Your Kizashi Owners Club and Forum
https://www.kizashiclub.com/forum/
I think it's because I had enough practice all the times I got it wrong.Ronzuki wrote:You'll have to sell your services...you've got the touch apparently.SamirD wrote: Did the relearn using the air drop trick and it took on the first shot.
OliverB wrote:New tires, new brakes, new rotors, new shock absorbers/struts, oil change, filters replaced, sway bar link ends. One of the bolts holding the top of the rear driver's shock absorber snapped and now the car sounds like its about to explode because the shock absorber isn't sitting properly where it should. I've ordered an entire shock absorber assembly from a junk yard.
How in the world would a bolt just snap like that? Did you ever have that shock replaced before?They were KYB's so the previous owner changed them. They didn't seem to be leaking but I figured I might as well change them since I do 1000kms per week on avg.SamirD wrote:OliverB wrote:New tires, new brakes, new rotors, new shock absorbers/struts, oil change, filters replaced, sway bar link ends. One of the bolts holding the top of the rear driver's shock absorber snapped and now the car sounds like its about to explode because the shock absorber isn't sitting properly where it should. I've ordered an entire shock absorber assembly from a junk yard.
In my experience, the upper suspension bolts are far weaker and spec'ed at much lower torque than one would expect. Without the use of a torque wrench dialed into the specified torque, it's easy to over-tighten and break upper mounting hardware for suspensions. I did the same thing for a front strut mounting bolt on my GF's Mazda3. It's really the lower bolts that are the beefy hardware taking the abuse that often require breaker bars and impact wrenches to remove.OliverB wrote:They were KYB's so the previous owner changed them. They didn't seem to be leaking but I figured I might as well change them since I do 1000kms per week on avg.SamirD wrote:OliverB wrote:New tires, new brakes, new rotors, new shock absorbers/struts, oil change, filters replaced, sway bar link ends. One of the bolts holding the top of the rear driver's shock absorber snapped and now the car sounds like its about to explode because the shock absorber isn't sitting properly where it should. I've ordered an entire shock absorber assembly from a junk yard.
Yeah I found that thread the other day, I'll change them after winter. Previous owner did not do the recall.KuroNekko wrote:In my experience, the upper suspension bolts are far weaker and spec'ed at much lower torque than one would expect. Without the use of a torque wrench dialed into the specified torque, it's easy to over-tighten and break upper mounting hardware for suspensions. I did the same thing for a front strut mounting bolt on my GF's Mazda3. It's really the lower bolts that are the beefy hardware taking the abuse that often require breaker bars and impact wrenches to remove.OliverB wrote:They were KYB's so the previous owner changed them. They didn't seem to be leaking but I figured I might as well change them since I do 1000kms per week on avg.SamirD wrote:
P.S. KYB is the OE shock manufacturer for the Kizashi. If they were labeled as KYB by stickers, it could have been an aftermarket replacement but either way, Kizashi shocks are KYBs. Also, to preserve the longevity of the rear shocks on the Kizashi, you need the revised bump stopper. Tons of info on that here:
https://kizashiclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3186
Most paid 'pros' use their air ratchets and guns anywhere they'll physically fit or reach, period....many don't know what a torque wrench is, or how to follow simple instructions. I watched them do my rears under the TSB and after he zipped the upper bolts out w/ his air gun, I said "you're going to torque them to spec by hand when reinstalling them, right?" More of an edict than a question. The young'n was pissed because he had to go and find out what "spec" was. Ah warranty work...'paid' to get it done as quickly as possible and move on the next butcher job.SamirD wrote:Yep, overtorquing was exactly what I was thinking would have caused that. Happens waaay too often unless you're watching for such things--which there is no excuse for if you're a paid 'pro'.
Yep, and this is why I carefully consider what current problem I have versus the problem they'll create with a 'fix'. I think I'm on the 11th notice for the shifter recall.Ronzuki wrote:Most paid 'pros' use their air ratchets and guns anywhere they'll physically fit or reach, period....many don't know what a torque wrench is, or how to follow simple instructions. I watched them do my rears under the TSB and after he zipped the upper bolts out w/ his air gun, I said "you're going to torque them to spec by hand when reinstalling them, right?" More of an edict than a question. The young'n was pissed because he had to go and find out what "spec" was. Ah warranty work...'paid' to get it done as quickly as possible and move on the next butcher job.SamirD wrote:Yep, overtorquing was exactly what I was thinking would have caused that. Happens waaay too often unless you're watching for such things--which there is no excuse for if you're a paid 'pro'.
