Hi Guys,
I've been away for a while but still have my 2012 AWD SLS. I got a new transmission at 96K which I can talk about if anyone is interested but the point of this post is about the sway bar. I believe the bushings are wearing out. I can tighten it down and it rides and sounds great for a week but then it starts knocking again. I found the OEM bushings at https://suzukicarparts.com/parts/2012/S ... eid=214820
but was wondering if these would fit and if they would be better or worse from advance.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/ene ... 6+brackets
Does anyone have experience with this?
Thanks,
Joe
sway bar
The rear bar on the AWD cars uses a 15mm bushing, the rear bar on the FWD car uses a 16mm bushing. You OEM link is for the FWD bushing which will be slightly too loose. The universal kit you linked to is a 25mm bushing which is far to large. It wasn't part of your question, but the front bar has its own bracket design and a universal bushing bracket won't work there.
Universal bushings w/ brackets will work fine on the rear, as I've got an RRM 19mm bar and use a MOOG universal bushing. However, 15mm universal bushings are hard to find, though you could get a 14mm (or 9/16") and carefully enlarge it slightly. Alternatively, you could acquire the bar (salvaged) from a FWD car, and use a universal 16mm bushing. This would likely stiffen up the handling slightly more than the stock 15mm bar, in addition to the improvement from the fresh bushings.
I would also suggest checking the sway bar end links to make sure that none of the joints have become work or loose.
Universal bushings w/ brackets will work fine on the rear, as I've got an RRM 19mm bar and use a MOOG universal bushing. However, 15mm universal bushings are hard to find, though you could get a 14mm (or 9/16") and carefully enlarge it slightly. Alternatively, you could acquire the bar (salvaged) from a FWD car, and use a universal 16mm bushing. This would likely stiffen up the handling slightly more than the stock 15mm bar, in addition to the improvement from the fresh bushings.
I would also suggest checking the sway bar end links to make sure that none of the joints have become work or loose.
Has anyone verified this with a caliper measuring tool? It makes little sense in my mind for a company to make two different products for a difference of just 1mm. I have a FWD Kizashi and my recollection is that the OE rear sway bar was 15mm. I've since upgraded to the RRM 19mm bar with Moog polyurethane bushings.bdleonard wrote:The rear bar on the AWD cars uses a 15mm bushing, the rear bar on the FWD car uses a 16mm bushing.
In my mind, the concern is not whether a 15 or 16mm bushing will fit the OE sway bar but whether the mounting bracket will be compatible with the mounting surface. Aftermarket bushings and brackets differ in total size despite the specified hole size so fitment can be an issue. For example, the RRM rear sway bar came with an enhanced mount for the bushings and bracket. However, when I upgraded the RRM bushings to the Moogs, the Moog bushings and bracket wouldn't fit on the RRM mount. I had to remove the mount from RRM to fit the Moog hardware directly on to the car.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
I'd like to hear that story if you don't mind. I have a 2013 AWD SLS with 77k on it now. We've had it for 5 years now, and while the car has been great, I feel I should start looking around for it's replacement while everything still works. It's really only the CVT that I'm concerned about. It's garage kept and in perfect shape, so I wouldn't mind keeping it a few years longer to ride the no car payment wave. I just don't want to own it when the CVT gives out.PittsburghJoe wrote:Hi Guys,
I've been away for a while but still have my 2012 AWD SLS. I got a new transmission at 96K which I can talk about if anyone is interested...
Was yours under warranty? If not, how much does a new Jatco cost these days? I'm also in southwest PA (Brownsville), and my local dealership is Autoland in Uniontown.
2017 Lexus IS350 F-Sport awd
2003 Tracker 4dr 2.0
2002 Corvette Z06
1968 Corvette 327
2003 Tracker 4dr 2.0
2002 Corvette Z06
1968 Corvette 327
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PittsburghJoe
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:55 pm
Hi Jeff,
So my "transmission" story:
At right around 96K I was getting gas about an hour away from home and when pulling out of the gas station the car lurched just a bit but then went back to normal. I drove the next 50 miles to home and just after going through the toll plaza (PA-76 and Rt. 8) I lost all power though the motor was still running.
