Re: Engine and Transmission Assembly Removal for Head Gasket Replacement
Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 9:06 pm
Great! I'm glad it will help you.
I have a little over 3000 miles on it now and everything is working perfectly.
A couple of things I wanted to add to the thread:
The cooling system needs to be bled properly or it will over heat again when you go for your test drive. The easiest way I found to do this is to vent the system at the highest point. This point is that cap that blew off initially for me on the back side of the head. Remove this rubber acorn shaped cap by removing the hose clamp first. Then, fill the cooling system until coolant drains from the nipple where the cap was. Next, put the cap back on and top off the cooling system and fill the reservoir.
The second thing is regarding the torque converter. In the automatics, it's easier to leave the torque converter attached to the transmission rather than leave the torque converter on the flywheel like a clutch. To remove the converter while leaving it on the transmission, access the bolts via the hole where the starter used to be. Rotate the engine for each bolt and remove them until all the bolts are removed. The engine will easily disconnect from the transmission if everything else is disconnected and unbolted properly. If you do take the torque converter out of the transmission for some reason, there are three alignments that need to be made. The two tabs for the pump, the inner shaft, and the outer shaft. I recommend that you watch a video on youtube about how to install a torque converter prior to doing it. You can see where to access the torque converter bolts via the starter hole in the first photo of post #44272 on page 3.
Here are the two male ends of the splined shafts and the female side where the tabs will align for the pump. This is on the transmission. Here are the two female ends of the splined shafts and the male end of the tabs for the pump. This is the torque converter. That's about it. Hopefully, I get another 100k miles out of it now.
Joe
I have a little over 3000 miles on it now and everything is working perfectly.
A couple of things I wanted to add to the thread:
The cooling system needs to be bled properly or it will over heat again when you go for your test drive. The easiest way I found to do this is to vent the system at the highest point. This point is that cap that blew off initially for me on the back side of the head. Remove this rubber acorn shaped cap by removing the hose clamp first. Then, fill the cooling system until coolant drains from the nipple where the cap was. Next, put the cap back on and top off the cooling system and fill the reservoir.
The second thing is regarding the torque converter. In the automatics, it's easier to leave the torque converter attached to the transmission rather than leave the torque converter on the flywheel like a clutch. To remove the converter while leaving it on the transmission, access the bolts via the hole where the starter used to be. Rotate the engine for each bolt and remove them until all the bolts are removed. The engine will easily disconnect from the transmission if everything else is disconnected and unbolted properly. If you do take the torque converter out of the transmission for some reason, there are three alignments that need to be made. The two tabs for the pump, the inner shaft, and the outer shaft. I recommend that you watch a video on youtube about how to install a torque converter prior to doing it. You can see where to access the torque converter bolts via the starter hole in the first photo of post #44272 on page 3.
Here are the two male ends of the splined shafts and the female side where the tabs will align for the pump. This is on the transmission. Here are the two female ends of the splined shafts and the male end of the tabs for the pump. This is the torque converter. That's about it. Hopefully, I get another 100k miles out of it now.
Joe