Overheated!

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KuroNekko
Posts: 5172
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:08 pm
Location: California, USA

Yesterday, I overheated. I had to go to Hesperia (a high desert community in Southern California) for work which required a drive through the notorious Cajon Pass on the I-15. The Cajon Pass is a treacherous mountain segment of the I-15 between Las Vegas and Los Angeles, which itself is considered one of the most dangerous stretches of road in America. Source: https://magazine.northeast.aaa.com/dail ... n-america/
The Cajon Pass is a steep mountain climb/descent at almost 4000ft which has caused many accidents for cars, trucks, and freight trains. It was going up the Cajon Pass that I overheated. I smelled some coolant but initially figured it was another car as my coolant gauge stayed at the normal range and there were no obvious signs it was my Kizashi. After the climb, on a flat stretch of highway close to the offramp for my destination, I noticed the coolant temp gauge go up closer to the red zone as I smelled coolant again. I then exited and pulled into a gas station immediately to check it out. The coolant in the overflow reservoir was boiling violently, causing steam to come out of the tiny relief hole at the top. I let the engine cool down for about 10 minutes as I was only 3 minutes away from my destination and wanted to take care of my work matter before dealing with the overheat. After all, I had driven about an hour and a half for the task. I then drove the short remainder to the destination but watched the gauge rise up closer to the red zone again but never in it before stopping at my destination.

The engine didn't get much of a chance to cool down (ten minutes) before I drove it again a few minutes to a nearby Walmart so I could investigate the overheating issue and get some coolant. Once in the parking lot, I noticed that my green reservoir cap was missing (blown off from the boil-over pressure) and a lot of the coolant was sprayed over the engine from the fill hole of the reservoir. I let the engine cool down as I got some premixed blue coolant at Walmart. Given the windy conditions of the high desert at about 49F, it didn't take too long for the engine to cool down enough for me to start examining things more carefully.

I opened the pressurized radiator cap and noticed that it was broken inside. The part that contained the spring of the cap was cracked off and inside the fill neck of the radiator. It was apparent that the cap failure likely caused the system to depressurize thus overheat. Thankfully, I caught it and stopped before things got too bad. I was also lucky that next to the Walmart happened to be an O'Reilly's Auto Parts and they had an aftermarket Murray radiator cap for the Kizashi. I used my Leatherman tool to pull out the spring of the old cap in the fill neck of the radiator but the broken end piece of the cap could not be removed with the tools I had on hand. It also moved into the radiator beyond reach so it was going to stay inside for the time being. I filled the radiator (took half of the gallon jug) and installed the new pressurized radiator cap. I idled the engine and temps stabilized at normal operating range. Phew. I knew then I had a chance at making it home.

Given the scarcity of parts and mostly my OCD, I went looking for the green reservoir cap, retracing my short route since I last saw it at the gas station in case it fell out of the car. I was hoping to find the green cap on the side of the road but ultimately could not locate it. It's not an essential part but I still wanted to try find it before leaving the area as O'Reilly's had nothing that fit to replace it. I ended up leaving the un-capped reservoir empty for the drive back.

Thankfully, the drive back was mostly downhill at colder temps. In fact, the summit of the Cajon Pass was now cold and foggy thus cars descended slowly and carefully. I was able to make it home with no issues. Once home, I looked around for the reservoir cap on the splash guards under the engine but it was nowhere. I also checked the coolant level in the radiator and topped off, bleeding the system of air. It's apparent that the engine wasn't damaged from the overheat.

I'm going to try replace the reservoir cap so, Old Tech, if you have a spare one you can sell me, please let me know. I've also read here that someone used some sort of bottle or pill cap after losing theirs. I also recall that another member drilled a hole on the tab of the OE cap and tied a string to the neck of the reservoir so not to lose it in a boil-over. I see the wisdom in that now.
I also wonder about getting that broken piece of the old cap out of the radiator. I hope I don't have to end up removing the radiator and flushing it with water in reverse flow to remove the piece. I recall it was a plastic or rubber piece that contained a metal screw. There was just not enough space to take it out without special tools at the time due to the small clearance of the radiator fill neck.

