How to install DRL/High Beam LED Conversion Kit

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KuroNekko
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~tc~ wrote:There is no reason to believe the area behind the SMD is what they are talking about - more likely the "end cap" which normally has at least some light output.
You mean the end of the bulb? That's irrelevant in light throw because the light needs to be emitted sideways for the reflector to bounce the beam and cast it out. The bulb design could have incorporated a LED at the end, but it would only create glare for oncoming traffic and not aid in light throw much at all. Remember, any type of light (halogen, HID, or LED) can't throw its beam well without a reflector. Without a reflector, they work like candles and emit undirected light everywhere.
This is also how lights and lasers differ and the reason why laser headlights are being developed as the next generation of headlights. Laser headlights would eliminate the need for reflectors and can accurately cast light only where needed and even be adaptive, changing light throw based on conditions such as oncoming traffic.

Given how light is reflected inside a headlight, the very SMD stem is what they are talking about and not the end cap. The end cap barely matters.
Keep in mind that halogens have this same issue and that's why many bulbs even have their ends painted and some headlights/fog lights even have bulb end caps. Both of the pictures below clearly demonstrate what I'm talking about in both the bulb and the headlight. This is for reducing glare.

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2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
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KuroNekko
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krell wrote:Found this on a car forum ....The flickering is caused by the very quick pulses the car sends to the headlights....I think. This is how the DRLs are only a percentage of the low beams. I am guessing because you have LEDs, they don't play nicely with the pulses. A few of us have upgraded headlight harnesses and a small capacitor in the harness fixed the pulsing that was making our relays buzz.
I contacted VLEDS and they pretty much said the same thing. The solution is a capacitor. However, they don't have a simple, clean solution right now. They don't offer something you can plug in with a harness, but offered to make some set-up with a capacitor to resolve the issue. I asked for the details on that.

Maybe I'll look into what you are talking about here: "A few of us have upgraded headlight harnesses and a small capacitor in the harness fixed the pulsing that was making our relays buzz."
That being said, it does not bother me that much because it only occurs when the car is idling. While running, they both stay on fine. High beams always work on demand. This makes me think that while idling, the alternator is not generating enough power to keep them on so they sometimes flicker. While running, the alternator is generating more power for the car including the LED bulbs.
This leads me to think that getting a better car battery with better electrical current may resolve the matter by boosting the current at idle.
I could be totally wrong as I'm no electrician and DRL voltage may not work this way, but it's from my observations that the DRLs only flicker when at idle. I've been checking the reflection of both DRLs from other cars, objects, etc. while the car is running and they stay on reliably.

I simply don't want to splice into any factory wiring. I don't mind a capacitor if it goes in an aftermarket harness that can be easily removed/replaced.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
murcod
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With the capacitor solution - wouldn't you end up with full intensity high beam being activated? (The whole purpose of the pulsed signal is to give a reduced light output. Even during the day, full high beam can be blinding to oncoming traffic.)

VLED's could modify their driver circuitry to recognise the pulsed voltage input and output a corresponding PWM signal to dim the LED's. (From your initial posts KuroNekko, that's what I thought the VLED's did do?)
David
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KuroNekko
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murcod wrote:With the capacitor solution - wouldn't you end up with full intensity high beam being activated? (The whole purpose of the pulsed signal is to give a reduced light output. Even during the day, full high beam can be blinding to oncoming traffic.)

VLED's could modify their driver circuitry to recognise the pulsed voltage input and output a corresponding PWM signal to dim the LED's. (From your initial posts KuroNekko, that's what I thought the VLED's did do?)
Good point about the capacitor causing high beam/full power. I have no idea if the capacitor will work that way in DRL mode and cause full power or if full power comes on only when the high beam is switched on. Regardless, I replied to VLED's email yesterday and asked a bunch of questions. They have yet to reply.

I also thought about looking around online for a short H7 harness with a built-in capacitor. I'm thinking they exist given there are people with HID kits who have DRLs.
I'm hoping it's a short harness only a few to several inches long that splices in a capacitor. Maybe that would work.

