Kizashi Club

How did you remove the rear deck to get to the area for the subwoofer? Do you have any photos of step by step?
I have the S model, so I have to cut in the sub woofer, but I don't know how to remove the rear deck so I can cut the metal for the sub.

aerovette99 wrote:How did you remove the rear deck to get to the area for the subwoofer? Do you have any photos of step by step?
I have the S model, so I have to cut in the sub woofer, but I don't know how to remove the rear deck so I can cut the metal for the sub.

I followed instructions in the service manual to remove the partition trim I must say it is not an easy task.

A link would've been a bit more helpful. That reply wasn't much help. Thanks anyway

aerovette99 wrote:A link would've been a bit more helpful. That reply wasn't much help. Thanks anyway

sorry about that actually 3 days ago I remove partition trim for some wiring stuff in the back of my car next time I will take some pictures. but the best reference is always the service manual you can get more info at

https://www.kizashiclub.com/forum/viewt ... ual#p52453

if you add an amplifier to Kizashi without a Rockford amp you need to add a passive crossover to the front door speaker because there is only a pair of wire to drive both the woofer and tweeter
since there is no specification about Kizashi woofer and tweeter frequency response I use a simple JBL cross-over.

Today I upgraded my ATOTO headunit to JVC KW-M750BTM.
reasons:
1- Android Auto : build in AA with 1.5A USB charge.
2- Audio DSP: with my previous speaker upgrade really needed this feature
3- much better speed and stability

tasks needed to be done to install new HU:
1- create new wiring harness.
2- JVC headunit has 2 USB port one is connected to car OE USB port for cooldisk USB connector is different so I have to improvise. cut usb cable and solder new TYPE A USB connector to it. other USB cable goes to GLOW BOX to connect to phone for AA.
3- steering wheel wiring: Kizashi uses simple resistor array type steering wheel buttons the only thing I have to do is connecting steering wheel wires to provided cable in JVC package (JVC Call it Direct OE Connect Feature) so no need any adaptor just 3 wires:
KEY1,KEY2, GND
4- also mount my OE headunit frame I bought from megazip (73330-57L00-ZNF GARNISH,I/P CTR, Suzuki)

Nice work


Sent from my GM1910 using Tapatalk

Abdullah wrote: ↑Sat Feb 27, 2021 7:49 am Nice work


Sent from my GM1910 using Tapatalk

thanks

I decided to replace 12V power on the dashboard with a new OEM USB plug(SOCKET,USB, Suzuki 39105-57L00-000) because of 2 port USBs provided by the new head unit.
this way I can use one port for traditional USB storage and a second port for AndroidAuto or CarPlay.

time for sound dampening of the doors.
in order to get a better base and sound quality, I decided to use the sound damper material. I use damper from the Russian company STP.
1- open door panel
2- get rid of old plastic cover(thank god
3- add damper inside driver door and add acoustic damper on top of it. Kizashi already has 3 pieces of sound damper in place so I use then also and add new STP material to it for better results.
4- cover all holes in door.
5- remove old foam from door panel and add sound absorber.
6- add some vibration absorber on door plastic covers.