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Re: Kizashi Serpentine/ Accessory Belt Replacement

PostPosted:Wed Oct 04, 2017 3:01 pm
by LPSISRL
Thanks for this. I've been a bit worried about mine as I have more than 90K miles. I live in SE Virginia so the climate is hot in the summer but mild winters. Mine should be in pretty good shape. I bought both the tensioner and idler so when I replace the belt I will most likely replace them too.

Re: Kizashi Serpentine/ Accessory Belt Replacement

PostPosted:Sun Feb 10, 2019 5:14 pm
by rangerov49
Has anyone had to install the top idler? It looks like the engine needs to be lifted, as the bolt might frame out. Thoughts/insight appreciated!

Re: Kizashi Serpentine/ Accessory Belt Replacement

PostPosted:Wed Oct 23, 2019 3:57 pm
by dslatsh
...old thread but does anyone have an opinion on belt brand?

Re: Kizashi Serpentine/ Accessory Belt Replacement

PostPosted:Thu Oct 24, 2019 1:34 pm
by old tech
Its Bando 6pk1795 for the win at $16.49 shipped on Ebay

Re: Kizashi Serpentine/ Accessory Belt Replacement

PostPosted:Thu Oct 24, 2019 5:54 pm
by KuroNekko
old tech wrote:Its Bando 6pk1795 for the win at $16.49 shipped on Ebay


I also got a Bando belt on standby that I got on Rockauto. Bando is a Japanese OEM for belts and other rubber products.

Re: Kizashi Serpentine/ Accessory Belt Replacement

PostPosted:Sun Nov 24, 2019 4:09 pm
by KIZAWDinKC
I'll add my tiny bit of help for anyone that happens to be attempting to replace a serpentine belt. I did not need to replace the belt since it was already fairly new because I had the water pump replaced at a shop a little over a year ago. I just didn't want to monkey with trying to replace it on my own at that time. Recently though, I've been getting a 'clicky rattle' from that area where the belt is located. It's mostly quiet until the car is put into drive/reverse or the AC is turned on. I know it's coming from one of the pulleys, and was fairly certain it was an idler pulley. Yesterday, when I finally got the car jacked up with the front wheel off and the wheel well plastic guard removed, with the car running I could see the tensioner itself vibrating quite a bit and the noise seem to be coming straight from it. It's possible it could be coming from the harmonic balancer wheel, but the tensioner pulley was vibrating a lot and putting a screw driver on it, the chatter resonated through the screwdriver about the same as the 'clicky rattly' noise. I would expect a tensioner to vibrate/bounce a little, but I'm about 99% certain the noise is coming straight from it.

Unfortunately, after spending all afternoon messing with it, I decided to button everything back up. I was initially going to try to replace the idler pulley at the bottom, but I could only fit a flat wrench into that space of which started to round the bolt. Not sure if a ratchet of any kind can get in there. But when I decided to fire the car up and realized it was actually the tensioner pulley making the noise, I realized then that to just replace the pulley, the tensioner would have to be braced somehow so it wouldn't move while trying to break the bolt loose on that. And replacing the entire tensioner assembly itself doesn't look easy either as one of the two bolts to attach the assembly seems to be hidden up into the tight space where no tool can go. I decided to just put everything back together and decide whether I want to attempt replacing the tensioner pulley wheel itself, or just take it in. :evil: I think the car can be driven for a short number of days without the pulley failing completely, but whatever is rattling has got to be replaced soon.

I am no DIY mechanic, but occasionally I will do things myself. I want to keep this kiz running because I paid it off a long time ago and it's basically a free car for me to drive around as a daily 'drive to work beater'. If anyone is looking for a tool to rotate the tensioner to release tension from the belt, I used a long pole huskey ratchet that can be bought at home depot (Husky-3-8-in-Drive-100-Position-Extra-Long-Handle-Ratchet). Using a very short 15mm socket, I was barely able to get it in over the bolt on the tensioner, and then turn it all the way. The end of the pole was able to rest on the arm/frame area as shown in the photo. This freed my hands up, and since the tensioner was extended all the way, the belt came off EASY and went back on EASY. If I were to replace the belt itself, it would have been fairly easy with this tool. Beyond that, the only thing that looked accessible to replace myself was the alternator. The pulleys are in tight spaces unfortunately. But I decided to add these photos in case someone is attempting this or is needing to replace a belt. The husky tool made it super easy to get the belt on/off free up both hands while the long pole rested on the control arm.

I apologize for the long winded write-up, but if anyone on here has successfully DIY replaced an idler pulley, tensioner pulley or tensioner assembly, or anything that the serpentine belt wraps around, respond to this thread with the types of tools you used. Thanks.
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