So yeah, at 10 years/120,000 miles, it might be time to replace those original radiator caps. :oops:
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
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n8dogg
Posts: 216
Joined: Tue Jul 30, 2013 1:20 am

Crazy how the simplest part can cause so much damage. I too had overheating issues and wrote about it a few years ago. My replacement cap off the shelf from an auto parts store was no good! In fact, I ended up using a pressure test kit I previously purchased to test 3 caps before I found one that held proper pressure!
'12 Kizashi SLS AWD w/RF sound
easy to chip Vivid Red and 25% window tint
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183,xxx miles and still lovin it!
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KuroNekko
Posts: 5172
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:08 pm
Location: California, USA

n8dogg wrote: Tue Nov 29, 2022 9:44 pm Crazy how the simplest part can cause so much damage. I too had overheating issues and wrote about it a few years ago. My replacement cap off the shelf from an auto parts store was no good! In fact, I ended up using a pressure test kit I previously purchased to test 3 caps before I found one that held proper pressure!
I'm thankful that the $12 auto parts store radiator cap worked for me. That being said, I'm going to try source a new OE cap along with a thermostat in the near future.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
old tech
Posts: 706
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

The pieces of the failed cap still in radiator are harmless. I wouldnt go after them. The flow is from the engine to the top of radiator so the parts will get trapped in the top tank of the radiator.The cap falling apart is fairly common and is a silent and sneaky potential killer of the Kizashi along with the belt tensioner pulling belt out of alignment issue. PM me your address and Ill send you an orginal reservoir cap.
HSGill
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2022 9:15 am

Hi All,

Same happened with me. AC started playing up two weeks ago. It was not cooling. Eventually it started cooling by itself and then suddenly stopped. Then next week cap of coolant reservoir tank was missing and radiator cap was broken. I managed to take out the spring of the cap however something got into the radiator. Next morning the car got overheated after driving 10-15 kilometer on local road. I thought it happened due to missing cap of reservoir tank. I tried to get one from the dealership. Unfortunately, it was not available though its cost was $50 AUD. I ordered it and was told that i will get it on Wednesday. On Thursday i got one that of suzuki swift not. I kept driving it as the gauge was not showing that the car is heating up. Then last Saturday, it got overheated again on freeway and I had to stop for more than an hour. When I started driving it again, the engine stopped while giving way to other car. Luckily it started again. We stayed at our freind's place for 2.5 hours so that the car will cool down a bit more. Before starting driving it again i filled radiator and reservoir tank again. The car got overheated again after driving 15 kilometer. Today, it took it to the mechanic. on my way the engine stopped running by itself twice while waiting at red light. Worst part is that the mechanic is saying we need to replace the engine now. It is massive expense for me.

During all this the car never showed any warning light. Now, i do not know whether to replace engine or just dump the car.

In nutshell, If your Kizashi's AC is playing up, get it checked immediately before it leads to engine failure or seizure.
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SAEED_KIZZY
Posts: 510
Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2017 2:31 pm

as you all know there is a spring valve on the radiator cap calibrated for this engine so using an aftermarket cap could lead to further damage along the road.
NickL
Posts: 134
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2020 8:46 pm

Wow! Amazing how such a small piece of crap can cause so much damage and worries. If the Engine needs to be replaced or not you can find out only if you openl it and inspect the block for damages. Had similar problem with my Honda CIVIC 3 years ago. It was overhating and it dumped all the antifriz out in the engine bay. I was scared that the engine is damaged because the engine Block is made from aluminum, same as Kizashi. My mechanic change the radiator (because it was damaged), thermostat and cap and filled in the new Antifriz. I drove the car further without any issues for additional 10 000 miles and then traded it for Kizashi.

Where can we buy OEM radiator cap? Suzuki dealer must have it or am I wrong?
"The only real mistake is the one from which we learn nothing". H. Ford
old tech
Posts: 706
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

Toyota uses the same radiator cap manufacturer and the same pressure so if you really wanted an original cap you could get one from your Toyota dealer. There are many good aftermarket caps like Stant brand that would do the job just as well. I’m sure there are brands that are not so good also. There are different pressures and Kizashi has probably the highest pressure cap. On the reservoir, that cap isn’t on there to hold any pressure it’s just keeping Dirt out of there and splashes from coming out. I find a lot of cars with the cap off of a coolant gallon jug screwed on the top here and it works better than nothing . The original cap if you can even find one is a ridiculous price. With a cooling system in good condition, the reserve bottle is there to basically bleed all the air out of the system. As the vehicle warms up and the fluid expands, it pushes any air that would be in the very top of the system into the reservoir . A nice check that you can do to make sure your system is working properly it’s just after the vehicle is started a few minutes into the warm up the top radiator hose should be getting firm .