In all honestly, the issue does not bother me all that much because it rarely occurs. I just brought it up because LED conversion kits are new and I believe I'm the first guy on this forum with them. The flickering has never occurred while driving which leads me to think the alternator's power has something to do with it. As I've said, it only flickers when the car is idling meaning the alternator's output is lower and the battery's power is more relevant. My battery is the OEM battery and it's not at its peak. From what I know of how DRLs work, this should not matter, but my empirical observation is what it is: they only flicker at idle.

I know my DRLs work while the car is running because I park in an underground garage 4 levels down. I always check the reflection of both DRLs as I spiral up or down. They are always both on. On the road, I can see their reflection from bumpers, windows, etc. and they always work. It's really only at idle that they (usually only the RHS) haphazardly flicker off for a few to several seconds and come back on.

If I find the kind of short H7 harness with a capacitor I'm thinking about, I'll get it to try it. Heck, it may not even be hard to make it myself.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
murcod
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So do you currently get the lower intensity in the DRL mode- or is it the same as having high beam on?

(Putting the capacitor in will definitely result full high beam being switched on in DRL mode.)
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~tc~
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When they flicker, you should try revving up the engine and seeing if they stabilize. If so, it's definitely an alternator/battery issue.
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SamirD
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~tc~ wrote:When they flicker, you should try revving up the engine and seeing if they stabilize. If so, it's definitely an alternator/battery issue.
This is a good idea to try. I was also thinking you should check all your grounds to make sure they're good and solid. A not-so-great ground might also cause something like this. And if your car is anything like ours, there's tell-tale signs of slight corrosion around the grounds.
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KuroNekko
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murcod wrote:So do you currently get the lower intensity in the DRL mode- or is it the same as having high beam on?
(Putting the capacitor in will definitely result full high beam being switched on in DRL mode.)
DRLs are lower, Highs are full power.
Also, VLEDs got back to me and stated that they experienced the same issue as me when they installed the kit in an Acura with DRLs. They then installed a capacitor to stabilize DRL voltage and it worked. The capacitor stabilized DRL lights and did not cause it to go into full high beam mode. Full high beam works on demand. I believe the driver regulates this.
They stated they will be releasing the capacitor solution to customers very soon.
~tc~ wrote:When they flicker, you should try revving up the engine and seeing if they stabilize. If so, it's definitely an alternator/battery issue.
Oh I have. I guess I did not state that clearly before. It's definitely related to the current from the alternator. When the engine is revved, the lights stabilize. VLEDs even mentioned that the voltage is related to the alternator therefore the flickering only occurs when the car idles.
SamirD wrote:
~tc~ wrote:When they flicker, you should try revving up the engine and seeing if they stabilize. If so, it's definitely an alternator/battery issue.
This is a good idea to try. I was also thinking you should check all your grounds to make sure they're good and solid. A not-so-great ground might also cause something like this. And if your car is anything like ours, there's tell-tale signs of slight corrosion around the grounds.
My grounds are good. The car is in excellent condition. It's definitely related to lower voltage issues at idle. The capacitor should resolve it though I'm thinking a new high quality battery like an Optima should remedy the issue as well which is something I was going to get anyways in the future.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
murcod
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It's interesting they've said the capacitor works and keeps the lower intensity. You may find the results with the Kizashi may not be exactly the same, it will depend on how Suzuki have implemented the DRL intensity control.
David
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KuroNekko
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murcod wrote:It's interesting they've said the capacitor works and keeps the lower intensity. You may find the results with the Kizashi may not be exactly the same, it will depend on how Suzuki have implemented the DRL intensity control.
That's a possibility, but I'm inclined to think it will be similar to the Acura. VLEDs stated that the car was exhibiting exactly the same issue as my car and the capacitor stabilized the DRL voltage input without triggering the high beam light.
I'll wait and see what the solution looks like and how much it will cost. As I've stated, I'm not all that bothered by it given it does not occur too frequently and never when the engine's rpm is above idle.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
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