I am sorry if such a guide was already here, but I used a search engine and did not find such a thread. Today I wanted to replace FILTER FOR COOLER RETURN according to this guide:
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=4657&fbclid=IwAR29 ... 89acQgGv8w
but in shop they couldn't find the Housing O-ring and they won't have it until next week. Therefore, I thought that maybe together with this filter I would change the coolant because I have dirt in the tank.
Sure, replacing the coolant is probably simple, but I do not have a garage and I will exchange it in my friend garage, so once I take his garage, I would like to be sure that nothing will surprise me. Do you have any step-by-step instructions preferably with photos?
And the second question is FILTER FOR COOLER RETURN works on the same coolant as the engine, or does it have its own?
how to replace the coolant
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The cooler return filter referred to in the thread you attached (and other threads) is for filtering the CVT's fluid (your transmission's fluid, which is essentially an oil). The CVT fluid is pumped through its own, separate miniature radiator by the transmission (the 'cooler' mentioned in the CVT fluid change thread). Follow the small rubber hoses you'll need to remove from the CVT's filter cover. They'll lead to the CVT fluid's cooler located in front of the engine coolant (anti-freeze) radiator. Two very different things. Two very different fluids.
The transmission's fluid cooling system is completely, 100% independent from the engine's cooling system. DO NOT mix the two systems or their totally different fluids in any way. You WILL damage your engine, or transmission, or both. If you don't understand the differences explained here, seek help from someone who does.
The transmission's fluid cooling system is completely, 100% independent from the engine's cooling system. DO NOT mix the two systems or their totally different fluids in any way. You WILL damage your engine, or transmission, or both. If you don't understand the differences explained here, seek help from someone who does.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( sold)
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: Wed Jun 05, 2019 2:40 pm
Ok now I understand.
On YT I found guides on how to replace the coolant, so I will do both in one go.
Do I especially pay attention to something when replacing coolant in Kizashi?
On YT I found guides on how to replace the coolant, so I will do both in one go.
Do I especially pay attention to something when replacing coolant in Kizashi?
Trapped air pockets within any cooling system are no good. Some vehicles are worse than others as far as bleeding the air out of the system. If the trapped air pockets aren't removed, overheating can occur leading to problems. Haven't done the Kizashi yet, so I can't offer anything up specifically. Keep track of how much is drained out, and expect to put the same amount back in. If it won't take the same amount, you have air pockets. I keep the over-flow reservoir topped off w/ Suzuki OE blue coolant, so it never has an opportunity to draw air into the system, and that's about it.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( sold)