Vehicle lost power then crank but no start
So my girlfriend was driving her kizashi when she suddenly started losing power so she pulled over to the side of the road shut the vehicle off called me and open the hood there was oil under the hood but not a lot and the vehicle is less than a quart low. Me and my buddy hop in the truck with the trailer to go pick it up and we get there and she'll crank but no start. My buddy who is isnt certified mechanic but has lots of shade tree experience tells me that it appears there's no compression like the starter is turning it over with almost no resistance. But there's also no noise no clunking no banging nothing that would indicate that the engine itself was damaged in any way so We get her on the trailer and get her home hook it up to the code reader and the only codes that it is showing are P2227 and P0117... Honestly we're at a loss definitely thought there would be other codes My buddy said he's never seen anything like it so I figured I'd post it on here and see if anybody else has had this problem or if anybody has any advice. Thank you all in advance
Welcome Shogren !
Cranking over fast with no attempt to fire up makes me thing of the timing chain or something to do with that system. Open up the oil fill cap and watch the cam lobes as you crank it over on the starter. If the cam isn't turning then you've got a timing chain problem.
Those two codes are for the barometric pressure sensor and the engine coolant temperature sensor. That would make me think electrical as the two sensors are seemingly unrelated. What that would have to do with a loss of compression, I have no idea.
Cranking over fast with no attempt to fire up makes me thing of the timing chain or something to do with that system. Open up the oil fill cap and watch the cam lobes as you crank it over on the starter. If the cam isn't turning then you've got a timing chain problem.
Those two codes are for the barometric pressure sensor and the engine coolant temperature sensor. That would make me think electrical as the two sensors are seemingly unrelated. What that would have to do with a loss of compression, I have no idea.
Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
Where are you located ? If it has been overheated enough for compression loss, there are a few concerns. Hopefully car is 2011 or newer. 2010 had a service bulletin on engine blocks cracking and warranty coverage was to be extended 20 yrs unlimited mileage. Ive have seen 3 of these crack now. They all waited to around 175,000 miles to show . The first one was covered but it took 3 mo and some forced purchases such as dealer water pump and thermostat . The second one they blamed it on a headgasket when the crack could clearly be seen with the engine still running perfectly. The third one, I didnt even suggest letting dealer look at it. A used engine replacement with a newer production date is best here. If yours is 11 or newer than I suggest repairing yours in-car . The head should be straightened first before machining or sanding . see technical history search "cheap fix 19 warped head"