Key fob problems

Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
NOTE: Any car related technical question can be posted here.
taselsewhere
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2021 2:48 pm

Hello everyone!

Hope anyone can have an answer to this problem I got... Got my 2011 Kizashi some months ago. Haven't got any problems with this at the start but now I had the "wrong message" "key fob not detected" got the batteries changed in both of my fobs. But after that, it seems to happen a lot. Got the batteries changed 4 times in 3 weeks. Had my keys looked at and it seems not to be anything wrong whit them at all. Even if I changed batteries it takes a lot of time for the car to recognize the fob or at all. Most of the time I need to pull one of the car's battery cables and let it "reboot" itself and it works after that. I got time for a software check at a Suzuki workshop and see if there are any wrong codes. I'm leaning towards getting new keys if there aren't any "wrong codes" otherwise it may be a full look at it. Anyone else had this kind of a problem or got any ideas of what it can be or what I can do? // Tas
KlutzNinja
Posts: 286
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2019 6:58 am

What’s your car’s mileage? Just curious.

The temporary battery cable solution seems to suggest the battery is at the core of the issue. Lots of types of electronics on the Kizashi can start acting out in a dramatic manner when the battery’s time is up (although not too many at once, I don’t think - it seems everyone experiences their own unique set of electronic shenanigans). I’m no expert in Kizashi maintenance and troubleshooting, but I’ve seen the longtime members here with lots of hands-on experience say this when other newer members have electronics issues that can’t be pinpointed. When the latter replace their batteries, the issues are often resolved.

One of those situations where the problem is so seemingly odd and convoluted, that the source of it and its solution can be easily overlooked because of how simple they are.

Beyond this issue, I hope you’ve been able to enjoy your Kizashi somewhat.
I’m sure the others will explain things better and more concisely, but in any case, good luck.
Current: Blue 2018 Mazda 3 GT 5-Door
Previous: Blue 2010 Ford Focus SES,
Black 2013 Kizashi Sport GTS-L (CVT; FWD)(RIP)
taselsewhere
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2021 2:48 pm

The mileage of it is 6835 miles or so or 11000 in EU mil/km.

Do you mean the car battery or the fob one? Had an idea that the car battery is going bad but no indication of it on the panel or warnings about it. Or maybe the grounding to the battery is getting some disturbences. Well, see I will mention this at the workshop and see if they can measure the battery. The car starts/stops with a press on the button. But when I want to leave the car and it's off. It starts beeeeeping as soon I open the door. If I close it the "ignition" goes on within the car and the radio starts. Happens even when I lock the door. If I look at the car it starts alarming and the massage "key fob not detected" showing up.
KlutzNinja
Posts: 286
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2019 6:58 am

That’s very low mileage for a Kizashi in this day and age, but the battery could still be dying from old age all the same.
I meant the car’s battery in my first post, sorry. When the fob’s battery is near death, the car has a hard time detecting it and often you’ll have to put the fob right up to the push button start to turn on the ignition. That goes away once the fob gets a new battery, but since you’ve already replaced your fobs’ batteries, that doesn’t seem to be the issue. Also, because it’s happening with both fobs, the issue seems to be the car and not the fobs.

I’d definitely hold off on getting new keys since, depending on where you are, they may not be easy or cost-effective to find and buy.
Hope you can get the battery checked out. And hopefully oldtech and KuroNekko see this thread and chime in, because I can’t offer much else lol. I can’t really explain the issues you mentioned in the end of your second post; that’s beyond my knowledge.
Current: Blue 2018 Mazda 3 GT 5-Door
Previous: Blue 2010 Ford Focus SES,
Black 2013 Kizashi Sport GTS-L (CVT; FWD)(RIP)
taselsewhere
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2021 2:48 pm

Klutz is low mileage! Was at a Suzuki workshop yesterday. They did a "wrong code search". They didn't find anything except that the car battery was with nice word shit and needed to be replaced. Went and bought a new one and installed it. The problem seems to still exist from time to time. Sometimes it's good and it works as I should and sometimes the problem shows up again. But then I thought if I need to change the fob batteries again since they might be bad again since they may be needed extra power to "work" since the car battery was shit? Just a hunch tho... Also, the workshop is sending this problem to the Suzuki "top" here in Sweden to see if it a "common" problem or anything else they know about.
Oh okay is there any way to "tag" them in here? Or should I message them personally?
KlutzNinja
Posts: 286
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2019 6:58 am

Glad that seemed to help. I had no idea Sweden has Suzuki workshops, but that’s good you do.

