Intermittent Finicky FOB's - Kizashi 2012

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AH-99
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 9:20 pm

The FOB's (both of them) have been intermittent opening/closing the Driver door, and operating Push-Start System.
I have changed the battery twice, and recently few mths ago.
They worked fine most times, but at random moments the FOB I am carrying doesn't open or close driver door, or won't start the car. The Yellow" message comes on. I had to wait, or put FOB really close to the Push button, to start the system. I have to close via passenger door. If one was more finicky I switched to carrying the other one, or sometimes carrying both, esp when I am traveling.

Sometimes if I waited few minutes, warmed up the FOB, thinking it was the cold weather in Toronto, Canada, affecting the FOB, the car would start after 5-10 minutes!

Yesterday, I was in a parking lot, for sev minutes, it wouldn't recognize the FOB to start. The dealer I called said I should tow it,... Being close to home, I walked over, got the 2nd FOB from home, but it wouldn't work either. Waited 15-20 minutes. Finally car started.

Researching this on Forums, I do NOT have any accessories, like remote starters, nor any accessories in the 12V plug.

However, one coincidental thing is: My left headlight bulbs have gone ! this is the 2nd time in 3yrs (New car). It is costly to remove bumper and get at lights! Any suggestions on this also? Are the electric wirings or fuses related??

Please help, is there a way of resetting the FOB and the car's receiver? without going to dealer to get charged 1-2 hrs labour for diagnosing? Is there a way of synchronizing the frequencies of FOB and car's Start system.

Thanks
Azim
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KuroNekko
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:08 pm
Location: California, USA

What kind of batteries are you using in the fob? I'd try to see if the problems persists by doing the following:
Get brand new 2032 batteries for the fob and get a name brand like Energizer or Duracell. Replace the battery in only one fob with the new battery. See if the problems persist, especially when comparing between the two fobs.
If they do, then you'll likely need to see the service dealer.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
AH-99
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 9:20 pm

Tx for your reply,...
I have used Duracell and recently Sunbeam. but same results.
I can usually open trunk with FOB, and the passenger door

Is there any way of "resetting" the FOB and receiver in car to re-synch??
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Ronzuki
Posts: 2382
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

There are multiple receivers in the car, in various locations. The one for the trunk is separate and located behind the rear bumper cover dead-center. There's one located driver's side C-pillar for the doors. I don't recall if there's another one on the passenger side to handle approaching from that side. The fact that the trunk release and the passenger side door work w/o issue would indicate the FOBs are probably OK in my mind. There's another receiver inside the car that may have issues since it's not recognizing the FOB inside to start the car and may also be linked to door operation (how would you know?). I suppose either the interior one or the C-pillar unit may be suspect. You're likely going to have to take it in to have the culprit pin-pointed. For something like this, parts-darts method of repair on a low volume orphaned Suzuki could get very expensive, so be prepared to not allow the service center to rake you over the coals for their probable inabilities to diagnose.

I've replaced the receiver in a 2001 Olds Alero after about 13-14 years (can't recall when exactly) to solve the issue of the FOB not unlocking the doors (diminishing range leading up to complete failure). That old POS was easy, one FOB, one receiver, Got a second new FOB and couldn't pair it to the car so...bad receiver. $75-80 later, good to go.

Being relatively new, your 2012, really has no bearing on electronics life-span and newer doesn't necessarily mean better. The stuff can fail at anytime it's just the price you pay for all of this techno- wizard convenience. I had a $1,200 RF amp replaced under warranty in my 2010 during the second year of ownership.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
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LPSISRL
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Location: Chesapeake, Virginia

Just a note, you don't need a battery at all in the FOB to start the car. Hold it right up to the button and press it. I've done it with no battery in the FOB. You should never be stranded since you can open the door with the key and engage the starter with the FOB placed right up to the start button.
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AH-99
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 9:20 pm

TO LPSISRL:
Thanks, I could get in via key of course, but couldn't start car, even when holding FOB right over Start button!. That was the point, of my email, I was stranded!! and even aft getting 2nd FOB, same issue. After waiting another 20 min or so, it started ! I have had this happen few times in 3-4 yrs over 90,000Km. Could there be cell tower Interference in that area?

