How to change Oil

[nytq]

Only reason I'm following the 7500 schedule is because of all the possible warranty repercussions. I would be using Mobile 1 extended life which goes for 15K, but even Mobile advised me not to if under warranty.

[SamirD]

This was the first writeup I saw on maintenance on the Kizashi before we bought it.

But now after owning the car and reading the service manuals, I noticed a step missing.

According to the service manuals, there's a gasket on the drain plug that needs to be replaced at each oil change. My Nissan has a similar 'crush washer' that is spec'd to be replaced each time. I've done it a time or two when it has seemed a little too crushed.

Has anyone looked into this for the Kizashi? What's the part number for that washer?

[Ronzuki]

I've had many cars over the years w/ those things. Never replaced one and never had any leaks either. If it's crushed to distortion, you (or someone else) were cranking too hard on it in the first place. I don't waste my time (or $) on replacing those things. Matter of fact, a couple oil changes ago the washer fell of the plug when it dropped in to the waste oil catch pan. Already had it full of new oil when I noticed the washer in the strainer. I left it off for that cycle and it still didn't leak.

[KuroNekko]

Not all oil drain bolt washers need to be replaced. It's pretty clear to tell the crush-type from the permanent. I've changed the oil in the Kizashi a few times and can say that it has the permanent type, not the crush. The crush type have a hollow space in them and that gets compressed when you tighten the drain bolt. Because of the compression, it needs to be replaced every time. My Subaru Impreza used this type and they can leak if you reuse them too many times. However, most cars now use the permanent type, including the Kizashi. I have absolutely no leaks from my Kizashi.

Below is what the Subaru crush-type washer looks like.



This is the Kizashi's:

[SamirD]

If it's crushed to distortion, you (or someone else) were cranking too hard on it in the first place.

I think it's supposed to distort. I only torque to spec, so that can't be it.

My thinking is that if this is the way they designed it, as long as it works that way in reality, it's probably something that needs to be changed.

[SamirD]

Even my Nissan's is a solid one like the Kizashi's in the lower picture. But it does distort, even with normal torquing. It's never leaked so I only replaced it once, and it was actually a pain to get off the plug. Once that one seated in, I never replaced it, but I do check it each time to make sure it's in good shape.

A friend of mine a long time ago picked up his Accord from walmart after an oil change. They overtorqued the drain plug and cracked the plastic washer. He had no oil in his engine when he got home.

Luckily, it was a 1992 Accord--one drain plug washer and some oil later, he never had an issue. But he did start changing his own oil.

[KuroNekko]

Even my Nissan's is a solid one like the Kizashi's in the lower picture. But it does distort, even with normal torquing. It's never leaked so I only replaced it once, and it was actually a pain to get off the plug. Once that one seated in, I never replaced it, but I do check it each time to make sure it's in good shape.

A friend of mine a long time ago picked up his Accord from walmart after an oil change. They overtorqued the drain plug and cracked the plastic washer. He had no oil in his engine when he got home.

Luckily, it was a 1992 Accord--one drain plug washer and some oil later, he never had an issue. But he did start changing his own oil.

I've heard horror story after horror story regarding places like Walmart and Jiffy Lube changing oil. If I did not do it myself, I'd take it to a dealership with a discount coupon or a trusty local mechanic. The idea of quick lube places that employ people who don't know and don't care about cars bothers me.
Changing it yourself is always best. Top quality control and for the price of a conventional oil change, you can use much better oil and filters.

[SamirD]

Changing it yourself is always best. Top quality control and for the price of a conventional oil change, you can use much better oil and filters.

I completely agree with you.

And this applies to more than just oil. At one point, I owned an auto parts distribution company. Do you know that the brake pads that most 'brake places' use is only $5 a set wholesale? $5! What type of braking can you expect to get for $5. Obviously it meets oem specs, but it still isn't the $25-35 wholesale cost that factory parts cost.

The same goes for almost any part obtained by independent repair shops--it's usually the cheapest part marked up to factory msrp. And the cheapest parts have definite quality differences. I've seen them since my company distributed mainly aftermarket parts and I got to compare them to the failed ones often.

Do it yourself when possible with the highest quality parts you can obtain, even performance parts since they are overbuilt compared to factory parts. You provide the labor, but if you do it right you won't have to do it again, and you save money.

[KuroNekko]

For sure, brakes are the biggest rip off. The parts for changing brakes are rather cheap. Even the best pads out there cost around $80 for cars like compacts and midsizes. Yet, when you pay a shop to change them, it's usually around $300 per axle.
It's all labor.

Plus, I like changing my own brakes and making sure to grease all the places adequately. This is why my brakes never squeal.

[SamirD]

Plus, I like changing my own brakes and making sure to grease all the places adequately. This is why my brakes never squeal.

Exactly! Lots of marques require that certain bolts be replaced, not reused. Caliper pins may get a certain type of grease as well as shims installed in the right order. Brakes are not a place to cut corners on labor or parts. And I've seen too many shops cut corners to feel safe letting anyone touch my brakes but me.