Suzuki Kizashi Drive Cycle

[KuroNekko]

Does anyone know the specific drive cycle for the Kizashi? I skimmed through the service manual but could not find it and there is no mention of it on the forum. I basically need to get my car ready for a smog inspection but the oxygen sensor is not ready yet, per the smog tech. A little bit more background:

About a week or two ago, I had a check engine light come on after a bit of stalling at idle. Using my OBDII WIFI reader and the Dash Command app, I determined it was P0172 - System Too Rich Bank 1. I then cleared the code and cleaned my MAF sensor with an appropriate cleaner made for cleaning MAFs. The check engine light has not since reappeared and the car is running well. Shortly after, I took the car in for a smog inspection and it passed all tests other than the oxygen sensor being "ready". I told the mechanic about the CEL and he stated that the car needs more data for the sensor since the CEL reset so to drive it more. I've since put on more miles and returned three times but the sensor is still not ready. As of today, I put on over 200 miles since the initial test. This morning, the tech stated that while the sensor still reads "not ready", the metrics on his OBDII reader stated my car was still running too rich. However, the shop is literally a three minute drive from my house and I went there straight from home as the first drive. In essence, the engine was not fully warmed up and I read this can affect fuel mixture, running the engine a bit rich.

While the tech stated that it's possible that once the sensor is ready, it will turn on a CEL again due to faulty parts causing the rich fuel mixture, it's too early to tell. I researched the matter of getting the sensor ready and came across "drive cycles" for getting the sensor metrics ready. However, I could not find any for the Kizashi. They are apparently different among makes. For example, here's the drive cycle for a Hyundai Sonata:

Hyundai Sonata Drive Cycle
STEP 1: • Make sure check engine light is not on and that there are no stored trouble codes in the computer. Use a scan tool to check for OBD II trouble codes. Any faults founds need to be repaired first. • Start the engine. Keep the vehicle in Park. • Idle the engine for 1 1/2 minutes.
STEP 2: (Steady State Driving - Part 1) • Accelerate within 15 seconds to 50-55 mph (using 1/4 to 3/4 throttle) and keep this speed steady for 2 to 3 minutes. • Decelerate to 0 mph without braking. • Idle engine then idle in Drive for 1 to 2 minutes.
STEP 3: (Steady State Driving - Part 2) • Accelerate within 15 seconds to 50-55 mph (using 1/4 to 3/4 throttle) and keep this speed steady for 10 to 20 minutes. • Decelerate to 0 mph without braking. • Idle engine then idle in Drive for 1 to 2 minutes.
STEP 4: (Engine Stop) • The drive cycle is completed. • Turn off the engine (key in the OFF position).

I'm basically trying to get the Kizashi ready sooner by following a specific drive cycle, if I can find it. I also apparently need the fuel level to be within 3/4 to 1/4, which it is now.

Getting the car ready sooner will also help determine if I need new parts like a MAF and O2 sensor before passing smog or not. My fuel economy has been lower than normal but only as of late as it likely coincides with the CEL issues. At 126K miles, I'm happy to replace the original parts myself but I know that if I do that preemptively, it can again affect the data I need to pass smog.

[SAEED_KIZZY]

sorry KuroNekko I do not find any information about the drive cycle for Kizashi either, but clearly your car is in rich condition not enough to trip a code but to fail the O2 sensor test. if the rich condition is solved O2 test is also fixed. from the top of my head: a leaky injector(s), or maybe a faulty purge valve can cause that rich condition.

[bdleonard]

I've not seen a specific drive cycle listed for the Kizashi, but it you have an OBDII scan tool it will probably be able to tell what monitors have been completed, which have not, and if the vehicle is ready for an emissions check

[KuroNekko]

sorry KuroNekko I do not find any information about the drive cycle for Kizashi either, but clearly your car is in rich condition not enough to trip a code but to fail the O2 sensor test. if the rich condition is solved O2 test is also fixed. from the top of my head: a leaky injector(s), or maybe a faulty purge valve can cause that rich condition.

I think it was the MAF because after I cleaned it, the engine ran better and the CEL has not come back on. The issue is clearing the CEL apparently cleared the data required for the smog test. The Kizashi passed all tests other than for the data from the O2 sensor that read "not ready". I've now put on 250 miles since the initial test.