Afraid of FOB not working, I did not go out much yest, but when I did in eve, the FOB worked at my underground garage parking. Will try again today, and next few days!

Any ideas on light bulb issues - left side all 3 gone, 2nd time in 3 yrs ! Very costly to remove bumper !

Thanks also to RonZuki: Tx for letting me know where the receivers are located, and details. I suspect it is the left pillar. Much Appreciated. yes u r right, dealer will try darts method, and charge me an arm & a leg,.. and any thoughts on FOB replacement from other manufacturers?
Thanks
Az
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Speed_Racer
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AH-99 wrote:TO LPSISRL:
Any ideas on light bulb issues - left side all 3 gone, 2nd time in 3 yrs ! Very costly to remove bumper !
Two options - One is to learn to do it yourself. You'll get quick with all the practice ;)
Other option that some here have done - upgrade to HID. That's what I'll be doing the next time one of mine goes out.
'12 Kizashi,'03 SV650,'04 DL1000
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LPSISRL
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AH-99 wrote:TO LPSISRL:
Thanks, I could get in via key of course, but couldn't start car, even when holding FOB right over Start button!. That was the point, of my email, I was stranded!! and even aft getting 2nd FOB, same issue. After waiting another 20 min or so, it started ! I have had this happen few times in 3-4 yrs over 90,000Km. Could there be cell tower Interference in that area?

Afraid of FOB not working, I did not go out much yest, but when I did in eve, the FOB worked at my underground garage parking. Will try again today, and next few days!

Any ideas on light bulb issues - left side all 3 gone, 2nd time in 3 yrs ! Very costly to remove bumper !
I don't think it's the fob. As I tested, the fob should work even with no battery in it. I believe that it uses NFC (Near Field Communication) which is an electromagnetic field for communications. Did you try using the fob to push the start button? The manual shows to put the "S" on the fob right on the button.

Many of us have experienced the short halogen bulb life issue on the right side and are baffled as to why or what is the fix. If you're a little bit handy with tools, you can remove the bumper yourself so that you can pull the headlight assembly out a bit and change the bulb. It's not as bad as it seems. Here's a video that's pretty good.


The more permanent solution seems to be replacing the halogen bulbs with an HID kit. Also a pretty easy install.
2011 Kizashi SLS CVT (silver)
2005 Honda Odyssey
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Woodie
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I'm having trouble accepting the idea that you replaced six bulbs and ALL THREE on one side of the car have failed. Sure, it's possible, but the odds of that happening randomly are akin to winning the lottery. I'd be looking to find the ground connection for the wire bundle that goes to that light capsule. Unplug everything you can get your hands on on that side of the car, and reconnect it. It seems to me like a bad connection of some sort.
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Ronzuki
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AH-99 wrote:TO LPSISRL:
Thanks, I could get in via key of course, but couldn't start car, even when holding FOB right over Start button!
The FOBs should start the car with the FOB on the button, period. I don't think the FOBs are the problem if neither will start the car during these occurrences. You have some other sort of Ignition Control gremlin acting up. ALL of the cars Control Modules are connected in concert via a CAN bus. Body, Engine, Trans, Traction, Ignition...all of them. And, it is entirely plausible for one flakey/faulty module to negatively affect another. Even if both FOBs were bad (highly improbable), obtaining a new FOB that will work with the Kiz is only 1/2 the battle. You'd still need the service center to pair the FOBs to the car, via Suzuki equipment, since you apparently don't have completely problem-free locking and ignition systems. Although I can't speak with certainty or experience w/ the K and FOB pairing, usually, you need to have at least one known good and functioning FOB in order to perform a do-it-yourselfer pairing of a second virgin FOB.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
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