What Did You Do With Your Kizashi Today?

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KlutzNinja
Posts: 286
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2019 6:58 am

Thanks for the advice, Samir. It’s reassuring to know others have gone through this, too.

Some more updates:
On Friday I put cardboard on the ground at work where there were some drips, to see if the mount was still leaking after I had tried to tighten the filter (some time before I left for work). After four hours (I work part-time), there was an oil dot 1.5 inches in diameter. I think I tried to tighten again and then went on my way. Put the cardboard down again at home (9pm-ish), and checked around noon, so a lot longer of a duration. Once again a small dot. I took the heat shield off this time and tightened the filter again (screws are 10mm like the underbody panel screws, if anyone didn’t know); it moved by like a few millimeters. Also took a pic to see if it was a double gasket situation. Apparently it’s not, so that’s a relief. I’m thinking that it could be the mount area wasn’t as clean as it needed to be, and/or I didn’t tighten as well as I needed to during the oil change. For a minute I was worried it was a double gasket situation because some angles of the pictures of the Wix filter don’t show the black gasket, making it look like it’s flush with the metal, rather than a layer on top of it.

I didn’t drive anywhere yesterday, so no engine vibrations to possibly loosen it. Checked the cardboard this morning and no new drops. I’ll be leaving later today, so I’ll be sure to check again tomorrow. Can’t help but wonder if some of the oil drips I’m having lately are just what’s collected on the underbody panel, since it has different depths. And when I park at home it’s on a sloped driveway. Like maybe my filter mount isn’t leaking as much as I thought, some of the oil is from the early leak. Can’t be sure unless I take the panel off, but I’m not able to do that right now.
Side note, some of the stuff under the heat shield seemed a bit rusty? Such as the engine cylinder piping thing seen in my picture. Like even one of the screws was rusted and took some force to loosen. Is this normal? I’m in SoCal, not the rust belt, for what it’s worth.
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Last edited by KlutzNinja on Thu Dec 02, 2021 6:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
Current: Blue 2018 Mazda 3 GT 5-Door
Previous: Blue 2010 Ford Focus SES,
Black 2013 Kizashi Sport GTS-L (CVT; FWD)(RIP)
SamirD
Posts: 3074
Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2013 4:07 pm
Location: HSV and SFO
Contact:

That's a very good point about the undercover dripping as I recall that is also what happened to me after I corrected the drip and thought it was still dripping. The true test on a drip is to look at the actual base where the filter mounts as there would be evidence of drips starting there.

As far as the rust--it is perfectly normal for the iron manifold to be rusted as well as the bolts. On my Altima that never left the SE us, when I replaced the header with a performance one, everything was rusted on it--and what was interesting is that after 24hrs the pb blaster that had dripped on it from when I applied it to the header bolts actually restored the surface back to metal. That pretty much sold me on how good pb blaster is. :mrgreen:

Off to try some pb blaster on the rear wheel and brake system--wish me luck!
KlutzNinja
Posts: 286
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2019 6:58 am

Thanks for the rust knowledge (and engine terminology lol).
Forgot to mention that there are some videos on YouTube regarding working on the Kizashi’s brakes. Idk if they’re good or what you’re looking for, but they might help.
Current: Blue 2018 Mazda 3 GT 5-Door
Previous: Blue 2010 Ford Focus SES,
Black 2013 Kizashi Sport GTS-L (CVT; FWD)(RIP)
SamirD
Posts: 3074
Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2013 4:07 pm
Location: HSV and SFO
Contact:

I'm pretty experienced with brakes, and have read the service manual documentation so don't expect too many issues. I'm just very meticulous and thorough when working on something that requires precision for 100% optimal operation so even the little things I take seriously.

I have to start a thread on what I discovered about how the outer rear pad fell out--it's not a one time issue apparently so it's important to know how this happens.
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SAEED_KIZZY
Posts: 507
Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2017 2:31 pm

took a small trip last week. car runs great fuel consumption around 7.2 L/100km (39 MPG) with a new oil change.
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Drem
Posts: 85
Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2011 3:03 am

Been at it with the car stereo upgrades again. Installed custom dash pods made of aluminum. They're housing a 2.5" midrange and 1.x" tweeter. 8" midbass pics coming soon. ImageImageImage

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2011 - Sport SLS AWD - Platinum Silver
old tech
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Location: n/w pennsysvania

Today I found my first cracked engine block on a 2010(early production date) Kizashi with 189,000 miles on it . The owner had called and said she had lost heat. I said check coolant level and drive belt. She added a bit of coolant but didn’t see any leak . I had her bring it over for a pressure test . I didn’t find any leak and told her to run it a few days keeping a watch on the level . In a week she told me she added a half gallon. I had her drop it off and I pressured system at 25 psi and still nothing but a tiny bleed down on pressure . I looked everything thing over from the bottom side and found a trace of antifreeze above the alternator . I washed and dried it and nothing. I thought I’d watch that area with pressure while warming up. 1/4 on the temp gauge it peed a small stream right out of the block. Wow , a cracked block at the bottom of the head bolt reach. I backed out oil drain plug and half a cup coolant in there . The revised service bulletin states these engine blocks are covered 20yrs and unlimited miles. I guess we will see . The large dealer I use said they haven’t ever had one but would have to verify before starting the process. I’ve sent it to them.Image



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WESHOOT2
Posts: 1976
Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:37 pm
Location: Vermont

Nice find.
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Drem
Posts: 85
Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2011 3:03 am

Crazy. Would be sweet if she got a new engine free.

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2011 - Sport SLS AWD - Platinum Silver
old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

An update on the 2010 Kizashi with the cracked block. The certified Suzuki service center ( now a Kia dealer) got back with us today 12/28 and officially confirmed this vehicle and its cracked engine block fit the service bulletin . That took awhile. Now we are waiting to hear back from Suzuki of how this gets handled. This car is the first one this facility has seen fall into eligibility . With only a few months of production of the 2010 kizashis affected, many of those sent to the crusher after a transmission failure , a deer hit or almost any collision with more than one fender kinked . This would leave very few . Out of those, some may have cracked and not caught before a complete melt down. Once its badly overheated, it would be almost impossible to prove a cracked block was the original cause. This definitely is a rare claim on a Kizashi.
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