I can’t say why the fobs still aren’t working 100% of the time, especially since you’ve already changed their batteries several times. Usually fob batteries last for some years. Maybe they were dropped a lot and handled roughly before you got the car? I’m not sure if the sensors inside could be damaged like that, though.

The senior members here usually reply to these kinds of threads. But if you want to reach them directly there is a direct message system here. Just find a post they’ve made, click on their profile, and there should be a “private message” button.
Current: Blue 2018 Mazda 3 GT 5-Door
Previous: Blue 2010 Ford Focus SES,
Black 2013 Kizashi Sport GTS-L (CVT; FWD)(RIP)
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

Like Klutz Ninja was getting to , the car battery along with remote batteries must be good. On the fob battery, was a quality brand 2032 used for replacement like EverReady or Duracell? If so ,try keeping fob on your person closest to the start button and see if that improves any thing . Also ,I’d like to know if everything with steering column lock is working as it should like after the drive when door is opened does it trigger the column lock and that all systems are free from trouble codes ? How far away can you get from your car with clear air space and still lock and unlock doors ? Has car had any accident repairs ? Antenna units are in doors , trunk and dash. I personally haven’t seen much trouble with these keys like you are explaining but then these cars are getting some miles and years behind them . For a lot of owners at this stage in the game they would probably toss the battery out of remote and just leave it in the cup holder and have a copy of the emergency key to lock and unlock the doors manually .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
taselsewhere
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2021 2:48 pm

Oldteck I changed the car battery to a new one and the remote one. It worked as I should for a week and now the problem is back once again... I'm using quality brands on both car and remote ones. Holding it close to the start button doesn't work, I have tried it soooo many times. Yes, the steering column works, and it's not triggering the column lock and all systems are free from trouble codes. Except for the car battery but that one I changed to a new one. I can do it from my kitchen window from my apartment so about 5 meters or so and can still lock and unlock it. No, it hasn't had any accident repairs. Okay, but if it could be an antenna unit shouldn't it be known when you troubleshot the whole car for errors? And also if I'm going with the "toss" the battery out of the remote. As I mentioned when I turn off the car the engine stops and all that but it's still doesn't kill the "dash lights" and the radio (most of the time not all of the time), it starts beeping as soon I open the door. Will this disappear if I toss the remote battery out?
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

This sounds like something for a qualified Suzuki repair facility should look at but let’s try this. First let’s see how far you can get away from the car and still have the remote lock and unlock the doors.Try this with both remotes one at a time. With an unobstructed view of the car you should be able to get about 50 meters away and still see the parking lights flash to let you know it’s locking and unlocking . Next I would like you to take batteries out both fobs . Mark fobs 1 And 2 leave . Leave one in the apartment and use starting system manually. You will push the start button and then wave the fob S emblem in front of the start button and it should unlock the column and start the car if you got your foot on the brake pedal. Using the system this way will not or shouldn’t give you the beeping warning of “remote communication lost.” When you shut it off the engine dash lights and radio should shut off instantly. Open the door and the steering column should lock . Next Try with other fob. Let me know how it goes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
taselsewhere
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2021 2:48 pm

Update: the range of the fobs seems to be accurate. The problem reappered this morning. Tried the way you said Oldtech with removing the batteries from the fobs and waved infront the start button but it dident work. The beeping and the dashlights are still on. If i go out lock the car manually the car beeps and shows "key fob not detected" as always. So it dident work unfortunelly.. Pulled the cable on the battery so the car dont stand on under the time i working. Going to try again after that and only do it manually without putting a battery into the fob from start and see if that works after the car are "rebooted".
Post Reply