CVT Fluid Drain and Fill w/ Filters Replacement

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old tech
Posts: 705
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

I think the change to the deeper pan for 2012 was just for handling complaints of noise and maybe a little better temperature control . I didn’t see any improvement in the life of the transmission,if anything , shorter maybe due to fit not tight as it had been in the 10 and 11s. I think as long as they got the transmission to outlast the warranty their job was done . If they wanted to lengthen the life of the transmission , what is really needed is a modification at the manufacture level for three balls in each channel of the primary like they use in the secondary pulley . More magnets in the rear of the pan and making customers aware that fluid changes are required . On the gasket issue, I’ve never run into a different bolt pattern . All jf011e s use the same parts with the exception of the gear ratios , torque converters , and cases . Swapping internals is done all the time since the primary must be made out of unobubtainion and has to be gotten used. Pan gaskets have been the same.


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Ronzuki
Posts: 2382
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

No boubt on the warranty thing...that had been discussed heavily. I still believe the newer ones are not holding up as long as the 2010's and early 11s is due to Jatco switching manufacture from Japan to elsewhere...Taiwan I believe it was. This is not an isolated issue in manufacturing. When FCA was ramping up production of the Pentastar engine in Mexico, all kinds of bad chit was happening. Sand remaining in the casting was a huge problem. QC for engines in good ole Mehico ain't was it was in the states. I can't imagine this situation isn't any different for transmissions in the far east.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
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Quimicax
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Mar 04, 2020 3:57 pm
Location: Dominican Republic

Once they talked about it here because some last longer than others, in other forums especially of mitsubishi and jeep people comment that they have their transmission running perfect even above 200k miles, but at the same time in nissan groups with many complaints and transmission changes with just 60,000 miles,
they are the same JF011E as OLDTECH said simply with different structures and parts, what I will never understand is that irregularity between those that stop working and those that continue to work
Kizashi GTS 2013 AWD
DRL Off / Foglights Without Headlights

Ford Explorer Sport 2013
350Rwhp

Nissan Xtrail 2017
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Ronzuki
Posts: 2382
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

Pan gasket differences then must be between brands of JF011Es...Nissan, Jeep, versus Kizashi. However, I could have sworn (98.5%) the parts manager at my zuk dealer many years ago, b4 zuk left the country, showed me 2 different gaskets along w/ the 2 different filters as we were discussing CVT maintenance. His comment to me was "I don't know why I have these things, the mechanics have never asked for the, no not once." No surprise I told him there's no maintenance schedule for the trans. "These are still the originals I received from the mandatory minimum stocking order we are required to have as servicing dealer. I'm sending them back since they never get used." Interesting aye?
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
hillboy73
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2020 4:02 am

I want to replace my fluid on my car. It's got 90k on it I'm not sure if it's ever been done. I thought about draining the pan, then refilling and driving it then draining again first. I dont know if it's the original Suzuko CVT fluid or not. I found some Castrol CVT that says Suzuki Green 1 compatible. Is it safe to mix the old and this new fluid? Or does anyone have any better fluid recommendations that isnt gonna cost a fortune? I typically drive a truck that I can roll around under, so if anyone has any tips for getting this thing in the air efficiently thatd be great too! Oh, and can someone point me in the direction of the right way to check the fluid?
old tech
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Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

Method for draining your CVT fluid is as follows; You should remove drain plug then re-insert and tighten it back up so you don’t forget it. Next remove the transmission pan bolts. Start with the back and work your way to the front leaving one or two bolts in the front letting the pan tip and drain out the back kind of slowly. After it’s done draining , remove the other two bolts and lower down gently so you can inspect the pan floor for debris. What you don’t want to see is silvery shards or chrome peelings. This would indicate the typical primary failure that begins to happen. The balls peel apart and then they break in half finishing off the primary variator at usually 120k without any servicing. Servicing does extend the transmissions life expectancy but really doesn’t make up for this unit being not strong enough for the Kizashi. In the next few weeks I hope to be posting a do it yourself repair on these but it is involved. While the pan as is off look at your filter screen make sure it’s clean. Clean your magnets add some magnets if you got them preferably to the rear of the pan where the debris is actually falling into. As far as fluid recommendations the Castrol CVT fluid is a good quality fluid however it is red in color. If I was to use this fluid in the transmission and it ended up failing at some point , I would get blamed for putting the wrong fluid in it so I steer clear of using anything but the right color fluid. I use Gulf Trans crest synthetic Cvt fluid. It is sold in a 6 gallon box. Buying fluid this way makes it much cheaper per quart and also no bottles to dispose of plus this stuff is very good quality fluid and doesn’t smell nearly as bad as some of the others. Valvoline brand is pretty common and fairly priced. As far as tips for lifting; Always use a good set of jack stands if you value your life. Lifted it shouldn’t look anything like thisImage


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hillboy73
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2020 4:02 am

Thanks for taking the time to write that. I ordered some Triax Syntron CVT after reading good reviews, and the price is great especially if you buy 12 quarts at a time. I found it on ebay for $75 for 12 quarts with free shipping! https://www.triaxlubricants.com/triax-s ... ion-fluid/ theres a link if you'd like to check it out. I hear you on wanting to use the right color fluid though! And this stuff isn't red, it's supposedly a clearish/light yellow. I can live with that. In terms of flushing though (the reason I bought 12 quarts), when I go to change the cooler filter, I saw a post saying the top is the line you remove and let the fluid run through into a container. But I think someone else said the bottom hose. Which is it?
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Ronzuki
Posts: 2382
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

Are you not replacing the cooler return cartridge filter? To get the cover off to access the filter you're likely going to have to remove both hoses so you can remove the cover bolts and get the cover out of the way in order to replace the cartridge filter.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
hillboy73
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2020 4:02 am

My plan is kind of a mix between another post I read and the directions you provided to achieve the best flush I can at once. I intend to disconnect the hoses from the cooler filter housing to open the system and let fluid drain into that pan that may be suspended by vacuum (if any). Drop the pan as you recommended, change that filter and do the required inspection/cleaning. Replace pan and fill. With an extension tube coming from the cooler housing return hose to a measured container, run the transmission to pump remaining system fluid out, adding as needed to provide a safe level of fluid in the transmission at all times. Then remove the cooler housing cover and replace the cartridge filter once the fluid coming out is satisfactory. Add fluid to recommended level, which from what I understand is just under full hot at idle in park at operating temp? My dipstick has circle holes in it, someone said theres a line? Or an TSB had a line shown maybe. Does this sound like a safe and effective order to do this?
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Ronzuki
Posts: 2382
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

I don't know how you would keep the level sufficient all the while you are pumping in order to not starve the pump (suck air) as the pan doesn't hold that much fluid in reality. Even if you only run the vehicle for a few seconds at a time between refills. Seems that could do more harm than good. That's where a closed loop BGE type of flushing system comes in handy. However, when I contacted ASMC many years ago, they weren't terribly excited about me using one of those systems as I recall. They never gave me any specific reason, only that it wasn't recommended as I recall. It maybe because of that cartridge filter being in there. Possibility of damaging it and forcing its bits into the transmission's internals?? I could envision that being a problem. The conventional ATs that I've had closed loop flushed didn't have cartridge filters.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
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