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KuroNekko
Posts: 5172
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:08 pm
Location: California, USA

old tech wrote: Wed Nov 30, 2022 4:40 am The pieces of the failed cap still in radiator are harmless. I wouldnt go after them. The flow is from the engine to the top of radiator so the parts will get trapped in the top tank of the radiator.The cap falling apart is fairly common and is a silent and sneaky potential killer of the Kizashi along with the belt tensioner pulling belt out of alignment issue. PM me your address and Ill send you an orginal reservoir cap.
Thank you! I will do so shortly. Thanks for also informing me that the small piece of the radiator cap will not be a problem for the cooling system. I also appreciate the tip about Toyota radiator caps. I'll likely source one of those if the size and pressure rating are the same.
SAEED_KIZZY wrote: Wed Nov 30, 2022 11:54 am as you all know there is a spring valve on the radiator cap calibrated for this engine so using an aftermarket cap could lead to further damage along the road.
Yeah, but ironically, it's the spring part of the cap that disintegrated and caused pressure failure. Nonetheless, failure at high mileage is expected of any radiator cap and I agree getting OE parts is ideal. My emergency replacement cap does not have a spring and you can tell the build quality is not like the OE part. However, it's working great for now and will be relegated to emergency back-up once I get an OE-style radiator cap (likely Toyota part per Old Tech's advice).
NickL wrote: Wed Nov 30, 2022 12:25 pm Where can we buy OEM radiator cap? Suzuki dealer must have it or am I wrong?
If your country has Suzuki dealers, the cap should be easy to obtain and relatively affordable. Unfortunately for Americans and Canadians, Suzuki Auto left our countries in 2012 so we haven't had dealerships for about a decade. We have to order OEM parts online, which are often marked up for OE Suzuki parts. I personally like discovering the same OE parts for other common cars so we can source them easier and far cheaper. For example, I discovered the Kizashi's OE fog light is the exact same as a 2011 Toyota Yaris made by OEM Valeo. This saved me a lot of money when I had to replace my shattered fog light years ago and it was a perfect fit. This is why when Old Tech claimed that Suzuki's OE radiator cap was the same as some Toyotas, it was a huge relief to know I can source what is likely the exact same part much easier than an OE Suzuki part.
HSGill wrote: Wed Nov 30, 2022 9:28 am Hi All,

Same happened with me. AC started playing up two weeks ago. It was not cooling. Eventually it started cooling by itself and then suddenly stopped. Then next week cap of coolant reservoir tank was missing and radiator cap was broken. I managed to take out the spring of the cap however something got into the radiator. Next morning the car got overheated after driving 10-15 kilometer on local road. I thought it happened due to missing cap of reservoir tank. I tried to get one from the dealership. Unfortunately, it was not available though its cost was $50 AUD. I ordered it and was told that i will get it on Wednesday. On Thursday i got one that of suzuki swift not. I kept driving it as the gauge was not showing that the car is heating up. Then last Saturday, it got overheated again on freeway and I had to stop for more than an hour. When I started driving it again, the engine stopped while giving way to other car. Luckily it started again. We stayed at our freind's place for 2.5 hours so that the car will cool down a bit more. Before starting driving it again i filled radiator and reservoir tank again. The car got overheated again after driving 15 kilometer. Today, it took it to the mechanic. on my way the engine stopped running by itself twice while waiting at red light. Worst part is that the mechanic is saying we need to replace the engine now. It is massive expense for me.

During all this the car never showed any warning light. Now, i do not know whether to replace engine or just dump the car.

In nutshell, If your Kizashi's AC is playing up, get it checked immediately before it leads to engine failure or seizure.
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Did you ever actually replace the radiator cap after you discovered it was broken? Also, if your AC stopped working, did you check the belt and the belt tensioner? In the overheats since, did it appear your head gasket was blown and there were some tell-tale signs like coolant in the oil?
If your engine is indeed a goner, that's a hard call. It sounds like you're in Australia where there are still Suzuki dealers. Personally for me in the US, if my engine was toast, I'd move on to another vehicle as the cost of fixing the vehicle would almost be near the total value of the car.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
kizzy1
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2014 12:53 pm

This is interesting as I am bringing my 2010 (108k miles) in to my mechanic to have the thermostat replaced on Monday. I had the coolant replaced at 90k miles and haven't had any issues but noticed during the worst of the winter last year (temps in single digits to below zero) the engine was taking a little longer to reach operating temperature than it used to (it has always heated up very quickly) and if left idling the temperature gauge would drop a bit although the heater seemed fine. As the car is over 12 years old I thought it a good idea to replace the thermostat just in case (also purchased a gallon of premix blue to "freshen it up" while he's at it). The reservoir is always at the same level (between the add and full mark) and I've never had a problem with the cooling system. Would it be a good idea to change out the radiator cap (oem) at this point? The car continues to run great and I'm trying to get a couple more years out of it if possible.
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