After a restart it was more of the same. The motor started but no power to the wheels.
After a tow to my local mechanic (11PM at night BTW) I began thinking "this should be under warranty"
Another tow to the former Suzuki dealership, Ellis Suzuki in Butler. After a day or so they called and said it was indeed under warranty. They replaced it and Suzuki also paid to have some sort of new computer module installed that is supposed to ensure this won't happen again.
Various not covered parts and fluids cost me about $350 and I had to pay for a rental car for almost a month so that wasn't cheap but Suzuki paid for the CVT and the cpu upgrade.
Since then I've had no trouble and have my fingers crossed to get up to 200K at least. I'm at 111k now.
Good luck!
So my "transmission" story:
At right around 96K I was getting gas about an hour away from home and when pulling out of the gas station the car lurched just a bit but then went back to normal. I drove the next 50 miles to home and just after going through the toll plaza (PA-76 and Rt. 8) I lost all power though the motor was still running.
After a restart it was more of the same. The motor started but no power to the wheels.
After a tow to my local mechanic (11PM at night BTW) I began thinking "this should be under warranty"
Another tow to the former Suzuki dealership, Ellis Suzuki in Butler. After a day or so they called and said it was indeed under warranty. They replaced it and Suzuki also paid to have some sort of new computer module installed that is supposed to ensure this won't happen again.
Various not covered parts and fluids cost me about $350 and I had to pay for a rental car for almost a month so that wasn't cheap but Suzuki paid for the CVT and the cpu upgrade.
Since then I've had no trouble and have my fingers crossed to get up to 200K at least. I'm at 111k now.
Good luck!
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PittsburghJoe
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:55 pm
So in my continuing saga of rear suspension problems here is where I stand. I was able to order sway bar bushings from my local dealership for $15 ea. which is overpriced but I'm glad to be getting them. In the meantime I wedged a rubber hose washer in the worn out bushings to fill the gap. I know it's not ideal but its working and what else am I going to do since I can't get parts.
Now it gets worse. I kept hearing knocking sounds and upon further investigation my left rear shock has completely failed and is just flailing around beating everything up when I go over bumps. Upon removing it I realized the shock mount has broken is no longer exists other than the (2) 12 mm bolts that hold the wings of the fitting on and the wings of course.
I called my local dealer and they claim there is one in the country that they can get in a few days and Advance Auto will have new shocks for me in "less than a week" so in the meantime I guess I'm driving without a rear shock. I considered fabricating a pressure treated 2x2 in the position of the shock for temporary support but something in my head said not to. Do any of you guys have advice for the mean time? Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
Now it gets worse. I kept hearing knocking sounds and upon further investigation my left rear shock has completely failed and is just flailing around beating everything up when I go over bumps. Upon removing it I realized the shock mount has broken is no longer exists other than the (2) 12 mm bolts that hold the wings of the fitting on and the wings of course.
I called my local dealer and they claim there is one in the country that they can get in a few days and Advance Auto will have new shocks for me in "less than a week" so in the meantime I guess I'm driving without a rear shock. I considered fabricating a pressure treated 2x2 in the position of the shock for temporary support but something in my head said not to. Do any of you guys have advice for the mean time? Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
Speaking of defective transmission modules.... I just got a recall in the mail last week stating the transmission module could fail, causing my Kizashi to go into limp mode. So if I take it in, I'll get a new trans module.PittsburghJoe wrote:Hi Jeff,
So my "transmission" story:
At right around 96K I was getting gas about an hour away from home and when pulling out of the gas station the car lurched just a bit but then went back to normal. I drove the next 50 miles to home and just after going through the toll plaza (PA-76 and Rt. 8) I lost all power though the motor was still running.
After a restart it was more of the same. The motor started but no power to the wheels.
