Kizashi Club

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Where DIYs with photos live. Please start new topics in DIY section. Completed DIYs are moved here for clutter control and quicker reference.
 #28189  by KuroNekko
 Thu May 15, 2014 5:12 pm
Good point about the single emitter, bootymac. Given LEDs are mounted on one side and the reflector was designed for a halogen bulb that emits light 360 degrees, this could make quite an impact to only have one emitter vs. two on the bulb.

What I'll do is email VLEDS again and ask if this new bulb is suitable as a high beam or if it was really intended just as a low beam. If it's a low beam only intended bulb, then I can expect it to not throw the light too well other than on the ground and it may be worse than the dual emitter set-up of my current CXA kit.

I like the look and output of LEDs, but their performance in halogen reflectors will always be compromised. You really need reflectors designed for the specific bulb type to get really good performance.
Part of me wants to bring this project to a close, put rubber caps on the drilled dust cap holes, and go back to halogens. However, I hate the yellowy DRL look and the white LEDs are so much better (when they work).
Compromises, compromises.

I'm also curious what the JDM has cooked up since I was last there. They always have some really interesting stuff even sold in stores that I don't even see online.
If the new MT-G2 bulbs aren't promising as a high beam, I may go back to my halogens until my next visit to Japan. Honestly, Japan is like a car enthusiast's heaven because they are meticulous about the little details, even in aftermarket mods and tuning.
 #28196  by KuroNekko
 Thu May 15, 2014 8:55 pm
bootymac wrote:Not sure if you have seen this but here's how VLEDs dealt with the flickering DRL on an IS

http://v-ledsblog.com/2010/11/03/2006-2 ... drl-guide/


I didn't see the blog entry before but I've seen their DRL modules and relays sold on their site. However, it isn't available for H7 applications. I'd have to do more research on it regardless.
That being said, as of right now, I'm more curious on beam pattern issues as the main factor between the current CXA vs. the new MT-G2 kit.
If I decide to keep the CXA kit, then I will worry more about stabilizing DRLs. I also wonder if getting a newer, stronger battery would also help stabilize the DRLs given that the alternator running at higher RPMs does just that.

Thanks for all the suggestions and info.
 #28210  by KuroNekko
 Thu May 15, 2014 9:51 pm
bootymac wrote:I wonder if you can just cut and solder in H7 connectors on the DRL module and relay...


I could probably just use connectors as these harnesses tend to be modular. Things clip on and off easily like my capacitor harness. However, I need to do more research as I don't want to waste more money.

I'll email VLEDS tonight about dual emitter vs. single emitter in terms of beam focus for high beam use. That's my main concern right now.
 #28238  by SamirD
 Fri May 16, 2014 2:29 pm
KuroNekko wrote:Part of me wants to bring this project to a close, put rubber caps on the drilled dust cap holes, and go back to halogens. However, I hate the yellowy DRL look and the white LEDs are so much better (when they work).
Compromises, compromises.
It may not do anything, but what about trying to ground the grounds better like bootymac did? It might just clear up the flickering issue. 8-)
 #28257  by KuroNekko
 Fri May 16, 2014 5:18 pm
SamirD wrote:
KuroNekko wrote:Part of me wants to bring this project to a close, put rubber caps on the drilled dust cap holes, and go back to halogens. However, I hate the yellowy DRL look and the white LEDs are so much better (when they work).
Compromises, compromises.
It may not do anything, but what about trying to ground the grounds better like bootymac did? It might just clear up the flickering issue. 8-)


I used the factory grounding location which was the same place I used for my HID harness. You can see them on either side in front of the engine. Bootymac's photos show the location as he grounded one of his new wires at the same place.
The grounding is fine. Before it wasn't and that's why the capacitors didn't work. Now, they are grounded well and the capacitors work... too well. They pretty much cause the LEDs to emit at full intensity in DRL mode. Now there is no output difference between DRL mode and high beam mode.
 #28273  by SamirD
 Fri May 16, 2014 9:12 pm
KuroNekko wrote:
SamirD wrote:
KuroNekko wrote:Part of me wants to bring this project to a close, put rubber caps on the drilled dust cap holes, and go back to halogens. However, I hate the yellowy DRL look and the white LEDs are so much better (when they work).
Compromises, compromises.
It may not do anything, but what about trying to ground the grounds better like bootymac did? It might just clear up the flickering issue. 8-)


I used the factory grounding location which was the same place I used for my HID harness. You can see them on either side in front of the engine. Bootymac's photos show the location as he grounded one of his new wires at the same place.
The grounding is fine. Before it wasn't and that's why the capacitors didn't work. Now, they are grounded well and the capacitors work... too well. They pretty much cause the LEDs to emit at full intensity in DRL mode. Now there is no output difference between DRL mode and high beam mode.
I didn't get across what I meant very well. :oops:

What I meant was to drop the additional grounding and capacitors and just improve the stock grounding points as that might help?
 #28276  by KuroNekko
 Fri May 16, 2014 9:36 pm
SamirD wrote:I didn't get across what I meant very well. :oops:

What I meant was to drop the additional grounding and capacitors and just improve the stock grounding points as that might help?


Oh. It may help, but it appears that the root of the flickering issue is the DRL voltage of the Kizashi and the operating voltage threshold of the LEDs before they flicker. The DRLs in halogens work by pulsating low voltage, but this can cause LEDs to flicker if they get lower in the voltage threshold. Improving the grounding may work, but given the Kizashi is a rather new vehicle, I have doubts it will really be a solution to this issue as the existing ground wires aren't really faulty to begin with.
 #28279  by bootymac
 Fri May 16, 2014 9:41 pm
Yeah, I don't think grounding is the issue either. The LEDs flicker because they react much faster to the pulsating voltage, whereas a halogen bulb would illuminate dimmer.

What confuses me is why the flickering only occured when it seemed like the alternator was not generating enough power...
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