Kizashi Club

Drained the CVT again today (3rd drain and fluid was even more translucent). Dropped the pan, cleaned it and the magnets, and replaced the pan filter (didn't really need changed). Replaced the cooler return filter (def. needed changed) and o-ring. Confirmed that the Mitsubishi cooler return filter cover O-ring is the correct part and fits perfectly. Original was in good shape and probably could have been re-used.

Thanks to DiggerDerrick for the filter kits p/n's from O'reilleys. Advanced AutoParts near work had same p/n's (different branding), both in stock. The pan filter kit came w/ a thicker rubber gasket. Never had much luck w/ those types of gaskets. They always get brittle and leak far too soon. After dropping the pan and seeing the OE gasket was thin and rigid, and was in good shape, I elected to clean it off and reuse it. Far superior quality. If it leaks or weeps, I'll order an OE from the zuk dealer. Another drain/fill won't hurt since this drain was still nasty looking.

Thanks also to bdleonard for the Mitsu O-Ring p/n research. Ordered the O-ring...took a day to get it at the local Mitsubishi dealer.

I'll add all this, w/ pics, to my original drain and fill DIY sticky.

Good to hear the Mitsubishi O-ring was the right one. I've ordered one and was planning on doing a full fluid flush and changing of the filters. When I went to pick up the O-ring from the dealer the other day, they had managed to staple the receipt right through the O-ring
another one is on its way.

Ronzuki wrote:Thanks also to bdleonard for the Mitsu O-Ring p/n research. Ordered the O-ring...took a day to get it at the local Mitsubishi dealer.

Thanks for the confirmation, since I'm still about 15k miles away from my 50k change. I always figured that for a few dollars it certainly makes sense to have it on hand when changing the filter, in case it gets damaged. I planned on changing it regardless of necessity. In the worst case I suspect you could clean and goob the old gasket with RTV, but I don't want to need to try that sort of thing.

bdleonard wrote:

Ronzuki wrote:Thanks also to bdleonard for the Mitsu O-Ring p/n research. Ordered the O-ring...took a day to get it at the local Mitsubishi dealer.

Thanks for the confirmation, since I'm still about 15k miles away from my 50k change. I always figured that for a few dollars it certainly makes sense to have it on hand when changing the filter, in case it gets damaged. I planned on changing it regardless of necessity. In the worst case I suspect you could clean and goob the old gasket with RTV, but I don't want to need to try that sort of thing.

Based upon the fluid TSB, you're probably overdue. They're now floating a 30,000 mile number in that bulletin. Inspect every 15,500.

As soon as you loosen the cover bolts fluid starts oozing out and the gasket is held in to the machined recess of the cover perfectly w/ those 4 little nibs molded to the ID of the O-ring. You'll need to seat those nibs in the machined groove otherwise the o-ring will simply fall out when you go to reinstall the cover. BTW, I disconnected the cooler hoses and more fluid drained out of those as well as fluid draining into the pan when you break the seal of the cover and/or pull the hoses off. I wouldn't use RTV...the machined faces need to mate to one another. The design of the o-ring seal allows this to occur, RTV will disrupt that and it'll leak for sure.

Ronzuki wrote:

bdleonard wrote:

Ronzuki wrote:Thanks also to bdleonard for the Mitsu O-Ring p/n research. Ordered the O-ring...took a day to get it at the local Mitsubishi dealer.

Thanks for the confirmation, since I'm still about 15k miles away from my 50k change. I always figured that for a few dollars it certainly makes sense to have it on hand when changing the filter, in case it gets damaged. I planned on changing it regardless of necessity. In the worst case I suspect you could clean and goob the old gasket with RTV, but I don't want to need to try that sort of thing.

Based upon the fluid TSB, you're probably overdue. They're now floating a 30,000 mile number in that bulletin. Inspect every 15,500.

As soon as you loosen the cover bolts fluid starts oozing out and the gasket is held in to the machined recess of the cover perfectly w/ those 4 little nibs molded to the ID of the O-ring. You'll need to seat those nibs in the machined groove otherwise the o-ring will simply fall out when you go to reinstall the cover. BTW, I disconnected the cooler hoses and more fluid drained out of those as well as fluid draining into the pan when you break the seal of the cover and/or pull the hoses off. I wouldn't use RTV...the machined faces need to mate to one another. The design of the o-ring seal allows this to occur, RTV will disrupt that and it'll leak for sure.

At 35K, I've already done 3 drain and fills. Its just the filter / o-ring that's happening with my next drain and fill (50K). The RTV "solution" would only be tried (by me) if the o-ring was both unavailable and the existing one was damaged. That's why I sourced the replacement.

gotcha.

Had yesterday off because Government Holiday, so I spent most of the day getting caught up on Kizashi maintenance. Got it up on jack stands to do an oil change and tire rotation. I also replaced the front struts. My left-rear shock started leaking earlier in the summer, so I figured at 80k miles, I might as well replace all 4 corners. Did the rear shocks a month ago (with the newer design bumpstops), and just now getting around to the front struts. I was pleasantly surprised how easy that was. Once off the ground, I can have a strut assembly out in 5 min. Finished off the last hour of daylight with a car wash using my Adams foam gun.
Next up is another alignment, and from the look of these other posts, I guess I better start changing that CVT fluid.

Flushed the transmission and changed the filters. Cooling line flush, not the power flushes some shops are selling. Followed ProMarinero's post and everything came out good.
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I have to say though, the factory fluid did NOT look green at all! I spent so much time trying to find a compatible fluid that was green and cheaper than the dealer stuff if I could. It was dark so it was hard to tell, but as it was draining, looking through it with the light behind it, I'd swear it was reddish. My shop rags wouldn't indicate much of a color because it was so dirty, it just looked black to brown...as in, this might be what red fluid would look like when dirty? But as the rags sat and the fluid soaked throughout, they became very purple! Whatever, the job is done. I used the Mitsubishi O-ring, all though the original looked fine. I also used the pan gasket that came with the filter. It was rubber I guess, flexible but thin and dense/firm...sealed up just fine. No noticeable performance differences yet, but the whine that I thought was normal for my car (has always done it since it was new) is gone! Wish I had done it sooner!

I took mine autocrossing for the first time. Ended up getting third in my class, but there was no way I was going to get close to the Fiesta's. They were over 5 seconds ahead and ran faster times than many cars in classes ahead of us. This was actually the first time I've ever heard my CVT whine. It had already stopped by the time I drove home, but I had ordered new fluid and filters last week, so it will be interesting to see if it whines again if I do this more next year.

BLyons wrote:It had already stopped by the time I drove home, but I had ordered new fluid and filters last week, so it will be interesting to see if it whines again if I do this more next year.

No, it won't. Been verified.