Kizashi Club

Your Kizashi Owners Club and Forum 

Where DIYs with photos live. Please start new topics in DIY section. Completed DIYs are moved here for clutter control and quicker reference.
 #28509  by SamirD
 Wed May 21, 2014 4:41 pm
KuroNekko wrote:Well, that's what the capacitors were for. Capacitors are like very very short-term batteries that charge up and output electricity quickly. However, the inline capacitors caused the DRLs to go to full high beam mode (or very close to it in output).
I always thought capacitors were better for the ampage rather than voltage? It seem to be the ampage that's pegging the lights to be on vs the voltage. And if it's a voltage drop, increasing the voltage without affecting the ampage might be the solution?
 #28719  by KuroNekko
 Tue May 27, 2014 5:14 am
SamirD wrote:
KuroNekko wrote:Well, that's what the capacitors were for. Capacitors are like very very short-term batteries that charge up and output electricity quickly. However, the inline capacitors caused the DRLs to go to full high beam mode (or very close to it in output).
I always thought capacitors were better for the ampage rather than voltage? It seem to be the ampage that's pegging the lights to be on vs the voltage. And if it's a voltage drop, increasing the voltage without affecting the ampage might be the solution?


The only solution I could think of for this would be to have a stronger car battery as the alternator itself did not power the LEDs at enough of a voltage at idle. However, it's not the Kizashi's fault as the LED kit wasn't designed for all kinds of DRL systems. I'm told they vary from car to car so the LEDs simply weren't compatible with the Kizashi's DRL operating voltage/pulse.
 #28720  by KuroNekko
 Tue May 27, 2014 5:27 am
I reluctantly removed the LED kit this weekend and re-installed my halogens for DRL/high beams. Despite the excellent performance and output, to resolve the DRL issue was too much of a pain. They were either flickering without the capacitors or on full power all the time with them. Neither was optimal so after contacting VLEDs about the issue, I decided to take them up on a full refund as the kit is simply not fully compatible with the Kizashi's DRL system.

That being said, I drove the Kizashi with the halogen high beams through the woods at night after re-installing them. They suck. Honestly, the LEDs were so much better even if they did not throw the light too well above the low beams. There is simply a huge difference in light output. I'm missing my LEDs already, however I decided to return them to keep options open for newer and more suitable products as a DRL/high beam upgrade.

For the time being, this project will come to a close, but I'll keep my eyes peeled when I'm in Japan the next time and will occasionally see what VLEDs is cooking up.
Overall, I must say that VLEDS is awesome to deal with and their product quality and performance was impressive. It's just a shame that it was not fully compatible with the Kizashi.
 #28745  by KuroNekko
 Tue May 27, 2014 7:28 pm
bootymac wrote:I wonder how the 65w Osrams light output would compare to the LEDs. Both are supposedly 2100 lumens.

Mine are arriving soon but I can only compare them to the stock bulbs


Definitely do a write-up on it. I'm very curious to see how these halogens perform. I'm also a bit concerned about heat given the thin headlight harness wires and the rather simple harness connector.
 #28782  by KuroNekko
 Wed May 28, 2014 6:08 pm
bootymac wrote:I'll try to take some comparison pictures if it's convenient. I'd rather not hang around dark alleys too long :P

Any advice on what settings to use on my SLR for accurate photos?


I don't have much technical info as I'm no photographer, but use the Nighttime mode and use a tripod or some kind of stable mount. Don't touch the camera when it takes the photo. The Nighttime mode uses a long shutter speed so any movement will blur the photo. I also use the time delay mode to avoid touching the camera as it takes the photo. I usually do a 3 second delay. I find that these techniques take the best nighttime photos short of setting more advanced parameters on the camera.
 #28821  by SamirD
 Thu May 29, 2014 2:20 am
KuroNekko wrote:I'm very curious to see how these halogens perform. I'm also a bit concerned about heat given the thin headlight harness wires and the rather simple harness connector.
I am too! Considering I haven't changed the driver's side bulb, I'm thinking about just upgrading the passenger side bulb.
 #28822  by SamirD
 Thu May 29, 2014 2:32 am
bootymac wrote:I'll try to take some comparison pictures if it's convenient. I'd rather not hang around dark alleys too long :P

Any advice on what settings to use on my SLR for accurate photos?
Get into darkness and then point your camera at the wall while the camera is on full automatic. Take a picture. The picture should be good.

Look at the picture in your camera and note the following settings:
ISO: (should be between 400-3200+)
Aperture: (should be between 2.0 and 8.0)
Shutter: (should be no less than 1/125)

Be sure to keep the zoom at the same place, preferably no zooming at all.

Use the Manual mode (usually M on the mode dial) to put these settings into the camera. You might find ISO buried in some menu. Depending on your camera, it may be buried deep (*cough* Nikon *cough*) or be fairly easy to find. Some cameras even have a button for it.

Once you have the settings in your camera, take the picture again. It should look the same as the first photo. Now, try putting on your fog lights and take a picture. You should see the increase in brightness.

The best way to do a comparison is to put one bulb in one side and one in the other. Otherwise, you'll have to change the bulbs and then take the same shot in the same darkness, at the same spot within the same timeframe to make sure environmental changes don't affect the photo.
 #28823  by SamirD
 Thu May 29, 2014 2:33 am
KuroNekko wrote:
bootymac wrote:I'll try to take some comparison pictures if it's convenient. I'd rather not hang around dark alleys too long :P

Any advice on what settings to use on my SLR for accurate photos?


I don't have much technical info as I'm no photographer, but use the Nighttime mode and use a tripod or some kind of stable mount. Don't touch the camera when it takes the photo. The Nighttime mode uses a long shutter speed so any movement will blur the photo. I also use the time delay mode to avoid touching the camera as it takes the photo. I usually do a 3 second delay. I find that these techniques take the best nighttime photos short of setting more advanced parameters on the camera.
Very good tips, although I would avoid modes as they try to automatically adjust the settings for an 'optimal' photo, which might also drown out any increase in light output.

Using manual settings with a tripod will result in great comparison shots. 8-)
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