After a tow to my local mechanic (11PM at night BTW) I began thinking "this should be under warranty"
Another tow to the former Suzuki dealership, Ellis Suzuki in Butler. After a day or so they called and said it was indeed under warranty. They replaced it and Suzuki also paid to have some sort of new computer module installed that is supposed to ensure this won't happen again.
Various not covered parts and fluids cost me about $350 and I had to pay for a rental car for almost a month so that wasn't cheap but Suzuki paid for the CVT and the cpu upgrade.
Since then I've had no trouble and have my fingers crossed to get up to 200K at least. I'm at 111k now.
Good luck!
I gotta hand it to Suzuki. They're doing a better job supporting their products 5 years removed from the country than any GM product I've owned.
2017 Lexus IS350 F-Sport awd
2003 Tracker 4dr 2.0
2002 Corvette Z06
1968 Corvette 327
2003 Tracker 4dr 2.0
2002 Corvette Z06
1968 Corvette 327
Mine went at 76K however it was not a failure, just a progressively louder "whooshing" noise. When the mechanic dropped the pan he found metal shavings. A call to Suzuki resulted in an approved warranty replacement. The new tranny, brand new. was there in a day and another day to install it. They gave me a free rental and the whole ordeal cost less than a week and cost me $0.PittsburghJoe wrote:
So my "transmission" story:
At right around 96K I was getting gas about an hour away from home and when pulling out of the gas station the car lurched just a bit but then went back to normal. I drove the next 50 miles to home and just after going through the toll plaza (PA-76 and Rt. 8) I lost all power though the motor was still running.
After a restart it was more of the same. The motor started but no power to the wheels.
After a tow to my local mechanic (11PM at night BTW) I began thinking "this should be under warranty"
Another tow to the former Suzuki dealership, Ellis Suzuki in Butler. After a day or so they called and said it was indeed under warranty. They replaced it and Suzuki also paid to have some sort of new computer module installed that is supposed to ensure this won't happen again.
Various not covered parts and fluids cost me about $350 and I had to pay for a rental car for almost a month so that wasn't cheap but Suzuki paid for the CVT and the cpu upgrade.
Since then I've had no trouble and have my fingers crossed to get up to 200K at least. I'm at 111k now.
Good luck!
2011 Kizashi SLS CVT (silver)
2005 Honda Odyssey
Priors:
2009 Suzuki SX4 Cross AWD 5-speed Tech package (vapor metallic blue)
2005 Honda Odyssey
Priors:
2009 Suzuki SX4 Cross AWD 5-speed Tech package (vapor metallic blue)
Whatever happened with this Joe? I hope you got everything working again.PittsburghJoe wrote:So in my continuing saga of rear suspension problems here is where I stand. I was able to order sway bar bushings from my local dealership for $15 ea. which is overpriced but I'm glad to be getting them. In the meantime I wedged a rubber hose washer in the worn out bushings to fill the gap. I know it's not ideal but its working and what else am I going to do since I can't get parts.
Now it gets worse. I kept hearing knocking sounds and upon further investigation my left rear shock has completely failed and is just flailing around beating everything up when I go over bumps. Upon removing it I realized the shock mount has broken is no longer exists other than the (2) 12 mm bolts that hold the wings of the fitting on and the wings of course.
I called my local dealer and they claim there is one in the country that they can get in a few days and Advance Auto will have new shocks for me in "less than a week" so in the meantime I guess I'm driving without a rear shock. I considered fabricating a pressure treated 2x2 in the position of the shock for temporary support but something in my head said not to. Do any of you guys have advice for the mean time? Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
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PGHKizashi1
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2018 6:38 pm
Pittsburgh Joe, did you find that your knocking issue was the broken rear shock? I've got 60K on my 2012 GTS and I just replaced my rear shocks for the 2nd time about 6 months ago. The second replacement was because I assumed the infamous knocking issue was back; however, the problem persisted after they were replaced. I was going to tackle the sway bar bushings and links next and was thinking about ordering the links then cutting off the old ones on there now for troubleshooting purposes (do not really do much highway driving). I'm going to post a separate thread about this because I have some other concerns about the rear driveshafts.