle body range/performance - Current
C1091: ECM data in CAN line failure; CAN invalid Date from ECM - Current
At that moment I tried reaching for throttle body and ensuring that it is not stuck, checking wiring for throttle body and crankshaft sensor, ordered new crankshaft sensor.
A few more start attempts later car started acting like it was not getting enough current from battery, just a moment of engine cranking and then everything goes dark for a couple of seconds. I checked battery, it was 12.8V which should be enough for start. I tried loading it with headlights, radio, A/C and voltage was not dropping so I assumed it was fine. Next thought was shorted starter motor which consumed too many amps. Reaching starter motor looked like a job for next day.
Next morning I decided to test battery hypothesis again by jump starting it from another car. I connected good battery in parallel with cables, car cranked a little bit longer but still no start. Wires got warm so I thought it was a sign that high current went through but something had even higher current consumption (possibly shorted starter motor).
Two mechanics came to look at a car but couldn`t point out at actual cause, only offered wiring checks, replacement of throttle body, crankshaft sensor and possibly ECM.
Desperate and with bad mood I left car for one more day.
After some rest and research I found that very rarely car batteries encounter an issue called internal circuit break (micro crack in one of connections between battery banks). This issue makes car battery work fine under low and medium loads (capacity remains high) but under high current load this crack spreads and connection suddenly interrupts, voltage drops to 0V. Right after the load is removed (cranking stops) voltage comes back to normal and battery is ready to be tested with simple handheld tools and pass.
This was the cause of an issue in my case. New battery and clearing of stored error codes brought car back to life.
Car used genuine SUZUKI battery manufactured by Moratti (produced in 2015).
Now I know that Kizashi requires very good battery as it not only cranks the engine during start but also performs many tests during this brief period when battery load is at its peak.
P. S.: You might ask why jump starting didn`t help and honestly saying it bothered me too. Explanation was found when I looked at jumper cables crimping. Conductor turned out to be copper coated aluminium of small gauge (but thick insulation) and it was crimped so badly that it couldnt transfer more than a few tens of amps. I guess that chinese manufacturers worry about users so much that they don't want you to share with anyone else too many amps when someone asks for a jump start.