Dead battery -locked out

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Bennysc1
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Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2018 10:21 pm

Hello:
I am new to this site but could use some assistance. I have a 2012 Kitzaski GTS. I decided to store it my garage for the winter months. This month I approached the and attempted to unlock the car with the remote. The light flickers but the door does not unlock. I pressed the button on the door handle and it to does not unlock the car. I them attempted to enter the truck and no success in accessing the trunk. My conclusion is that the battery is stone dead. I took the metal key out of the key fob and attempted to open the door manually. The key does turn left and right but does not unlock the door which is strange to me. Not sure if the key activates an electronic silanoid or the lock mechanism is mechanical. Any help in gaining access into the car would be helpful.
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KuroNekko
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Someone else had an experience exactly like this where the metal key did not unlock the car.
Did you try to replace the fob battery and see what happens with unlocking the car with the remote? It takes CR2032 batteries which are very common.
It's odd that the physical metal key is not working to unlock the car. Try turning it towards the rear of the car (unlock) further past a point where it seems to stop.

Lastly, when storing vehicles in a state of non-operation for a few months or longer, you should disconnect the battery of the vehicle by disconnecting the negative terminal to the battery. This prevents the parasitic drain of the battery over time which may cause these issues. If the car is stored in a private and secure location like one's home garage, I'd even leave the hood closed but not latched so I can reconnect the battery easily without getting in the vehicle first to prevent entry issues with a no-power vehicle.

Let us know what works. Good luck.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
DiggerDerrik
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2016 6:52 pm

When I replaced my battery I was genius enough to shut the doors while locked while the battery was out. The key inside the fob opened the door for me. Any chance you have a second fob you could try?
2016 Ford Explorer XLT Ecoboost
2010 Kizashi GTS FWD
2011 F-350 Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 6.7
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KuroNekko
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So I tested this out a few days ago. I didn't disconnect the battery, but wanted to get my familiar with the key operation. I inserted the metal physical key into the door lock. I turned it to the right towards the rear of the car. It turned easily and it sounded like it electronically unlocked the doors. I then turned it further to the right where it proceeded to turn more but with resistance. It seemed to engage a mechanical mechanism to unlock the driver's door. In essence, the lock seems to have a two-stage unlocking feature of the electronic and then the mechanical. My guess is that most people with key unlocking issues aren't turning it far enough to engage the mechanical lock.

On a side note, be careful when using the key. When I turned mine further to the right, I think the stress cracked the plastic around the key a bit. It's not a problem but there is a fracture now in the black plastic at the base of the metal key. It's easy to do now that the fob's older and worn.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
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Woodie
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KuroNekko wrote:So I tested this out a few days ago. I didn't disconnect the battery, but wanted to get my familiar with the key operation. I inserted the metal physical key into the door lock.

This should be done about once a year, for familiarity and for exercise. (of the lock mechanism silly, not exercise for you) :facepalm:

We use the remote all the time and when something goes wrong the mechanical bits are all glued together by dried out oil. Your five year old lock mechanisms have never moved once and have spent their whole life in the weather and dirt.
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OliverB
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The other day, I got about 7 notices such as check engine, disabled AWD, disabled slope assist, disabled traction control, etc. The car was parked for about 10 minutes with the engine off and the AC on. I checked the battery and noticed some corrosion on the positive terminal. I removed the battery out of the car to inspect it further/clean it and for whatever reason, I closed the hood. After putting the battery on the ground, I realized I shouldn't have done that and went for the driver's door handle. Locked. I took my physical key out and the plastic bit exploded. Now luckily, I have a sunroof so I was able to get back in the car and get the hood open again, but this physical key isn't opening anything ever again...
2007 SX4
2011 Kizashi
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KuroNekko
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OliverB wrote:The other day, I got about 7 notices such as check engine, disabled AWD, disabled slope assist, disabled traction control, etc. The car was parked for about 10 minutes with the engine off and the AC on. I checked the battery and noticed some corrosion on the positive terminal. I removed the battery out of the car to inspect it further/clean it and for whatever reason, I closed the hood. After putting the battery on the ground, I realized I shouldn't have done that and went for the driver's door handle. Locked. I took my physical key out and the plastic bit exploded. Now luckily, I have a sunroof so I was able to get back in the car and get the hood open again, but this physical key isn't opening anything ever again...
How old is your battery? Running the HVAC system without the engine on will drain an old battery quickly. Also, the AC doesn't actually work unless the engine is on. The AC's compressor is driven by the engine's belt which is powered by the engine crank pulley.
Also, all the lights coming on like that is common for modern cars with a battery too weak to start the car. It happened to me when my Kizashi's original battery died at a gas station. I jumped it, drove it, and got a new battery shortly after.
Sorry to hear about the plastic bit on your key. Mine just cracked a bit but I really wish they just made it metal like the key and the key loop on the fob. Also, the physical key is necessary to lock the glove box and the rear seats from folding down.
Lastly, just a tip: whenever I work on a car, I always roll down at least the driver's window half way. I do this as a preventative from locking myself out of a car and not being able to get in.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
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OliverB
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KuroNekko wrote:
OliverB wrote:The other day, I got about 7 notices such as check engine, disabled AWD, disabled slope assist, disabled traction control, etc. The car was parked for about 10 minutes with the engine off and the AC on. I checked the battery and noticed some corrosion on the positive terminal. I removed the battery out of the car to inspect it further/clean it and for whatever reason, I closed the hood. After putting the battery on the ground, I realized I shouldn't have done that and went for the driver's door handle. Locked. I took my physical key out and the plastic bit exploded. Now luckily, I have a sunroof so I was able to get back in the car and get the hood open again, but this physical key isn't opening anything ever again...
How old is your battery? Running the HVAC system without the engine on will drain an old battery quickly. Also, the AC doesn't actually work unless the engine is on. The AC's compressor is driven by the engine's belt which is powered by the engine crank pulley.
Also, all the lights coming on like that is common for modern cars with a battery too weak to start the car. It happened to me when my Kizashi's original battery died at a gas station. I jumped it, drove it, and got a new battery shortly after.
Sorry to hear about the plastic bit on your key. Mine just cracked a bit but I really wish they just made it metal like the key and the key loop on the fob. Also, the physical key is necessary to lock the glove box and the rear seats from folding down.
Lastly, just a tip: whenever I work on a car, I always roll down at least the driver's window half way. I do this as a preventative from locking myself out of a car and not being able to get in.
The mechanic that tested my battery claimed he's never seen a white non-oem battery, so the battery must have been just as old as the car. It had an output of 125 CCAs despite being rated for 700. Any cold morning would have left me stranded.

I didn't even know the rear seats could be locked into place. Any particular reason?
2007 SX4
2011 Kizashi
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KuroNekko
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OliverB wrote: The mechanic that tested my battery claimed he's never seen a white non-oem battery, so the battery must have been just as old as the car. It had an output of 125 CCAs despite being rated for 700. Any cold morning would have left me stranded.

I didn't even know the rear seats could be locked into place. Any particular reason?
Yeah, if it's white and is a brand starting with a "D", it's the original factory battery. Surprised it lasted this long.

The rear seat backs can lock into place in many cars to secure the trunk. It's the same reason why cars also have a trunk release cancel lever or button to disable the normal access to the trunk. The one for the Kizashi is a button in the glove box. The purpose is so you can lock someone out of your trunk, even a valet. You give the valet your fob but you keep the key. This way they can drive the vehicle but can't open the glove box or access the trunk. It's a security measure against theft and ideal for when you have to leave the vehicle with someone or somewhere for a while. Oddly, the Kizashi's mid section pass-through port doesn't have a lock like I've seen in other vehicles.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
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