I've not seen a specific drive cycle listed for the Kizashi, but it you have an OBDII scan tool it will probably be able to tell what monitors have been completed, which have not, and if the vehicle is ready for an emissions check

Yeah, after returning for the third time yet the sensor not being ready, the mechanic also suggested monitoring it myself if I had an OBDII scan tool. I have a WIFI device that works with an app so I'll check that. If it's not ready, I'm going to be taking a long drive with varying speeds.

[SAEED_KIZZY]

I think it was the MAF because after I cleaned it, the engine ran better and the CEL has not come back on. The issue is clearing the CEL apparently cleared the data required for the smog test. The Kizashi passed all tests other than for the data from the O2 sensor that read "not ready". I've now put on 250 miles since the initial test.

You can check the LTFT(long-term fuel trim) parameter with the diag tool Usually if below 10% you are good between 10 and 20 is not good but no CEL yet above 20% definitely trips a rich code.

[KuroNekko]

Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't think my scan tool can access fuel trims. It's not a proper diagnostics tool but more a WIFI device that connects to phones with an app. It's designed more for live metrics while driving with some basic diagnostics like reading CEL codes. I used it this morning and it displayed that the O2 sensor and Evap system were still not ready. However, once I learned that drive cycles require the fuel level to be between 3/4 and 1/4, I realized a lot of my driving did not fall within that fuel level. I'll drive around more with the fuel in the proper level for a drive cycle and check with my tool to see if the systems are ready. If it fails to ready after a considerable amount of miles, I'll start looking into issues that could be causing the fuel mixture to be too rich. I'll likely be replacing my upstream O2 and MAF sensor soon regardless due to mileage on these original parts. I'm just trying to pass the smog test ASAP due to registration expiration coming up in a few weeks.

[faskversi]

I think it was the MAF because after I cleaned it, the engine ran better and the CEL has not come back on. The issue is clearing the CEL apparently cleared the data required for the smog test. The Kizashi car passed all tests other than for the data from the O2 sensor that read "not ready". I've now put on 250 miles since the initial test.

You can check the LTFT(long-term fuel trim) parameter with the diag tool Usually if below 10% you are good between 10 and 20 is not good but no CEL yet above 20% definitely trips a rich code.

If the Check Engine Light (CEL) has not come back on after cleaning the MAF, it's a positive sign that the issue may have been resolved. However, it's essential to monitor the vehicle's performance over time to ensure the problem doesn't recur.

[KuroNekko]

Well, it's been over 400 miles of driving and the O2 sensor and the Evap system still do not read "ready". The tech told me it's the oxygen sensor that is keeping the car from passing due to its "not ready" status. I've even followed some other drive cycle procedures that include idling for 2.5 minutes with the AC and defroster on in addition to highway speeds for certain distances. I've operated the vehicle at a fuel level between 1/4 and 3/4 full for a while too. I'm now inclined to replace my O2 sensor as a start to resolving the issue. I'll likely replace my MAF sensor as well given I have to order parts anyway.

[KuroNekko]

Update:

I finally passed the smog test after my O2 sensor and Evap system readied on the OBDII reader. I had to postpone things for over a week due to work travel trips but when I checked the status before driving back from the work trip, all systems showed ready. This was after I ordered parts from Rockauto.com but didn't install them yet due to being away.
Unfortunately, my order came in disappointing condition. The MAF sensor was an open package with what appeared to be a generic part with a NTK sticker on it. I didn't cross-reference the part number on it to check for genuine parts but definitely not pleased. I also ordered brake pads for the wife's Scion xB and that was an open package too. Even worse, the pads were a bit damaged and the hardware kit was missing altogether. Only the O2 sensor appeared brand new and unopened. I've been shopping with Rockauto.com for years and this is really disappointing. In my second to last order or so, I ordered Continental idler pulleys for the serpentine belt. When I attempted to replace them about a year after ordering along with the belt, I discovered I was sent pulleys that don't fit the Kizashi. I couldn't return them due to the time between order and discovering the issue. This time, 2/3 parts were open packages and one missing hardware. Unacceptable.
I'll be returning the entire order and getting brake pads for the Scion elsewhere. Sad to see Rockauto.com slip in quality. The only good thing about this is that my car didn't need the parts to pass smog though I intended to replace them anyway.