Kizashi Club

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Where DIYs with photos live. Please start new topics in DIY section. Completed DIYs are moved here for clutter control and quicker reference.
 #28283  by KuroNekko
 Fri May 16, 2014 10:53 pm
VLEDS got back to me about whether the MT-G2 with the single emitter is suitable as a high beam-use bulb or whether it was intended as a low beam.
I was concerned because, as Bootymac pointed out, the single emitter could greatly diminish light throw given the LED is one-side mounted in the reflector.
Here's their response:

"The H7 MT-GT 2100LM single LED design is best for low beam headlight applications as the light shines up into the top of the reflector and down onto the road with a better cut off line so as not to create glare for oncoming traffic. This is not ideal for a high beam application.
Hope that answers your question."


So it appears that the dual emitter design of my current CXA is better as a high beam. With VLEDS confirming my fear, I will not likely go with the MT-G2 kit as I need some form of effective high beam.

The last question I asked them was regarding the DRL module and how that would work differently from inline capacitors to stabilize LED flickering in DRL mode given they are both designed for the same purpose.

Despite my issues with their products, I must say their customer support is really top-notch.
 #28299  by KuroNekko
 Sat May 17, 2014 4:21 pm
bootymac wrote:Very interested in their response. I'm hoping the DRL module is the solution as I want to see this work


Here it is. They got back to me last night about it:

"The DRL module is a voltage booster, you wouldn't want to use that. Besides it is not compatible with the high current draw of the CXA or MT-G2.

The capacitors will store power and release as needed. This store and release processed acts much like a pressure tank in a water system. It equalizes the output pressure from the pump. The end result with the capacitor is a steady output of current, but the voltage does not increase. The contestant current driver in the control box is trying to keep a steady supply of power to the LED, so between a certain voltage range the LED will operate at a fairly high output. At least this is what we've seen on our test bench.

I think what is happening on your car is the output voltage from the capacitor (the combined output from the DRL circuit) is within the normal operating voltage range for the LED driver, so there is not much of a visible difference between DRL and high beam modes. The only solution I can think of here is to install a resistor on the positive wire to drop the output voltage down enough to dim the bulbs, but not too far that it dims the high beams as well. Not sure what that value would be right now, but I'm sure with some time spent we could figure it out.

Every vehicle and or manufacture has a different type of DRL system. It's really hard for us to know exactly what is needed for every application out there, but we're doing our best to figure it all out.

Sorry for all the troubles here..."


So it appears that the MT-G2 alternative is not really going to be a suitable high beam and the current CXA kit is better as a high beam with the dual emitters. It also appears that the flickering can't be easily remedied with the CXA kit in the Kizashi. I don't want to bother having a resistor added to lower the input from the capacitors as this would still be trial-and-error kind of work.

Given that the flickering issue cannot be reliably resolved, I think I will reluctantly have to send the kit back for a refund and go back to halogens for the time being. Sigh.
As I've stated, one of the main reasons is because I'm curious what other options are out there such as in the JDM. Every time I go back, they always have some new thing out I've never seen before. I really like the VLEDS kit but given the flickering seen from the Kizashi's DRL system in addition to the LED bulbs being intended for low beam use, it's simply not an optimal system for my purposes.

That being said, I plan on keeping the inline capacitor harnesses as I purchased them separately and they may come in handy for some other projects down the road.
 #28316  by bootymac
 Sun May 18, 2014 12:31 am
Ah, that's a shame. At least they're willing to take the kit back and offer a refund. VLEDS has been great throughout this ordeal

Not sure if you're interested anymore but I came across the attached section in the service manual. It might help you figure out the required voltage or resistors in the future?
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 #28359  by KuroNekko
 Mon May 19, 2014 4:38 am
bootymac wrote:Ah, that's a shame. At least they're willing to take the kit back and offer a refund. VLEDS has been great throughout this ordeal

Not sure if you're interested anymore but I came across the attached section in the service manual. It might help you figure out the required voltage or resistors in the future?


Thanks. It may come in handy in the future. I still haven't removed the CXA kit yet as the VW bus sapped all of my time this weekend. Not 100% sure I want to return the LEDs yet. I will disconnect the capacitor harnesses and give it until next weekend to decide as the bulbs themselves are quite impressive. I don't actually want to give them up.
 #28365  by SamirD
 Mon May 19, 2014 5:17 am
KuroNekko wrote:
SamirD wrote:I didn't get across what I meant very well. :oops:

What I meant was to drop the additional grounding and capacitors and just improve the stock grounding points as that might help?


Oh. It may help, but it appears that the root of the flickering issue is the DRL voltage of the Kizashi and the operating voltage threshold of the LEDs before they flicker. The DRLs in halogens work by pulsating low voltage, but this can cause LEDs to flicker if they get lower in the voltage threshold. Improving the grounding may work, but given the Kizashi is a rather new vehicle, I have doubts it will really be a solution to this issue as the existing ground wires aren't really faulty to begin with.
Hmm...if this is a question of just a volt or two, is there a way to add a small battery inline without affecting the pulsing design?

I'm no electronics engineer, so forgive the post if it's complete nonsense. :oops:
 #28366  by SamirD
 Mon May 19, 2014 5:23 am
I think the LED look as drls is quite nice and was even in the back of my mind contemplating doing this if all the kinks worked out for you.

I'm sure there's a solution somewhere.

Where's Ronzuki? I know he knows electronics quite well. Maybe he can 'shed some light' on what's going on. 8-)

I know. Terrible pun. :mrgreen:
 #28382  by KuroNekko
 Mon May 19, 2014 6:01 am
SamirD wrote:
KuroNekko wrote:
SamirD wrote:I didn't get across what I meant very well. :oops:

What I meant was to drop the additional grounding and capacitors and just improve the stock grounding points as that might help?


Oh. It may help, but it appears that the root of the flickering issue is the DRL voltage of the Kizashi and the operating voltage threshold of the LEDs before they flicker. The DRLs in halogens work by pulsating low voltage, but this can cause LEDs to flicker if they get lower in the voltage threshold. Improving the grounding may work, but given the Kizashi is a rather new vehicle, I have doubts it will really be a solution to this issue as the existing ground wires aren't really faulty to begin with.
Hmm...if this is a question of just a volt or two, is there a way to add a small battery inline without affecting the pulsing design?

I'm no electronics engineer, so forgive the post if it's complete nonsense. :oops:


Well, that's what the capacitors were for. Capacitors are like very very short-term batteries that charge up and output electricity quickly. However, the inline capacitors caused the DRLs to go to full high beam mode (or very close to it in output).
 #28424  by Woodie
 Tue May 20, 2014 9:58 am
If you're otherwise happy with the lights, then just disable the DLR function.
 #28433  by KuroNekko
 Tue May 20, 2014 2:05 pm
Woodie wrote:If you're otherwise happy with the lights, then just disable the DLR function.


Yeah, but I actually like DRLs. Anything to keep me safer from the clueless zombies that are behind the wheel in Washington, DC.
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