Removing L<-->R Adjusting Screw Cover on Headlight

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KuroNekko
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:08 pm
Location: California, USA

As many of you know, the Kizashi annoyingly features a plastic cover that blocks access to the adjusting screw for Right <--> Left adjustment of the headlight. The car has a plastic piece that sits on top of the screw to prevent one from adjusting it. It is believed Suzuki installed this part after adjusting the driver side headlight beam to go towards the passenger side, away from oncoming traffic. While this may be a considerate practice, it's quite annoying for the Kizashi driver because the headlight beam is offset by default. For people who drive on dark rural roads regularly, it takes a considerable amount of light away from the driver's side. I actually find it a little dangerous for the Kizashi driver as optimal light distribution is compromised.

Fortunately, there is a solution. I believe it's been done before by others, but I also removed the adjuster screw cover to have access to the adjusting screw.
I had to remove the headlight for a LED position bulb installation anyways so I thought to take care of this issue as well.

In case anyone is interested, here's how to do it (instead of drilling through the cover).

1) Remove the front bumper. It's true: to even replace the headlight bulbs, the bumper has to come off. This is the worst thing about the Kizashi it seems.

2) Remove the headlight. After taking off the bumper, remove the screws and the tab that hold the headlight to the car. Disconnect the single connector that connects the headlight wiring to the car. All bulbs are wired to the single connector instead of having a connector per bulb.

3) Once the headlight is removed, you will have the best access to the adjusting screw cover. It has many triangle patterns on it and is located between the low beam bulb and the turn signal bulb housing. Removing the headlight has this advantage: you have access to the back of the headlight and the screw cover.

4) Here's the trick on removing it: Pry it from the bottom side via the back of the headlight. Trying to use pliers on the top triangles will not work and the plastic will just break. Use a thin knife and push the blade into the back which has part of the cover exposed at the bottom. Insert the knife and then twist to pry open. The cover will pop out rather easily. Remove the cover.

5) Under the cover, there is the adjusting screw, much like the Up <--> Down adjuster.

6) Reconnect and re-install the headlights and bumper.

7) Adjust the headlight as desired against a wall with headlights on. Full tank of fuel and level surface is optimal.
Attachments
Remove the bumper and the headlights to have full access to the adjuster cover. Access to the rear of the headlights is key.
Remove the bumper and the headlights to have full access to the adjuster cover. Access to the rear of the headlights is key.
Remove the cover by prying at the bottom from the back where it is exposed. It pops off easily with no damage.
Remove the cover by prying at the bottom from the back where it is exposed. It pops off easily with no damage.
Removing the cover exposes the adjuster screw for access. The way it should have been from the start!
Removing the cover exposes the adjuster screw for access. The way it should have been from the start!
Headlights and bumper re-installed after<br />R&lt;--&gt; L adjuster screw cover removed. Adjuster screw fully accessible after headlight and bumper replaced.
Headlights and bumper re-installed after
R<--> L adjuster screw cover removed. Adjuster screw fully accessible after headlight and bumper replaced.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
Northernstar
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thanks for the write up!! this should be stickied!!:D
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Moto
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Already was. :)
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KuroNekko
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Tonight, I adjusted the driver side headlight for more optimum light distribution before driving home from work and... what a difference.
I suggest that if any of you are unhappy with the headlight output/pattern of the Kizashi, do what I did. The factory adjustment pretty much has both headlights overlap their beams on the passenger side.
I can see far better on the driver's side now that the beams are both straight ahead on their respective sides.

Next is to adjust the fog lights. I am not sure about all you guys, but my fog lights literally aim straight at the ground in front of the bumper and I don't even see the beam from the driver's seat. The previous owner had 2500K (yellow) HIDs installed for the fog lights so I am not sure if it was angled down by the installer or if it was factory set. It's possible the HIDs were for aesthetics/show and that it was angled down so it would not distract other drivers. I am one more for function and will restore their actual use.

Either way, when I took off the bumper, I saw that the factory fog light had a dial built in for vertical adjustment. It's rather well-designed. I plan to adjust the fog lights sometime soon (it will require getting under the car and removing some engine undercovers). Perhaps I will do a photo write-up for that as well.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
murcod
Posts: 2279
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 12:03 pm
Location: Australia

I was just checking the fluids on mine and had a look - the Aussie models don't appear to have the adjusters blocked off.
David
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delusional29
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:22 am

Thanks for this documentation. I'm going to get this corrected tomorrow while I have the bumper off.

Cheers!

DeLuSioNaL29
MrNWA
Posts: 104
Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 3:17 am

nice write up i need to do this mine just light up the side walk an i cant see shit on the highway also what HID kit did you use im gonna upgrade every month im blowing a bulb i think my subs are killing them from the dimming HID dont dim because of the cap in the module i just dont want a cheap kit that i have to keep replacing all the time
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KuroNekko
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MrNWA wrote:nice write up i need to do this mine just light up the side walk an i cant see shit on the highway also what HID kit did you use im gonna upgrade every month im blowing a bulb i think my subs are killing them from the dimming HID dont dim because of the cap in the module i just dont want a cheap kit that i have to keep replacing all the time
I have Morimotos and I later installed inline capacitors to stabilize the current.
Here's what I have:
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-s ... vqnLHpCiFU

I have a 35W ballast given these are more reliable with a longer bulb life than 55W which are intended for brighter output at the cost of longevity. 35W is more than adequate in urban and suburban areas. I'd consider 55W if I was in rural areas with little or no street lighting.
I have 5000K bulbs which now would be the 5500K in terms of closest match. I have the HD Relay which connects directly to the car battery. A Canbus relay isn't necessary for the Kizashi's low beams given our cars have no bulb outage warning for low beam bulbs. I have the anti-flicker capacitors. In fact, I had them before TRS started offering them because I had them custom-made for my LED kit. I installed them later on when my HID kit started occasionally flickering at idle. I strongly recommend them if you have other power-draining devices like the RF stereo or aftermarket sub, dash camera, multi-port chargers, etc. I have the standard mounts given carbon fiber ones are only for show and the ideal mounting locations aren't visible from the engine bay.

I've advocated for Morimotos from TheRetrofitSource for years here because of my good experience with their products and their excellent customer service.

Here's my write-up on installing the HID kit.
http://kizashiclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2861
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
MrNWA
Posts: 104
Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 3:17 am

thanks im in Calgary AB so the 35W will be fine for me ill deff need the anti flicker my 1000W 10s kill my car im gonna add some extra grounds too help as well 1 to the battery/chassis another to the altenator and 1 to the engin i have some 4 gauge left from another stereo i hooked up plus maybe ad a capacitor too
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